"the gold one" update thread matts old rig

[bhmmapping]

That skid plate needs some spacers to space it down a little, I had some in there when Nick drove it off, but don't know if they are still there. Without them the TC will hit the skid and transfer a lot of noise to the cab, very unnerving. At start up it sounds like a knock almost.

drop the skid first and see if it goes away. it will be a lot quieter either way because it reflects a lot of noise back up into the cab.

I always suspected a bad motor mount too, not sure how to check it though.

 

[xodeuce]

Nothing "normal" about that truck! It'll take trained 3FE ears to tell you what's normal in the engine and Matt or Paul to tell you what is normal with the A42 in an 80...

Yeah, all relative. "Normal" for this beast I guess.

I didn't hear it the last 2-3 times a cranked it up...it's a toss up. I did the lay and listen 8-10 times one week.

That skid plate needs some spacers to space it down a little, I had some in there when Nick drove it off, but don't know if they are still there. Without them the TC will hit the skid and transfer a lot of noise to the cab, very unnerving. At start up it sounds like a knock almost.

drop the skid first and see if it goes away. it will be a lot quieter either way because it reflects a lot of noise back up into the cab.

I always suspected a bad motor mount too, not sure how to check it though.

I'll listen more carefully tomorrow and see if it sounds like t-case on skid as you describe.

 

[bhmmapping]

Yeah, all relative. "Normal" for this beast I guess.







I'll listen more carefully tomorrow and see if it sounds like t-case on skid as you describe.

It won't sound like it, check to see if it is spaced down off the frame, or just go ahead and take it off since you are going to anyway.

 

[Land Speeder]

motor mount is easy. hood open. lowest gear possible. e-brake on.... TORQUE(gas). have a friend watch the engine jump up on the driver side.

 

[BamaPaul]

^^^ if you don't have a friend close but have an engine hoist use that and it will show up too.

Any chance its rubbing at the slave cylinder where it was "clearanced". There was a ton of nose that came through when mine was bare metal on the shifter, I liked the looks a lot more but the sound drove me nuts. I now have carpet covering the center and a layer of thick rubber in there too to deaden noise from the road/engine.

 

[xodeuce]

So update on the skid plate contacting. I leaned in to start it without climbing in yesterday, and with my legs leaning on the sliders I could definitely feel something making metal to metal contact with something else bolted / welded to the frame. I'm going to pull the skid and see if it goes away.

The hood insulation pad does have a slight imprint in it, but I'm not sure if it's just relief cut for the intake runners to clear, or if they've actually contacted it. Without a reference it's kinda tough to tell.

Trying to find a place to get R12 or Freeze 12 locally before I pay out the ass for it on EBay. I know a guy that has his refrigeration license, so hopefully he can help me out.

Rudimentary AC troubleshooting yesterday, looks like the compressor clutch is working, the engine will idle up, and you can see bubbles in the sight glass. I hope it's a slow enough leak that a top off will at least get me through the end of the summer.

After spending some time in the engine bay, I'm gonna have to have a q/a with someone that's a 3FE guru. There's several things not immediately identifiable to me, some hose nipples capped and taped, a 4" diameter plastic pipe that's just sitting open going to something that almost looks like a blower assembly behind the driver side headlamp housing. I know that's probably all noob stuff, but the only engines I've ever spent any time working on have all been B series Honda 4 bangers. This tractor motor is a little bit different to say the least .

 

[BamaPaul]

The 4"tube is connected to a blower and is there to blow air on the engine to help cool it. As far as the vacuum hoses that have been capped I have no idea

 

[Land Speeder]

hey matt, did you do a delete on this 3FE? can't remember if you have or not...

 

[xodeuce]

The 4"tube is connected to a blower and is there to blow air on the engine to help cool it. As far as the vacuum hoses that have been capped I have no idea

Can you divert it to the intake for MOAR POWA!!! lol

That's kinda funny though. Is it temp / speed controlled? There wasn't any air blowing out of it at idle that I could feel.

 

[xodeuce]

This is the thing I'm not sure on the hoses that are capped.

And then the hood "imprint." It looks like it's clearanced for the intake runners, but I don't know if that's by design, or courtesy of a broken motor mount.

Sent via carrier pigeons to a computer near you using the ih8mud app.

 

[BamaPaul]

Those are all lines that should have gone to the smog pump. Matt may have deleted it, it should be right above your alt.

I have never heard my fan run either and never looked to see what activates it

 

[bhmmapping]

Yep, deleted the smog pump a while back. I gave Nick a truck full of parts when he bought it, did he pass it on to you? The rest of the bits and pieces to complete the desmog were in there. I always planned on putting a York compressor there but never got around to it.

The carb cooling fan comes on sometimes after you shut the truck down. I don't think it runs when the truck is running. I used to hear it on hot days.

and that engine looks filthy, you should wash it.

The AC leak should work for a while if you top it off. Like I said in the PM, the last time I topped it off was in 2009 and it didn't need much then.

 

[xodeuce]

Yep, deleted the smog pump a while back. I gave Nick a truck full of parts when he bought it, did he pass it on to you? The rest of the bits and pieces to complete the desmog were in there. I always planned on putting a York compressor there but never got around to it.

The carb cooling fan comes on sometimes after you shut the truck down. I don't think it runs when the truck is running. I used to hear it on hot days.

and that engine looks filthy, you should wash it.

The AC leak should work for a while if you top it off. Like I said in the PM, the last time I topped it off was in 2009 and it didn't need much then.

I did get a bunch of assorted stuff from Nick. I honestly haven't gone through all of it since I unloaded it. At a glance, wheel flares, factory shifter console, tires, mounted spare on rim, 2 axle shafts, and a box full o stuff.

That's after I sprayed everything down with Simple Green and hosed it off really quickly. I've got some more cleaning up to do in general on the exterior and axles.

 

[shoupe89]

Oh man...

You should have the box with the extra desmog stuff. If not ill check the shed and drive it up to
You on a Wednesday meet night or a weekend.

 

[xodeuce]

Oh man...

You should have the box with the extra desmog stuff. If not ill check the shed and drive it up to
You on a Wednesday meet night or a weekend.

Dude, there could be a basketball in that box and I wouldn't know. I honestly didn't dig through it. I also wouldn't know what "desmog stuff" was unless it was labeled as such. I'll take a look in there and snap a pic of what I've got.

 

[Land Speeder]

Your hood should not have that indention... the driver side mount is bursted bigger than s***.

So... your hood acts as the stopping of the entire driveline torquing, that's why there's a pretty indention there.

 

[xodeuce]

Your hood should not have that indention... the driver side mount is bursted bigger than s***.

So... your hood acts as the stopping of the entire driveline torquing, that's why there's a pretty indention there.

Sweet!

Kinda thought it felt like it might be busted... What was that you were saying about a grade 10 bolt and a drill?

I suppose the engine moving about like that could be part and parcel of the refrigerant leak as well, tugging on lines and whatnot. That leak could be a little bit, uh... more open than it used to be I bet.

 

[Land Speeder]

Well, you gotta get the motor mount pieces out first, the top and the bottom. Then with a small hole saw, drill out the old bolts (harder than it sounds). Pound out the stud/bolts. That will make a hole that goes through the existing motor mount. and ready for a bolt... I recommend a double nut and the top one having locking...

You will be AMAZED at the torque difference once this is fixed. It's like night and day difference. Even though the hood is stopping the torquing... it still doesn't truly stop it, since the hood is sheetmetal and can flex. I'd even venture to think that this will stop any rattling that's going on in the "flexing" of the trans or xfer case as well...

 

[xodeuce]

Well, you gotta get the motor mount pieces out first, the top and the bottom. Then with a small hole saw, drill out the old bolts (harder than it sounds). Pound out the stud/bolts. That will make a hole that goes through the existing motor mount. and ready for a bolt... I recommend a double nut and the top one having locking...

You will be AMAZED at the torque difference once this is fixed. It's like night and day difference. Even though the hood is stopping the torquing... it still doesn't truly stop it, since the hood is sheetmetal and can flex. I'd even venture to think that this will stop any rattling that's going on in the "flexing" of the trans or xfer case as well...

Oh boy oh boy. What does one do with the engine while pulling the mount? Do I need a hoist?

 

[Land Speeder]

big wide block of wood, set on top of a floor jack... jacks up the earl pan ever so carefully... whole driveline lifts up, you slide work the broken bits out.. lower it down til yer ready to re-insert.
re-assembly isn't so bad, because now the mount doesn't have the studs, it's merely a sandwhich you slide in. It's got guide dowels but those are short.
it's a fun project and pretty straight forward.

Clarence has my floor jack if you ain;t got one.