Thermostat Install FZJ80

[Cruzerman]

I don't use the petcock for draining the radiator. These have been known to break off, can be stubborn, and slow. Instead, I just pull the lower hose.

 

[ItsBavid]

Just don't grab the bypass sleeve and rock it back and forth or try to twist it. I used electrical tape to pad the jaws on a small pair of vise grips then used a screwdriver and a small pry bar to lever the sleeve straight up out of it's bore. Put the tool underneath the jaws of whatever you use to grip it with and pry upward. Once it starts to move....you'll be fine.

I've seen folks completely mangle the sleeve and then need to replace it. It isn't expensive...but probably not immediately available at your Toyota dealership either.

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Awesome man! Thanks for the tips.

I don't use the petcock for draining the radiator. These have been known to break off, can be stubborn, and slow. Instead, I just pull the lower hose.

That's what I typically do as well but I found that it creates a bigger mess compared to using the petcock. Using the lower radiator hose drains the coolant way faster though

 

[ItsBavid]

This is everything you'll need.
1) 3 Toyota O-Rings: 90301-29006
2) 13mm drive with an extension on your ratchet
3) Flat head screwdriver
4) Pliars
5) Electrical tape
6) Swear jar

First wrap all of your tools with electrical tape that you're gonna use to extract this pipe out with. It will easily get torn up (marred ?) if you use anything metal. Our fellow brother posted a picture of the part number above if you go King Kong on this thing out of frustration.

1) grab your ratchet with the extension and take off the two bolts.

2) once the bolts are out you just pull the housing straight up. There will be some resistance but it's not on there tight. Take the O-Ring off and put the new one on.

3) next grab your swear jar and the pliars and flat head screwdriver that you wrapped electrical tape around. It's in a very tight spot, hence why it's so hard to get the bloody thing out. I found it easier to take the top O-Ring off of the sleeve before pulling this thing out (to be honest I gave up and never got it out but I'm just gonna keep going along with this as if I succeeded)

4) wow you did it. Now put the new O-Rings on this SOB and put it back into place

5) attach the housing and button her up. I noticed there was a little space at the bottom of the housing but after comparing the before/after pics it was the same. Plus there are no leaks. I also used a river mallet and the handle of my long needle nose pliars to put it into place.

6) slowly add coolant while looking at the amazing job you did, or lack there of if there's leaking.

7) high five yourself for doing a very simple yet extremely frustrating job. You're finished.

 

[luxes]

So, I was prepared to go all 'King Kong" on the bypass sleeve. The bypass sleeve really wants to come straight out. The problem with the screwdriver is it lifts from one side and causes to the bypass sleeve to bind in the pipe (it "racks" and bites into the walls of the pipe), really you would want to lever on opposing sides of the bypass sleeve with 2 screwdrivers but there is simply not enough room in there for that. So, I simply placed the handle of a small hammer (sometimes you do have to use a hammer.....) to pull the bypass sleeve back into alignment while levering with the screwdriver, it popped out with very little force. You should not have to use a lot of force with your screwdriver, that's when you will mess up the bypass sleeve and potentially the o-ring surface. Hope that made sense and helps someone out.

 

[huntercruz]

Here is the o-ring size of the toyota part number 90301-29006

30mm inside diameter
3mm width

I suggest FFKM o-ring material for compatibility with engine coolant and high temps or the toyota part.

I used EPDM in a scenario where i could not get the toyota part and ended up having to do the job again (got me home though, as landcruisers do)