Think these HID are worth $40?

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where did you guys mount the ballasts?

also, i think i have a grounding problem on my cruiser. the voltage drops significantly when i use anything electrical. will an HID kit draw more and exacerbate the problem?
Get your alternator and battery checked.

To check for grounding issues, use a booster cable and clamp one end to the neg terminal on your battery, and the other to the engine block and/or body. Or use an ohm meter to check for impedence between battery post and block or body.
 
An HID set will not draw more power.
 
BEWARE:

Beware of the kits you buy. I think it would be wise to have a sticky with HID kits listed and reviews. That would make things a bit more better when trying to find and buy a kit that is going to work and when broken has a warranty from a company that is actually going to back it up.


I purchased two kits from the same company named hid4u using a Xentech kit off ebay. I thought I did my homework but then after having some issues I found out I was taken. And it turns out Xentec aka Xentech are sold by the same company under different company names.
I bought these for my mercedes. I purchased some e-codes and bought two kits. A 6K H4 kit and a 3K H3. The H4's are bi-xenon. The H3's are yellow and used in my fog lamps.

I installed the H3's first. They turned on with a quick flash and then went on slow. Full light within 2 or 3 minutes. They fluttered some after wards. So I turned the engine on thinking maybe it needed more power. They still flickered. I was tired and it was late so I figured I would mess with them later.

Next day I installed the H4's. These had the lids that cover the lamps for hi and lo beams. Well the dam things would not switch to hi beams. Then it would only switch to hi on one side. Then it would get stuck in hi on one side and stay that way under I turned the vehicle off and let it sit for a spell. And they flutter bad on the right headlamp. It is like the bulb is just wiggling around inside the housing. But the engine is off so no vibrations to cause this. Sorta like when a house bulbs filiment is about go burn out and its just hanging there wiggling around.

I contacted the company and they told me to give them some info on the type of car these were going into and lamps used etc.... So far I have heard nothing back from them at all. I have tried to contact them over and over again with zero luck.

If I cant get a refund for the kits I am going to try and salvage what I can. Open and do what ever needs to be done to the ballasts. As well as upgrade the harness to my own liking. And by some quality bulbs.

I have recently come across some threads where people have been having the same issues with customer service from companies selling this kit.

I wanted to give everyone a heads up so they wont get screwed over like me and other people.
 
Bought some and installed some from ddm tuning went with the 35 w 6000k and they are hella bright. Way better than the stock ones. Just barely installed, I will keep you posted on durability. Thanks again.

Simple plug and play, where did you guys mount your boxes?

Does the vent hole go up or down?


Matt
 
If your going to buy cheap hids buy these: Apexcone Raptor HID Kit (35w or 55w): DDM Tuning - HID Kits, DEPO Lights, BMW Bumpers & Lighting

Even cheaper at $29 and a legitimate lifetime warranty. I have 2 kits on the land cruiser and they have been flawless for more than 7 months. I even use them in my hellas which come on and off multiple times during one night of driving.

A lot of guys run these in their offroad buggies and side by sides. These have a very good reputation in the Polaris RZR forums. Any light and balast that can survive on an ATV, and take the kind of abuse they are given by those machines in the desert should last a quite a while in an 80. Plus as stated, they have a lifetime warranty.

I purchased a set for my RZR, and the quality looks legit. I haven't had time to install them yet.
 
Yeah, you really can not beat the quality for the price.
 
I am so impressed i want to get a set also for my brights. Which color and size would work best for the brights and for fog or smog like condition in the 9006?>


THanks

Matt
 
I've been using the same 9006 4003K HID kit in my LC for over 2 years now (30 months to be exact). When I got mine, they were "cheap" at $70 (same ones now are $35 online) and there have been times I've been flashed, but for the most part I don't. This is with driving on the freeways and suburbs in LA county. But for reliabilty, they are still going strong and no discoloring or fading has happend.... they're still bright white just as they were on day 1.

I didn't bother changing out the high beams since I never use them. The HIDs are very bright to where if I pull up behind somebody at a stoplight, I can see my headlights blinding them in their left rearview mirror through their back window. I know it's too bright too look at (when my wife drives the truck and I'm in front of her in my other car), but as long as it doesn't cause any problems for me I'll keep using them since it lights up the road great at night. I'm using bright, bigger 194 bulbs in the corners so that kind of offsets the HID brightness just a bit.

One more thing to add. I tinted my windshield with 50% tint (not dark at all, but enough to reject a lot of heat when parked outside in the sun), but I did notice it being a little harder to see at night, even with the HIDs. IMO, using 50% tint on the windshield and HID's is still better visibility than halogen 9006 bulbs and no tint, but you can see a difference. I've gotten used to it now so it doesn't effect my driving at night.
 
I'm all for more lighting when I'm driving at night, but there are a couple things I disagree with here.

... The HIDs are very bright to where if I pull up behind somebody at a stoplight, I can see my headlights blinding them in their left rearview mirror through their back window. I know it's too bright too look at (when my wife drives the truck and I'm in front of her in my other car), but as long as it doesn't cause any problems for me I'll keep using them since it lights up the road great at night.

To me, that sounds like saying: "I like tailgating the cars in front of me on the highway, and as long as it doesn't cause any problems for me I'll keep doing it since it saves me .5 mpg." Just because you benefit from the extra light of the HIDs doesn't mean that it isn't having a negative impact on other people's driving when they are driving ahead of you or towards you. Theoretically I could mount a huge cargo ship spotlight on my hood and blast excessive amounts of light down the road at oncoming traffic, but blinding/irritating other drivers on the road is something I'd like to avoid since their screw-ups or distractions could end up killing me. There is a reason that there are laws and regulations about headlights, including retrofitting HIDs into light housings not designed for them, and it is usually to promote safe driving and prevent accidents and injuries (I'm paraphrasing here).

... IMO, using 50% tint on the windshield and HID's is still better visibility than halogen 9006 bulbs and no tint, but you can see a difference. I've gotten used to it now so it doesn't effect my driving at night.

Again, maybe better visibility to you, but I pity the poor bastard sharing the road with you.

I admit that the extra light from HID bulbs is appealing but it should not be at the expense of road safety IMO. I'm contemplating retrofitting my Hella 500s with an HID kit as I only use them off road or in concert with the highbeams on empty highways, but putting them into stock 80 series low beams seems like a bad idea to me. Just my opinion though.

:cheers:
 
Yeah, that sounds like the hid bulb is not agreeing with the halogen housing(ie its not the best idea to keep them in there IMO).

With the hid's in my depos there still is a pretty clean cutoff and I don't have the blinding people in there rear view mirrors issue. I've never been flashed either.
 
Just go for the 9006 low beams, I am sure running both high and low would generate too much heat and draw too much power.

I took out my high beams all together, eventually plan on adding some driving lights up front and when off roading I will have some on my roof rack.

thats not true if you go with 2 - 35watt 9006 and 9005 low beam units your still draw lower wattage than your factory bulbs at 50watt to 55watt
 
BEWARE:

Beware of the kits you buy. I think it would be wise to have a sticky with HID kits listed and reviews. That would make things a bit more better when trying to find and buy a kit that is going to work and when broken has a warranty from a company that is actually going to back it up.


I purchased two kits from the same company named hid4u using a Xentech kit off ebay. I thought I did my homework but then after having some issues I found out I was taken. And it turns out Xentec aka Xentech are sold by the same company under different company names.
I bought these for my mercedes. I purchased some e-codes and bought two kits. A 6K H4 kit and a 3K H3. The H4's are bi-xenon. The H3's are yellow and used in my fog lamps.

I installed the H3's first. They turned on with a quick flash and then went on slow. Full light within 2 or 3 minutes. They fluttered some after wards. So I turned the engine on thinking maybe it needed more power. They still flickered. I was tired and it was late so I figured I would mess with them later.

Next day I installed the H4's. These had the lids that cover the lamps for hi and lo beams. Well the dam things would not switch to hi beams. Then it would only switch to hi on one side. Then it would get stuck in hi on one side and stay that way under I turned the vehicle off and let it sit for a spell. And they flutter bad on the right headlamp. It is like the bulb is just wiggling around inside the housing. But the engine is off so no vibrations to cause this. Sorta like when a house bulbs filiment is about go burn out and its just hanging there wiggling around.

I contacted the company and they told me to give them some info on the type of car these were going into and lamps used etc.... So far I have heard nothing back from them at all. I have tried to contact them over and over again with zero luck.

If I cant get a refund for the kits I am going to try and salvage what I can. Open and do what ever needs to be done to the ballasts. As well as upgrade the harness to my own liking. And by some quality bulbs.

I have recently come across some threads where people have been having the same issues with customer service from companies selling this kit.

I wanted to give everyone a heads up so they wont get screwed over like me and other people.

flickering HID bulbs usually means 1) a bad ground connection 2) bad bulbs ... Did you try to make sure the grounding was proper ??? And as for you BiXenon or Hi/Lo HID's the wiring just need to be switch around in the plug into your factory headlight harness...

alittle back ground on my HID knowledge:
I have installed plenty of HID units and had them on every single one of my cars except for my beater. I've used HID kits since 1997, back when they were $600 for a set of low beams. I've also installed and trouble shoot alot of my friends HID units... I've installed HID kits on a bunch of FORD trucks and even had to trouble shoot them and modified the harness's for my friends truck. I had issues with DLR's on my friends Matrix and fixed the issue and wiring myself...
 
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I've had mine for a couple of weeks now, no issues. Takes about 10 seconds to warm up if that.

Haven't been flashed, getting a clean cutoff and a wider angle of visible light.

I haven't replaced my hi beams, been thinking of just putting in some Silverstars in there to semi-match the 6k color.

I have had friends pass me on the road and they have said while they are bright, they are no much more of an issue than someone with a newer vehicle with HID.
 
So, last night one of my ballasts failed :frown:

I emailed them last night and got this today.

Hello Eliot,

Please ship the defective ballast back to us. We will test it here and ship you the replacement ballast if it is indeed faulty.


Your RMA number is: xxxxxxxxx

Return Policy: Return & Warranty Policy

Please send your RMA item with the following filled out written or typed on a piece of paper, and inside your package or it will not be processed. Please ship it to:

DDM Returns:
RMA -
7171 Ronson Road Suite A
San Diego, CA, 92111

Order/invoice#
Name
Return address
Email
Phone#
Summary of problem and what do you want: exchange, refund, etc
Credit Card info: 16 digit card number & expiration date only


Why the hell would I put my credit card number inside a package? And I wasn't under the assumption that I had to pay to ship it back to them.

Eh, thankfully I have a extra ballast(off my hellas) that I can use till the replacement comes.
 
for those using ddms, i just got a set in, only bought for the low side and haven't had time to look at them real well but what's the second harness off the balast for? they talk about a switching box, which i would think would be on a dual headlight setup, not quad headlight?
 
for those using ddms, i just got a set in, only bought for the low side and haven't had time to look at them real well but what's the second harness off the balast for? they talk about a switching box, which i would think would be on a dual headlight setup, not quad headlight?

What bulb type did you get?
 
No, like H4, 9006, ect.
 

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