I don't have shielding gas yet so I'm using flux core.
The welders thread (1 Viewer)
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I don't have shielding gas yet so I'm using flux core.
It's not got a nozzle on it, it's set up for flux core. I think the black "nozzle" is just a cover to protect the threads for the nozzle when converted to use gas.
Thanks, that is the idea. To keep it stock looking, but functional. I am going to start building a bumper for my wife's 82 pickup next week. That one should be a lot more complicated!
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
Ahhhh, that makes sense.
Today I got the bumper mocked up, and started welding on the brackets to mount the bumper too.
And welded on 1/4 plate onto the bumper. This will give me enough material to drill and tap for the bolts.
And got it test fitted. Pretty happy so far.
I also found a 8274 semi locally, a few hours away, but doable. Won't be able to get it until next weekend, but it's OK. I can wait to finish mounting the bumper now until everything is done. I would much rather have it DONE then have it half done until I buy a winch.
And welded on 1/4 plate onto the bumper. This will give me enough material to drill and tap for the bolts.
And got it test fitted. Pretty happy so far.
I also found a 8274 semi locally, a few hours away, but doable. Won't be able to get it until next weekend, but it's OK. I can wait to finish mounting the bumper now until everything is done. I would much rather have it DONE then have it half done until I buy a winch.
47coeman
Love those 45's
Looks good, even better when you get the 8274 on good luck. Need to get over your way and check it out. Best
Just ordered a Miller 211 mig welder. Should be picking up friday. Can't wait to get started.
You're going to love it, I guarantee it.
Here it finally is. Played a little with 1/8 inch and worked really well.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
FYI, it is better to tape cardboard than to try to weld it, it just burns. 
Many people like the look of that "stepped weld" but the truth behind it is that between each of those spots where you stop to build a dime, is a quick pass without full penetration.
Second pic looks like very good heat and consistent travel speed, nice even bead!
Many people like the look of that "stepped weld" but the truth behind it is that between each of those spots where you stop to build a dime, is a quick pass without full penetration.
Second pic looks like very good heat and consistent travel speed, nice even bead!
Nice work Trey.
Did you get it from Benton's Welding Supply in Covington? It is owned by a MUD member Sidney Benton.
I got it from a local air gas here in Thomasville. Got a spool gun to play with some aluminum this weekend, we will see how that goes. One of the guys at air gas has a four runner and has been checking out my cruiser haha. I told him about mud. Next project is a roof rack. Not sure if I want to make it out of steel or try aluminum. We'll see how much I like the spool gun. I'll have to check out the place in Covington if I'm ever there, thanks for the tip.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
Buy a stainless steel wire brush, and clean the snot out of the aluminum before you try to weld it. It should be very shiny. And make sure you have the polarity set for aluminum. What alloy is the aluminum, and the wire you have? (6061 aluminum?). Be sure you have the right filler metal (wire) for the series of aluminum you are welding. 5356 wire is good. (I prefer it to 4043)
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Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi all,
Been working on a set of "tube fenders" for my FJ40.
Sheet metal welding is hard! Definite learning curve involved!!
Regards,
Alan
Been working on a set of "tube fenders" for my FJ40.
Sheet metal welding is hard! Definite learning curve involved!!
Regards,
Alan
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
Two methods to make it easier...Hi all,
Been working on a set of "tube fenders" for my FJ40.
Sheet metal welding is hard! Definite learning curve involved!!
Regards,
Alan
1)Don't try to run beads, just spot it all together.
2)If you want to run longer beads, focus the arc 95% on the tube (it's thicker and can take the heat) just melt the edge of the sheet metal with the edge of the puddle, that way it won't disintegrate. Don't make long passes, or it will warp from the heat. Be sure to start with a tack every inch or two, then fill in the spaces between...
I gotta ask: if you're right-handed and you drag the bead to the right with the usual angle to the gun, where the heck do you keep your head for horizontal MIG or flux-core welding? Left where it's most comfortable but I can't see where I'm going, Right where you need some serious neck yoga skills, 12 oclock where it's just weird? Aaargh! Where for crying out loud...?
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
Um, unless you're stick welding, you shouldn't be dragging, you should be pushing.... So... Right handed, you should be travelling from right to left, with the gun pointing to the left, with your head on the left, ahead of where you are welding....
*edit - sorry, I missed the "flux cored" part.... Uh.... Don't use flux cored?
For regular mig, just push it.
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