Builds The Green Bastard

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Using a clean section of fuel line, I attempted EC -> 1.0 -> 10(a) from the FSM for the charcoal can test.
Depending on who you ask, us humans can produce between 1 and 2 PSI (or more, dunno) it did not pass that, will try the other steps tomorrow.
(I dont have a regulator that goes down to 1 PSI)
Re-located the front diff breather since the line for it was more or less mush.
Fuel line is expensive now :( Gates 1/4 is $3/foot
If you can not detect air flowing from the purge pipe when you blow into the tank pipe ( on the filter) then it means your check valve is blocked. You can attempt to blow it clear with compressed air or you could follow the thread that @LandCruiserPhil started regarding how to remove the check valve. This process will not suit every one but I have used it now on 3 different vehicles and it is a winner every time.

I put an end to my Charcoal Canister problems for good! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/i-put-an-end-to-my-charcoal-canister-problems-for-good.958684/
 
Those fusible links are really hard to come by :(
Wits end does not have them, local dealership sent an email saying there was no ETA on my order, partsouq has none, got fortunate and found a seller on ebay with some, so those are now on the way.
 
Those fusible links are really hard to come by :(
Wits end does not have them, local dealership sent an email saying there was no ETA on my order, partsouq has none, got fortunate and found a seller on ebay with some, so those are now on the way.
Link ?
 
Check McGeorge for the links. A friend got a set last week from them.
 
Results are
inconclusive.

I followed the coloring book for land cruiser enthusiasts (FSM).
Ran all of the tests, and the results were different from when I just did a little quick test while the charcoal can on the car a few days ago.
I followed the clean out procedure, and will run the OEM filter for a bit, and see if the gas tank hissing comes back.


Also started on trying to resolve the courtesy light on one of the doors not coming on, attempted to disconnect the wire from it's connector (behind the seatbelt, in 2nd row)
Might try this out when it is not raining and see if cleaning it works.
 
Getting closer on doing a coolant flush, replacing various sad looking hoses that are part of the heater system, cooling system, ETC.

Are thermostats considered to be wear items? I checked the FSM's maintinence section, and it was not called out there, in the engine cooling section it just said to test the thermostat, and replace if needed.

My assumption based on the rust accumulating on the clamps is that they have never been changed, and should all be replaced at 211K miles
Also doing the heater control valve, that was the primary reason for all of this :)

The previous owner was nice enough to replace all of the big radiator hoses with the Toyota ones.

Probably will do a pesky heater hose bypass as well, upon reading some threads.
 
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Did some digging around in the Electrical Wiring Diagram to figure out how to correctly wire in the Dobinsons bumper lights:
More details here:
 
Question about ground testing in the cabin.
I am trying to run down the whirring / spark / engine noises that come through the speakers.

I reviewed the EWD, and found the 2 ground points that the radio might use (behind the kick panels)

I found page 178 in the EWD has this section:
1644505034626.png


Based on service hint S-15, would I want to find pin 3 in the stereo harness, and us that to perform a ground test?
Same with pins 4 and 7?

1644505176870.png
 
Getting closer on doing a coolant flush, replacing various sad looking hoses that are part of the heater system, cooling system, ETC.

Are thermostats considered to be wear items? I checked the FSM's maintinence section, and it was not called out there, in the engine cooling section it just said to test the thermostat, and replace if needed.

My assumption based on the rust accumulating on the clamps is that they have never been changed, and should all be replaced at 211K miles
Also doing the heater control valve, that was the primary reason for all of this :)

The previous owner was nice enough to replace all of the big radiator hoses with the Toyota ones.

Probably will do a pesky heater hose bypass as well, upon reading some threads.

My philosophy has always been to tackle the cooling system as one maintenance item and replace all of the components at once. You can test the thermostat to see if it works but if it fails in a year it's not worth it to me to drain and re-burp the system again for something cheap like a thermostat.

I replaced the cooling system on my brother's cheap 80 last year and we did everything. Hoses, clamps, PHH, rad, thermostat, WP, gaskets, etc. I just did the same on my 60. Do it once and do it right 👍

Also, text me about a double din stereo. I have a nice Pioneer unit from a 4 years ago that was in one of my old trucks that I'm not going to use and has Carplay.
 
While trying to find the interior ground for testing, I got distracted by one of these kicker stereo devices, it takes the audio in, and splits out high (to a tweeter shoved somewhere in the cabin) and mid (speaker in the door), not a fan, and this was the last one in the vehicle :D
(passenger side)

IMG-2367 - Copy.jpg
 
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survey says replace that cooling system and win!
 
survey says replace that cooling system and win!
That should *hopefully* be the last big thing that needs addressing, I have parts on order for that :D
Plan is to do that next weekend.
Muffler shop on Tuesday to get a new O2 sensor mounting point welded in, and small cracks / holes in the Y pipe closed up.
The second that I am back from the muffler shop, going to be shipping off my drivers seatbelt to get new webbing for it.
Wire in tail lights on bumper
Just in time for me to make a back seat sleeping platform to go with the drawers, run down a camp stove and lantern, and prep for the upcoming ONSC events this spring!
Need to run down some marine carpet / outdoor carpet locally so it looks like a pro made the sleeping platform :hillbilly:
 
For those of you following along at home, here is the big driver for me working on the cooling system:
IMG-2371 - Copy.jpg

One quite sad looking heater control valve.

I did a little investigating / looking earlier, the PHH is in the same bulged state as the hose to the left of the HCV.
Pretty much all of the cooling hoses are either bulging, or rock hard
 
For those of you following along at home, here is the big driver for me working on the cooling system:
View attachment 2922301
One quite sad looking heater control valve.

I did a little investigating / looking earlier, the PHH is in the same bulged state as the hose to the left of the HCV.
Pretty much all of the cooling hoses are either bulging, or rock hard
So what are you planning? Are you going to bypass it, stay OEM and replace it all?
 
For those of you following along at home, here is the big driver for me working on the cooling system:
View attachment 2922301
One quite sad looking heater control valve.

I did a little investigating / looking earlier, the PHH is in the same bulged state as the hose to the left of the HCV.
Pretty much all of the cooling hoses are either bulging, or rock hard
Borrowed time. I predict catastrophic destruction when you remove it.
 
The PHH task sucks, but I think there are worse tasks on an 80 series. It took me quite a while to complete the "wiggle and snap" step for the upper bracket on the hard line.
 

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