This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Keep those ujoints greased! The FSM yolk greasing guide is a bit vague and lots of folks have lots of warnings about Over greasing the told and damaging the transfer case, but you may have already seen those conversations.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
I love my vc120. Problem solved.
- Thread starter
- #184
Got a partial draining of the cooling system in, put evaporust thermo cool back in, with around 2.5G of distilled water.
Found the radiator drain valve.
Used a concrete mixing tub as my catch basin (which it is also excellent for all types of fluid catching) and made very little mess on driveway.
Shipment of parts came in from BH3D and Solvefunction.
Found the radiator drain valve.
Used a concrete mixing tub as my catch basin (which it is also excellent for all types of fluid catching) and made very little mess on driveway.
Shipment of parts came in from BH3D and Solvefunction.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
It’s a race! I just did my final cooling system flush, but anyone reading my thread knows my odds on winning are loooooooooog.
- Thread starter
- #186
I am trying to have all of the big items buttoned up before the ONSC calendar starts up!
2022 ONSC Calendar
forum.ih8mud.com
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Great goal! You got it!
I am trying to have all of the big items buttoned up before the ONSC calendar starts up!
2022 ONSC Calendar
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Nooooooo!
- Thread starter
- #190
it has turned to be sizable, going to have to check the rear heater lines, once I can get the block drain plug out, it seems to be constantly breaking free, and then becoming stuck again
- Thread starter
- #191
well, 
1. Drained all of the thermocure. (Good) (Had to do this since the weather went from 70 today to just above freezing at night)
2. Successfully removed the block drain plug (Good)
3. While removing the block drain plug, and my 38" of extensions, I managed to mangle the threads on the plug, caused by the socket. (not so good, going to call around for 9643123814 tomorrow)
4. Went to look at the leaking coolant from behind the passenger tire discovered that the cabin heater under the rear seats has a rusted line. (not good)
5. Tried to remove the heatshield, and tried to remove the upstream O2 sensor (which just had a new fitting installed) only to discover that the senor would not lift off once the nuts were removed (called it here before I turned color in anger)
1. Drained all of the thermocure. (Good) (Had to do this since the weather went from 70 today to just above freezing at night)
2. Successfully removed the block drain plug (Good)
3. While removing the block drain plug, and my 38" of extensions, I managed to mangle the threads on the plug, caused by the socket. (not so good, going to call around for 9643123814 tomorrow)
4. Went to look at the leaking coolant from behind the passenger tire discovered that the cabin heater under the rear seats has a rusted line. (not good)
5. Tried to remove the heatshield, and tried to remove the upstream O2 sensor (which just had a new fitting installed) only to discover that the senor would not lift off once the nuts were removed (called it here before I turned color in anger)
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
I think the plugs are available and can’t be expensive.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
You’re taking this in stride man. That sucks about the rusted line. Is it for rear heat or the front heat?well,
1. Drained all of the thermocure. (Good) (Had to do this since the weather went from 70 today to just above freezing at night)
2. Successfully removed the block drain plug (Good)
3. While removing the block drain plug, and my 38" of extensions, I managed to mangle the threads on the plug, caused by the socket. (not so good, going to call around for 9643123814 tomorrow)
4. Went to look at the leaking coolant from behind the passenger tire discovered that the cabin heater under the rear seats has a rusted line. (not good)
5. Tried to remove the heatshield, and tried to remove the upstream O2 sensor (which just had a new fitting installed) only to discover that the senor would not lift off once the nuts were removed (called it here before I turned color in anger)
Good thinking stopping for the day. That’s the smart play. Lots of choices ahead and more opportunities to make the cruiser better.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
If the thread on the plug is tapered its probably ⅛ BSPT ( might be ¼BSPT) which is British Standard Pipe Tapered thread.
Typically used for water and propane gas. The tapered thread makes them self sealing (theoretically)
BSPT & BSPP Threads
Discover British Standard Pipe Taper (BSPT) & British Standard Pipe Parallel (BSPP) Threads. Guide includes diagrams and BSP thread chart.
www.ryco.com.au
Oil fittings are more usually NPT - National Pipe Taper
They are similar, but not quite interchangeable.
- Thread starter
- #196
Just called, they are availible, earliest I could get it would be Tuesday, no one in state stocks them
- Thread starter
- #197
rear heater line, one that snakes over by the exhaust.
Speaking of, going to see if anyone in town has 5/8 heater hose with a 90 degree bend molded in.
Goodbye rear heater
LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose
Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.
- Thread starter
- #199
looks like that is OOSThis is what you want, it eliminates a few more clamps and looks factory cleanLCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose
Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.sites.google.com
I found a 90 degree bend at the local auto parts store, going to head that way in a bit, will just re-use the 180 degree fitting and send it
lumbee1
Native American
I have 1/2" gates green stripe if you need some. It's been hard to find locally for cheap.looks like that is OOS
I found a 90 degree bend at the local auto parts store, going to head that way in a bit, will just re-use the 180 degree fitting and send it
