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You planning on those shocks doing anything in the rear??

Just like Mookie, I am curious about your suspension numbers. 1 deg squat????

I am also curious on the linkage. I am more concerned about some of the structure you've built. It looks like you chopped the frame and used the original rear piece to box it. I would be concerned about the strength, maybe fine, but wouldn't have been my choice. Most the bends look poor, they look like they are kinked. If left like that, it needs some serious gussets, I mean kinks are no good, neither are the butt welded angles I saw. It could fail, and collapse, in a roll over or from anything really. I might be wrong about kinks, thats what it looks like in the photos.

The shocks are definitely on steep compounded angles, you should be aware of a loss in efficiency. For every inch of actual travel, you will use less than an inch of the actual shock. Makes for big travel, but I can't say how well it will work. My set up is on a similar sort of angles, I took a risk, and am doing a little experimenting there. I've planned from the start to redo the mounting if it sucks. I was really wanting to save the tub on my cruiser and wanted to try it first before I cut out the floor. It seems to work, I got my ride height correct, but needs more testing. I am still optimistic, but it may get redone. In your case I would consider at least adding some additional points for mounting. No reason not too, you have any option you want.
 
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I'm also really concerned about those shock mounts.

The angles are severe. Also, the tabs look tiny on the frame end. I can't see what you did on the axle.

The entire weight of the vehicle is carried on the coilover mounting tabs. Every time you take a hit to the suspension, you get the weight PLUS a shock load. Think about it.

Most people run their shock mounts off of the equivalent of your hip-height tube. Even if you have to bump-stop the center section down to keep it out of the chassis, you still might want some uptravel on the sides to accomodate twist.

As it is, your axle looks like it's at a good ride height and it's already maxed on up travel.

What size/wall thickness tube is that? I see the kinking too. It's the top tube bend where the angle drops to the rear. That looks like it was done with one of those Harbor Freight bottle jack benders.

Think about kinked tube as "already failing".
 
any updates? don't get mad, nobody is flaming you....folks on here are just trying to help you and keep you from having to go back and re-do stuff later on...it's way easier to fix things now

and your build is potentially bad-fawking-ass, not many 40's out there with a big block and two steering rocks..... i want you to go out and make a bunch of jeeps look like the dog**** that they truly are
 
just got back from offshore, i have got to work on the cruiser a little. Its on its wheels. I will post some pics soon.
 
Sorry! I have been busy, still havent finished but here is what I have

Changed the front set up to a three link with panhard bar. Still havent put the engine, transmission, of doubler set up in. Got a ORD doubler (203-205) with triple sticks and shaved the shift rail. Line locks front and rear. TH400 with TCI HD rebuild kit and reverse manual shift pattern, and Art Carr shifter. I still have a little tube work left. Boat sided with 1/4" plate and 1/4" 2x2 angle.
IMG_0021 1.webp
 
From what it looks like, your rear anti-squat could be in the range of 200-300%:wrench:

The rear lowers need to be dropped or your rig will have tons of rear articulation steer and horrible body sway. It will also kill the ability for the truck to climb.

Try the 4 link calc and get in the range of 50-80% inti squat
98% of comp buggies and pro bult trail rigs go for that number!

my 2c

Justin
 
Mount the coilovers about 8-12" higher to lessen the angle of the links. It will help handling greatly and not be as top heavy. Looks good otherwise.
 

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