The 60 at vern's place in Mesa now

[phoenixrider]

Blew the HG a while back out in eastern AZ, over at Vern's now to yank the engine and do a rebuild

We're going 40 over on the pistons, got the Downey tourqer cam and heavy duty valve springs coming, along with a new 4 row radiator from CCOT - Vern's already ordered most of of the OEM replacement parts for it, along with a new OEM clutch

I'm desmogging. F' it. Will have to figure out some way to legaly register it, but f' the smog nazis!

Still on the fence about headers, they are so damned expensive, and I heard they really 'cook' the engine compartment

Vern and will pulling the motor this sat and tearing it down. Should be fun. I've never got to rebuild an engine before

 

[BMAN]

Send the exhaust manifold out to be extrude honed. It'll flow better than headers and lower the underhood temps to as it reduces heat soak through the manifold.

 

[phoenixrider]

Does a general machine shop know how to do this? In other words, do I ask them to do that, or do I have to explain in detail what I want? Also, what would I do with the air ports from the smog pump on the exhaust manifold? just put in plugs?

I do like this idea cause a) cheaper and b) keeps the engine cooler

 

[BMAN]

Extrude honing is a specialized process. The company that I new in town has closed. Let me do some searching for a new source that's not in Cali.

 

[BMAN]

This is all I got for ya man. They're in Cali but they serve the entire southwest. Call them to talk about your needs. Tell them you would like seperate pricing to have your intake and exhaust manifolds done. The can also do your head too, which would be totally bitchen after a clean matchporting job.

Check out the AFM process description at www.extrudehone.com it explains the process and will help you get an idea of how this will help.

Keep in mind that this process is not cheap by any means and most people would tend to think that it's way overboard for our application but it WILL make a difference and an extrude honed manifold will often outflow a larger header.

 

[Tools R Us]

$625. for level 1, no port matching! The F motors are rather conservative and relatively low rpm, my guess is that it won't make much performance difference, especially in the low rpm range. If I were budgeting performance mods for a 2F, the first money would go to balancing, second to polishing the combustion chambers, piston tops and shaving the head and/or the block for more compression. That would probably produce the best gains across the power band.

By spending a couple of hours with an extended die grinder and some sanding rolls, flap disks, etc you could get most of the honing gains. A large percentage of porting gains are from, port to manifold matching and removing obvious casting flashing, ridges. So the relatively inexperienced can make a difference by carefully cleaning up and smoothing the flow areas.

 

[phoenixrider]

yeah, did some checking, while it sounds pretty cool - for a limited budget 2F rebuild think it's pretty much out of my price range

 

[BMAN]

PATCHOWWWEEEE!!!

Prices have gone WAY up! There was a guy that used to be in Phoenix that would do a full runthrough ,both ways, of intake, heads and exhaust for $425. We would do our own matchporting on both ends first then drop them off to him for interior cleanup. OUCH! that hurts...

 

[-Spike-]

I got a noticeable power gain from cleaning up the airways on a 250cc 2 stroke motor with a Dremel. Definitely worth the effort, and I can't imagine it could hurt unless you got real carried away.

-Spike

 

[MoGas]

Extrude Hone (HQ) was right across the street from my Jr. high school in Irwin, Pa. We toured the facility when I was in 8th grade metal shop (1981). It was a small shop then. We used to get our 125cc jugs EH'd for 30 bucks back then, while you waited!!!!

 

[Relix]

Tell them you would like seperate pricing to have your intake and exhaust manifolds done. .

Why would you want your intake done? This would be a bad idea on a 2f or F engine... Smooth intake runners are good for high rpm but terrible for low rpm... You need the turbulence in the runners to better atomize the Air fuel mixture at low rpm (and that's where the F and 2f are the most effecnt(SP))

Example.. I tinker with engines and know from trial and error that smoothing out the casting in a cast intake manifold will kill your bottom end power, but help you top end power, unless you do port work to complement it, but in a single intake valve combustion chambered engine there's nowhere to do it... In a dual intake valve engine you and dimple the area where the two valve ports split to cause the turbulence needs at low rpms...

like so..

This is the head on my Civic...

The thing is there is no area on a single intake valve head to do this..


I am going to try and find my old dyno files now of before and after extrude honing my old skunk2 intake manifold, and my before and after intake port work...

For heat soak , http://www.hpcoatings.com/am/default.aspx in chandler does amazing stuff.. On SRD's race car they had the turbo manifold coated along with the turbo down pipe and intercooler piping coated and it lowered under the hood temps by 200+ degrees.... We didn't have a way to measure the effect on heat soak to the intake manifold, mainly because the intake on a honda engine is on the opposite side of the engine(where it should be IMO) but the Air intake temp sensor registered a 40 degree decrease in the intake temp after insulating the intercooler and charge pipes inside the engine bay...Alone with the Turbo manifold & down pipe...

 

[Relix]

I got a noticeable power gain from cleaning up the airways on a 250cc 2 stroke motor with a Dremel. Definitely worth the effort, and I can't imagine it could hurt unless you got real carried away.

-Spike

Unless you know what you're doing you are more likely to hurt performance then help it... The speed of the flow is as important as the restriction of the flow, decreasing the restriction of the flow also decreases the speed of the flow... You want the restriction low & you want the speed high, the trick is figuring out where you need what...

 

[phoenixrider]

hey, I wonder if anybody has tried exhaust wrap on the intake maniford?....

 

[Relix]

hey, I wonder if anybody has tried exhaust wrap on the intake maniford?....

Exhaust wrap works great as long as you never get it wet... Wet=Rust

 

[phoenixrider]

isn't the intake manifold alumimin though?

 

[BMAN]

Them honda guys have problems with rusty aluminum all the time.

 

[Relix]

isn't the intake manifold alumimin though?

my bad, I read it as Exhaust wrap and automatically though, you ment put it on the exhuast...

 

[Relix]

Them honda guys have problems with rusty aluminum all the time.

yeah we make mistakes everyone now and them..

 

[phoenixrider]

I'd just think, any sort of heat shield or heat wrap to keep some of the heat out of the intake should help

aluminum, by definition, can't 'rust' only oxidize

Oh well. Got the MAF coated tri-y's on order as well. This thing should run like a pig in heat when it's done