Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[RWBeringer4x4]

Nice fab work on the rad mount dude!

Thanks! It's not quite as pretty as I'd hoped but it's definitely strong and that is my primary concern. The original intent was to get the "C" channel identical to stock so I could butt-weld it in instead of overlapping like I did, but my cheesy angle iron metal bender makes pretty wide-radius bends so I had to compromise. I also cut-off the original mount a little off-square which made lining up that area messy.

They are press fit and welded in IIRC. I just cut them off flush re drilled and weled in metric bolts. Easy.

Kind of what I figured, I just didn't see any noticeable weld ridges and thought they might be strictly press-in.

 

[velillen]

Good job modifying it! Looks good for a "first time" sort of thing.

Your bolts/studs don't really look bad. Nothing a wire wheel (or sand blasting) to remove the surface rust and a tap (or thread restorer) wouldn't fix up and make usable again. Just to save some work

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Good job modifying it! Looks good for a "first time" sort of thing.

Your bolts/studs don't really look bad. Nothing a wire wheel (or sand blasting) to remove the surface rust and a tap (or thread restorer) wouldn't fix up and make usable again. Just to save some work

I might wind up being able to use them. The real issue I foresee is their length. I suspect that once I fab up the frame bracket to mount the radiator, I will need to space the radiator back up a bit, which will probably result in the existing studs being too short. I won't be cutting them off until I confirm.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

My transfercase gears and input shaft are at Valley Hybrids getting looked at due to the bushing fitment issues. I dropped my heater cores off at the last radiator shop still open in my area for testing, cleaning, and repair. As such, most of my major projects are stalled until my parts find their way home...

In the meantime, I'm focusing on the little things I can knock out while the engine is out. This weekend was full of tube bending...

I set out to re-cover my heater hoses with new insulation, and learned I would be building new ones:

I'll probably make these from type L copper coil - they should be close enough to the stock brass ones...

I also wanted to make new, nickel-copper fuel lines to replace my steel ones. In doing so, I discovered that Colin and I had welded the engine mount in the way of one of the original lines. We had also welded a plate right over the captured nut for the mounting bracket...woops!

I set out replicating the one stock fuel line I could still route correctly (and probably the only one I will need). The second (vent) line I had to cut short. I don't think I'll be running a vent or return line, but I will probably mount it and cap it under the truck in case I need it later. All in all, I'm happy with how they turned out.

Then it was a simple matter of drilling and tapping a new mount point for the line. Since the frame is now double-thick in this area, I iust tapped the steel:

While I was at it, I added some more holes to add additional brake line mounting points. I never liked the lack of support the line to the rear brakes got in my original setup...

Ultimately, I'm happy with how this looks. It should be plenty sturdy, and I never have to worry about it rusting!

Last, I bent, flared, and mounted the new clutch hard line, reinstalled the brake booster with its new boot and master, both coated in what is supposedly brake fluid resistant paint (time will tell).

I believe this just leaves the heater hard lines at this point. Then the whole setup will get new hoses.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

More small stuff.

Installed the heater pull cable that came courtesy of @reddingcruiser

The firewall grommet was toast, and naturally, anything the parts store had was too large an inner diameter:

So I added a grommet to the grommet it the form of some fuel line. This took up the slack and fit so tightly I shouldn't need to worry about it falling out:

Then I hooked it up to my new eBay heater valve. I had to bend the bracket a bit to get the cable calibrated to open and close the valve completely but otherwise no complications.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Next up I set out to solve a few other minor complaints.

I'd never liked the terrible, burned through welds left from the PO on the passenger side frame horn. The shop I had redo my steering had fixed the top and corner welds, but had inexplicably left this along the bottom.

Boogery welds and big open gaps...it wasn't a super big structural issue but it always bugged me.

I also created another problem for myself. The original tow hook bolts had been spot welded in. The hook, when I removed it, had rusted in place and in hammering the bolts, I broke the spot welds. I decided to cut an access hole to make for easy installation of new bolts.

About a half hour with a hand drill, a 2 1/4" hole saw, and lots of oil netted this:

Then I ground out the PO's weld, backed the gaps by sliding in strips of 11 gauge, and re-welded the bottom.

My efforts weren't pretty, but with a bit (a lot) of grinding it came out ok:

All buttoned up and re-painted:

I picked a 2 1/4" hole saw because it's about the same size as the stock frame cutouts. All in all I'm happy with how it came out.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I started this morning by getting the brakes hooked back up, and had the wife help bleed the brakes.

Next, I got the new rear harness I acquired from @Coolerman routed today. A couple of shots for posterity:

Up front I have an extra plug. I think this is to provide power to a powered trailer hitch I had him include in the harness. To be honest it had been so long that I can't remember!

Next I ran it through the frame. There are extensions for the fuel tanks and reverse switch on the transmission. Plus a single bullet connector I'll need to do some digging on.

I'm pretty sure the stock harness ran behind the frame tube toward the back of the frame. However, I couldn't, for the life of me, get the connectors to fit between the tube and the frame, so I decided to go up and over to avoid breaking anything.

Then across the back. My mangled harness was just hanging loose back here (secured with zip ties around the rear cross member) so I'm not sure of what the correct routing is. I added a single clip in the center of the cross member:

Connected up my new OEM tail lights, and reinstalled the headlight buckets. The original driver's side light had a trailer harness wired into it, and one of the bulb wires had given up, so I figured it was time to put these in.

I'm definitely going to have some questions when it comes to the side marker and lisence plate connectors inside the truck. A local cruiserheads and I had improvised a lisence plate harness to get the truck through inspection five years ago, but the connectors on Coolerman's harness obviously don't match up.

Does anyone have any shots of the junction between the side marker and license plate bracket connection? None of the wires will reach in their current state, so I have to imagine there's some sort of "Y" connection that I'm missing.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I also put the steering box back on. When a shop installed the conversion a couple years ago, they mounted the box too low. It worked with the thin, stock shackles, but I had to grind down the bigger, beefier shackles that I installed when I rebuilt the suspension. At the time, I clearance the shackle and cut a nut in half to make it all fit, but I noticed I definitely have some impact marks on the steering box where the shackle had been hitting it under flex.

Highlighted this area in yellow paint pen:

Then I added some 1/4" hardware store spacers to push the steering box out a bit. I'm hoping these are strong enough to withstand steering forces. I'm debating if I want to make some out of DOM tubing instead...any thoughts here?

We will see if this provides enough room for the shackle to swing. I doubt it, but if I continue to get conflict, it will show in the yellow paint. If it does, I may go to a thinner shackle up front (closer to stock)

Curious what everyone thinks on those spacers and whether or not they're sufficient strength in this application.

 

[Stumpalama]

I also put the steering box back on. When a shop installed the conversion a couple years ago, they mounted the box too low. It worked with the thin, stock shackles, but I had to grind down the bigger, beefier shackles that I installed when I rebuilt the suspension. At the time, I clearance the shackle and cut a nut in half to make it all fit, but I noticed I definitely have some impact marks on the steering box where the shackle had been hitting it under flex.

Highlighted this area in yellow paint pen:

View attachment 1576782

Then I added some 1/4" hardware store spacers to push the steering box out a bit. I'm hoping these are strong enough to withstand steering forces. I'm debating if I want to make some out of DOM tubing instead...any thoughts here?

View attachment 1576781

We will see if this provides enough room for the shackle to swing. I doubt it, but if I continue to get conflict, it will show in the yellow paint. If it does, I may go to a thinner shackle up front (closer to stock)

Curious what everyone thinks on those spacers and whether or not they're sufficient strength in this application.

Are those new bushings? If not, it's probably a good time to replace them with poly bushings.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Are those new bushings? If not, it's probably a good time to replace them with poly bushings.

New as of a couple of years ago when I did the disc brake conversion and rebuilt the axles. There's probably less than 500mi on them. I'm going to to let them ride a little longer. There's likely a lift in my future. When the time comes, spring eye and shackle pin sizes may change, depending on the manufacturer I go with, so it will get new bushings then.

 

[Dirtgypsy]

I think your spacers look fine. Rear cross member and lights look great!

Clint

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

A couple more steps forward today. All these little things that need to get done are surprisingly time consuming!

First, I added ground bolts to the new tail lights. As much as I don't like boring holes in brand new housings, grounds are a common issue on old Land Cruisers, and Coolerman was kind enough to add some ground wires to the rear harness. I decided to take advantage. There is a random hole in the center light reflector that seemed like an ideal place:

Then, I took a trick out of the @Cdaniel book and cut up a heater hose grommet to replace my spent fuel hose grommet by the gas tank:

It's not beautiful but it should work.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Lastly, I bent some 5/8" type L copper coil into some new rear heater hoses since mine had burst. I've been spoiled by NiCopp. Copper is a PAIN to bend, particularly on the complex bends around the transmission hump. I probably wasted 10 feet of copper before I got the 6 feet I needed looking respectable:

They aren't perfect replicates but they will have to do...

Then I added the McMaster Carr insulation mentioned in a number of other threads. This required a lot of muscle and copious gold-bond to get the insulation to slide over.

Since I don't have any way to flare or barb 5/8" copper, I improvised and soldered on some compression fittings to serve as hose barbs:

The final product mocked up:

The main issue I foresee is that the "T" in the short firewall pipes are closer to 1/2" OD, so 5/8" rubber hose is a pretty loose fit. I'm hoping I can synch the hose clamps down enough to prevent leaks. On the new pipes, I have the opposite issue. The compression fittings I soldered on make it a PAIN to get the 5/8" rubber hose over, but hopefully these, plus the hose clamps, will provide a good seal.

At this point, I'm going to need to get my heater cores back from the local radiator shop, or my transfercase gears back from Georg. Mercifully, I think all the "while I'm in there" crap is coming to an end.

I'll also need to do something about fixing that transmission hump, but the ultra-thin metal and my total lack of experience fabbing up sheet metal patch panels makes me a little nervous.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Sticking on the heating system theme, I got my heater cores back from Wilson's Radiator last week. Dick Wilson is about 85 years old, and was awesome to work with. It took a bit longer than expected as he's basically doing it part time for "something to do" these days. It's going to be a sad day when he closes up shop, as there is literally nobody else within an hour to do this kind of work anymore. With the repaired cores in hand, I spent the weekend putting everything back together.

New foam on the front heater cores, attached with 3M high strength spray adhesive. I decided to keep the stock top and bottom covers since they were still fairly pliable. Immediately regretted this upon reinstallation.

With the new foam installed, getting the heater core back in the box was a MASSIVE pain in the neck. It took a lot of "expanding" the sheet metal with a quick grip clamp (jaws reversed), plus my wife holding the heater box in place while I tried to jam these 10lbs of s*** into a 5lb sack. The end result was some cracked paint in places due to the metal flexing, so there will be a bit of touch-up, but ultimately, we persevered.

Then, naturally, everything had to be re-compressed in order to get the little cover plate that goes over the top of the box to fit back over it. more work with the clamp, a touch more cracked paint.

Next, the heater doors and flaps all got new foam. I bought a roll of 1/4" thick neoprene sheet of amazon, and cut to fit. It started looking a lot like arts and crafts hour in my kitchen. Lots of measuring, cutting, and permanent marker stains on my cutting board. Oops...

Unfortunately, 3M adhesive boiled up the paint in a couple of places it looks like, but the primer held, and it will be covered by neoprene anyway. From what I can tell, most of the areas it bubbled where spots I would expect for oil and grime to get trapped anyway. It speaks more to a lack of cleaning on my part, I think, than to the durability of rustoleum...

Once the replacement foam was dried, it was just a matter of putting it all back together with some fresh, stainless steel screws:

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Next up was the rear heater. I didn't take many pictures, but the rear heater core had been painted black by Wilson's radiator shop. I gave it a coat of Eastwood Brake Gray (400 degree temperature tolerance) to bring it back to silver, and cut some new foam for the top and bottom of the core tanks. I doubled up the thickness in this case:

You really get an idea of how much solder was required to patch the leaking tank on this heater core!

From there, I disassembled the heater motor. I should have taken pictures but I was in a hurry. There was a lot of rust inside the motor housing, which I cleaned out. Otherwise, the magnets, brushes, etc. all looked to be in pretty good shape. I lubed up the motor shafts and bushings with some motor oil, reassembled, and wired it up to a car battery to test. It ran nice and quiet and moved a lot of air. Happy with my results, the rear heater also got bolted back together:

Job done, aside from cleaning all my tools out of the kitchen

 

[1Fine40]

Next up was the rear heater. I didn't take many pictures, but the rear heater core had been painted black by Wilson's radiator shop. I gave it a coat of Eastwood Brake Gray (400 degree temperature tolerance) to bring it back to silver, and cut some new foam for the top and bottom of the core tanks. I doubled up the thickness in this case:

View attachment 1585871

You really get an idea of how much solder was required to patch the leaking tank on this heater core!

From there, I disassembled the heater motor. I should have taken pictures but I was in a hurry. There was a lot of rust inside the motor housing, which I cleaned out. Otherwise, the magnets, brushes, etc. all looked to be in pretty good shape. I lubed up the motor shafts and bushings with some motor oil, reassembled, and wired it up to a car battery to test. It ran nice and quiet and moved a lot of air. Happy with my results, the rear heater also got bolted back together:

View attachment 1585876

Job done, aside from cleaning all my tools out of the kitchen

Wow...that is one patient wife you have!!! That would not fly in this household....I'd be banished to outer slobovia..

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Wow...that is one patient wife you have!!! That would not fly in this household....I'd be banished to outer slobovia..

More patient than I deserve, for sure! She also dealt with a radiator sitting in the living room for a few months because I ran out of space in the garage...I earn my keep fixing her car and renovating rooms around the house too (not to mention cooking) so it sounds like so far the good I bring to the table outweighs the bad of living with a cruiser addict.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

IT’S NEW ENGINE DAY!

Merry Christmas to the Clustertruck.

Nothing special - bone stock Gen1 flat tappet 350. JEGS had a good sale running so I pulled the trigger.

Now to get it out of the crate, onto a stand, and start strapping parts to it.

 

[Cdaniel]

Ruh roh!

 

[RAYJON]

I also put the steering box back on. When a shop installed the conversion a couple years ago, they mounted the box too low. It worked with the thin, stock shackles, but I had to grind down the bigger, beefier shackles that I installed when I rebuilt the suspension. At the time, I clearance the shackle and cut a nut in half to make it all fit, but I noticed I definitely have some impact marks on the steering box where the shackle had been hitting it under flex.

Highlighted this area in yellow paint pen:

View attachment 1576782

Then I added some 1/4" hardware store spacers to push the steering box out a bit. I'm hoping these are strong enough to withstand steering forces. I'm debating if I want to make some out of DOM tubing instead...any thoughts here?

View attachment 1576781



We will see if this provides enough room for the shackle to swing. I doubt it, but if I continue to get conflict, it will show in the yellow paint. If it does, I may go to a thinner shackle up front (closer to stock)

Curious what everyone thinks on those spacers and whether or not they're sufficient strength in this application.

Think about cutting the head off the bolt and welding it into the shackle. If you are not confident on your welding skills have someone good do it...