Here's that BJ71 I was on about in Fla.
http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/604600481/overview/
http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/604600481/overview/
That BJ71
- Thread starter jblueridge
- Start date
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Mileage? Lots of reasons to pass on this one at any price - light weight drivetrain, engine, short wheelbase (my prejudice), RHD (more snobbery) and its at a dealer. Japan to Florida - love to hear the back story. Pretty truck, tho.
That one is a hardtop, coil springs with a 2.4L turbo. I think it pre dates the electronic engine management, but they have a bad reputation here.
- Thread starter
- #5
Wow!
That's why I joined this forum to get expert advice!
I guess I won't be running off to Florida.
Wardharris: Short wheelbase a drivability thing, or you just don't like them?
How likely is a LHD going to be?
That's why I joined this forum to get expert advice!
I guess I won't be running off to Florida.
Wardharris: Short wheelbase a drivability thing, or you just don't like them?
How likely is a LHD going to be?
Happy to explain....
My first LC was a (then new) FJ40 - basically the same truck as the 70/71, at least as far as wheelbase and suspension. The short wheelbase was OK, but it got old as a daily driver - kind of like my old Willys - tippy, choppy, etc. Next truck (30 years later) was an FJ62 - mostly because of the longer wheelbase. Now on my second 62 and the mid wheel base 73 is my daily rig. Kind of like Goldilocks. 40/70/71 'too small' (wheelbase and cabin), 60/62/80/100 'too big' and the 73/74/75 series are 'just right.'
So, yes, a driveability/utility thing, but also aesthetics. I guess they are fine for other folks.
LHD rigs from Europe tend to be configured a little differently than RHD rigs from Japan, mostly diesels. Some LHD rigs are coming in from Central and South America - those tend to be gas.
Suggest you take some time and get to know the different models. Left hand, right hand, gas, diesel (naturally aspirated or turbo), 5 speed, automatic, short/medium/long wheelbase, fixed/removable hardtop, etc. Talk to all the importers - I bought mine from Chris Spaulding. - http://www.jdmlandcruisers.com/ He and his partner have brought in many fine LHD trucks from Spain and Portugal. If you can be happy with RHD, try Land Cruisers Direct at http://www.landcruisersdirect.com/
MUD Search function is your friend. Use it and you will find more information than you can imagine. Also, information on some other importers with less stellar backstories.
Let me ask you some questions:
1 - Why do you want a 7X? Trail, expedition, daily driver?
2 - What is your budget for the first year (purchase, repair, upgrade)? Purchase price is just the beginning.
3 - Are you a patient person? Parts can take a bit of effort.
4 - How are your mechanical skills and access to shop/tool resources? If you will hire folks to do the work, make allowances in #2 above.
5 - Where do you live? Good Cruiser mechanics, especially those with 7X expertise, are not easy to fine.
Good luck, keep us posted!
My first LC was a (then new) FJ40 - basically the same truck as the 70/71, at least as far as wheelbase and suspension. The short wheelbase was OK, but it got old as a daily driver - kind of like my old Willys - tippy, choppy, etc. Next truck (30 years later) was an FJ62 - mostly because of the longer wheelbase. Now on my second 62 and the mid wheel base 73 is my daily rig. Kind of like Goldilocks. 40/70/71 'too small' (wheelbase and cabin), 60/62/80/100 'too big' and the 73/74/75 series are 'just right.'
So, yes, a driveability/utility thing, but also aesthetics. I guess they are fine for other folks.
LHD rigs from Europe tend to be configured a little differently than RHD rigs from Japan, mostly diesels. Some LHD rigs are coming in from Central and South America - those tend to be gas.
Suggest you take some time and get to know the different models. Left hand, right hand, gas, diesel (naturally aspirated or turbo), 5 speed, automatic, short/medium/long wheelbase, fixed/removable hardtop, etc. Talk to all the importers - I bought mine from Chris Spaulding. - http://www.jdmlandcruisers.com/ He and his partner have brought in many fine LHD trucks from Spain and Portugal. If you can be happy with RHD, try Land Cruisers Direct at http://www.landcruisersdirect.com/
MUD Search function is your friend. Use it and you will find more information than you can imagine. Also, information on some other importers with less stellar backstories.
Let me ask you some questions:
1 - Why do you want a 7X? Trail, expedition, daily driver?
2 - What is your budget for the first year (purchase, repair, upgrade)? Purchase price is just the beginning.
3 - Are you a patient person? Parts can take a bit of effort.
4 - How are your mechanical skills and access to shop/tool resources? If you will hire folks to do the work, make allowances in #2 above.
5 - Where do you live? Good Cruiser mechanics, especially those with 7X expertise, are not easy to fine.
Good luck, keep us posted!
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that one is (or was) down the street from Stoney's
I'm obviously biased but the difference between the SWB (70/71 Series) and the MWB (73/74 Series) is +\- 13" ( if I remember correctly) which doesn't sound like much but it makes all the difference in the world.
If you could believe the mileage (kilometerage), and the condition is as it appears in the glossy's, it could be a winner. I picked up an LJ70 from Germany last fall, and it's serving it's purpose just fine. My daughter in law drives it every day, and it's put on about 10K miles. The coil suspension is a major step up in handling and ride comfort, it's like the difference between an FZJ80 and an FJ62. Yeah, it's got the tiny 8" differential, and the cattle pusher front valence is like a terra plane in drag, but it stays on the road, is a blast to drive, and you can't make it give less than 40 km (25mi) to the gallon. And it goes up for sale when Charles grows tired of his HJ.
Ouch
Sent from my Levis using IH8MUD Forum pocket dial
Sent from my Levis using IH8MUD Forum pocket dial
- Thread starter
- #11
Wardharris
1 - I want to do some moderate to medium-hard off-roading in places like Colorado and Wyoming. Sadly, I have to drive from Virginia to get to those places, so that means highway speeds. Would not be a daily driver but used once or twice/week unless it snows or something here.
2 - I'd like to find a diesel in good shape for $15,000 or less. I understand the 13BT is a good engine. How many thousands $$$ more do you think would be required? More than $3,000? Are my figures in the ballpark?
3 - Having driven and MGBGT daily for 19 years in the dark days before the InterWeb (with no other vehicle), I have learned to be both patient and resourceful.
4 - I am restoring the BGT and so have accumulated a pretty good shop including compressor, air tools, oxy-acetylene, MIG and toy-like sheet metal plasma cutter. I Don't Want To Do Any Body Work That Really Matters! Patching a hole in a floor would be a walk in the park. Removing large rusty bolts with heat and breaker bar is A-Ok. I can spray POR-15 up into areas that may be starting to rust. I want to avoid anything to do with little rust pits, body filler and block sanding. That can also mean I'll just let the rust pits get larger.
5 - I live in Central Virginia. I had not thought about the Land Cruiser mechanic situation. Good point! There's a guy literally a mile down the road who is a Toyota Certified Mech: I will consult with him.
1978HJ45 - The wheelbase difference IS +/-13". Overall length difference is 17", or that's what I got off the Internet, so it must be right.
The extra 13" in wheelbase makes it drive/handle that much better?
I was thinking shorter = more nimble, at least off-road.
1 - I want to do some moderate to medium-hard off-roading in places like Colorado and Wyoming. Sadly, I have to drive from Virginia to get to those places, so that means highway speeds. Would not be a daily driver but used once or twice/week unless it snows or something here.
2 - I'd like to find a diesel in good shape for $15,000 or less. I understand the 13BT is a good engine. How many thousands $$$ more do you think would be required? More than $3,000? Are my figures in the ballpark?
3 - Having driven and MGBGT daily for 19 years in the dark days before the InterWeb (with no other vehicle), I have learned to be both patient and resourceful.
4 - I am restoring the BGT and so have accumulated a pretty good shop including compressor, air tools, oxy-acetylene, MIG and toy-like sheet metal plasma cutter. I Don't Want To Do Any Body Work That Really Matters! Patching a hole in a floor would be a walk in the park. Removing large rusty bolts with heat and breaker bar is A-Ok. I can spray POR-15 up into areas that may be starting to rust. I want to avoid anything to do with little rust pits, body filler and block sanding. That can also mean I'll just let the rust pits get larger.
5 - I live in Central Virginia. I had not thought about the Land Cruiser mechanic situation. Good point! There's a guy literally a mile down the road who is a Toyota Certified Mech: I will consult with him.
1978HJ45 - The wheelbase difference IS +/-13". Overall length difference is 17", or that's what I got off the Internet, so it must be right.
The extra 13" in wheelbase makes it drive/handle that much better?
I was thinking shorter = more nimble, at least off-road.
JB -
Some responses
1 - I want to do some moderate to medium-hard off-roading in places like Colorado and Wyoming. Sadly, I have to drive from Virginia to get to those places, so that means highway speeds. Would not be a daily driver but used once or twice/week unless it snows or something here.
Charlottesville to Denver via I-70 = 1,600 miles. 13B-T, air and MWB probably good ideas.
2 - I'd like to find a diesel in good shape for $15,000 or less. I understand the 13BT is a good engine. How many thousands $$$ more do you think would be required? More than $3,000? Are my figures in the ballpark?
To paraphrase a Prussian field marshall from the 19th century, "No Cruiser plan ever survives contact with a real vehicle."
$12,000 should buy a decent BJ74, but you will likely need a heavy service (fluids, filters, tune, a/c, etc.) and replacement/upgrade of several major systems (knuckles, brakes, u-joints, suspension, etc.) and that could well eat up the balance of your $18,000. Don't forget tires, winch, other gear if you don't have it already.
3 - Having driven and MGBGT daily for 19 years in the dark days before the InterWeb (with no other vehicle), I have learned to be both patient and resourceful.
Lots of parts are straight over from other USA models, but they never sold diesels to civilians here and many items must be sourced from non-dealer sources. There are good sellers in addition to MUD members that manage Toyota parts departments (CDan, Beno, Sam Stewart) - Yan ("Akella" on MUD) is awesome when it comes to OEM new stock. It can take a few weeks to get your parts delivered to you. Helps if you have a reliable daily driver.
4 - I am restoring the BGT and so have accumulated a pretty good shop including compressor, air tools, oxy-acetylene, MIG and toy-like sheet metal plasma cutter. I Don't Want To Do Any Body Work That Really Matters! Patching a hole in a floor would be a walk in the park. Removing large rusty bolts with heat and breaker bar is A-Ok. I can spray POR-15 up into areas that may be starting to rust. I want to avoid anything to do with little rust pits, body filler and block sanding. That can also mean I'll just let the rust pits get larger.
Excellent. Search/read MUD by topic and read that stuff at least four hours per day, buy a FSM or get the PDF version on your tablet, make friends with the local Cruiser club. Buy beer/pizza, invite them to help.
5 - I live in Central Virginia. I had not thought about the Land Cruiser mechanic situation. Good point! There's a guy literally a mile down the road who is a Toyota Certified Mech: I will consult with him.
Not all Toyota mechanics created equal. I would not trust my rigs to a mech that didn't specialize in antique farm implements (aka, 25+ year old Landcruisers that were never supported by USA service network). Check the "mechanics by state" listing on MUD and ask members about their experience with your candidate shop.
Ward Harris
PS OK, I was messin' with you a bit on answer to #4. Four hours/day on MUD may be a little overboard......naw, that's about right. Yan's site (www.cruiseraddiction.com) is well named. Be careful what you wish for and HAVE FUN!
Some responses
1 - I want to do some moderate to medium-hard off-roading in places like Colorado and Wyoming. Sadly, I have to drive from Virginia to get to those places, so that means highway speeds. Would not be a daily driver but used once or twice/week unless it snows or something here.
Charlottesville to Denver via I-70 = 1,600 miles. 13B-T, air and MWB probably good ideas.
2 - I'd like to find a diesel in good shape for $15,000 or less. I understand the 13BT is a good engine. How many thousands $$$ more do you think would be required? More than $3,000? Are my figures in the ballpark?
To paraphrase a Prussian field marshall from the 19th century, "No Cruiser plan ever survives contact with a real vehicle."
$12,000 should buy a decent BJ74, but you will likely need a heavy service (fluids, filters, tune, a/c, etc.) and replacement/upgrade of several major systems (knuckles, brakes, u-joints, suspension, etc.) and that could well eat up the balance of your $18,000. Don't forget tires, winch, other gear if you don't have it already.
3 - Having driven and MGBGT daily for 19 years in the dark days before the InterWeb (with no other vehicle), I have learned to be both patient and resourceful.
Lots of parts are straight over from other USA models, but they never sold diesels to civilians here and many items must be sourced from non-dealer sources. There are good sellers in addition to MUD members that manage Toyota parts departments (CDan, Beno, Sam Stewart) - Yan ("Akella" on MUD) is awesome when it comes to OEM new stock. It can take a few weeks to get your parts delivered to you. Helps if you have a reliable daily driver.
4 - I am restoring the BGT and so have accumulated a pretty good shop including compressor, air tools, oxy-acetylene, MIG and toy-like sheet metal plasma cutter. I Don't Want To Do Any Body Work That Really Matters! Patching a hole in a floor would be a walk in the park. Removing large rusty bolts with heat and breaker bar is A-Ok. I can spray POR-15 up into areas that may be starting to rust. I want to avoid anything to do with little rust pits, body filler and block sanding. That can also mean I'll just let the rust pits get larger.
Excellent. Search/read MUD by topic and read that stuff at least four hours per day, buy a FSM or get the PDF version on your tablet, make friends with the local Cruiser club. Buy beer/pizza, invite them to help.
5 - I live in Central Virginia. I had not thought about the Land Cruiser mechanic situation. Good point! There's a guy literally a mile down the road who is a Toyota Certified Mech: I will consult with him.
Not all Toyota mechanics created equal. I would not trust my rigs to a mech that didn't specialize in antique farm implements (aka, 25+ year old Landcruisers that were never supported by USA service network). Check the "mechanics by state" listing on MUD and ask members about their experience with your candidate shop.
Ward Harris
PS OK, I was messin' with you a bit on answer to #4. Four hours/day on MUD may be a little overboard......naw, that's about right. Yan's site (www.cruiseraddiction.com) is well named. Be careful what you wish for and HAVE FUN!
FWIW, try a RHD, you might like it!
Edit: Also since you mentioned Colorado, once I got above 3k feet, my 3b lost ~ 30% of it's power and smoked like a mother. Entirely different vehicle post turbo install which will cost you from beginning to end, including redoing the exhaust ~3 grand.
Edit: Also since you mentioned Colorado, once I got above 3k feet, my 3b lost ~ 30% of it's power and smoked like a mother. Entirely different vehicle post turbo install which will cost you from beginning to end, including redoing the exhaust ~3 grand.
Good point - RHD, diesels, etc. - ya never know till you try. Or maybe something completely different - RHD crew cab FJ or HJ75 for just a few dollars more....lotsa cool 7X rigs coming in.
Jblueridge ....... The extra 13" in wheelbase makes it drive/handle that much better?
I was thinking shorter = more nimble, at least off-road.
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Let's say you spend 90% of your time "on road" and 10% "off road" ...... That extra 13" is worth it's weight in gold.
And since I own a BJ74 I'm obviously biased towards the MWB.
I was thinking shorter = more nimble, at least off-road.
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Let's say you spend 90% of your time "on road" and 10% "off road" ...... That extra 13" is worth it's weight in gold.
And since I own a BJ74 I'm obviously biased towards the MWB.
- Thread starter
- #16
If that was Von Molkte, it carries more weight than a basic read gives it.
That $18k figure is pushing it for me, with the MG project creeping along (draining $$$).
If I really pretty up my F150 before I sell it, maybe it will bring in a little more.
Yeah, turbo diesel and high altitude is what I was thinking.
I could find a BJ40 and do (or have done) turbo upgrade or engine swap.
I should restate/clarify that cosmetics are a lower priority for me than mechanicals, frame, undercarriage, etc.
Whatever I end up with is going to get thrashed in the weeds some anyway.
One rusting hulk that needs TLC is enough and that's my MG.
Mechanic nearby may or may not be checked out on these but he knows people in the biz.
That $18k figure is pushing it for me, with the MG project creeping along (draining $$$).
If I really pretty up my F150 before I sell it, maybe it will bring in a little more.
Yeah, turbo diesel and high altitude is what I was thinking.
I could find a BJ40 and do (or have done) turbo upgrade or engine swap.
I should restate/clarify that cosmetics are a lower priority for me than mechanicals, frame, undercarriage, etc.
Whatever I end up with is going to get thrashed in the weeds some anyway.
One rusting hulk that needs TLC is enough and that's my MG.
Mechanic nearby may or may not be checked out on these but he knows people in the biz.
...... "RHD crew cab FJ or HJ75 for just a few dollars more" ........
Although my experience is (only) with Australian imports, I would have to disagree with this one statement. (Sorry Ward)
I am familiar with 3 HJ75's that were imported from Australia and all three were FAR more expensive that a similar aged
BJ70,71,73,or 74. Most Australian HJ75's have lived a hard life and require considerable investment to get them up to speed.
Chester ..... And it goes up for sale when Charles grows tired of his HJ.
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It's just an ole slow pickup truck.
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It's just an ole slow pickup truck.
"If that was Von Molkte, it carries more weight than a basic read gives it." - jblueridge
That's the dead duke that i referenced.
"Most Australian HJ75's have lived a hard life and require considerable investment to get them up to speed." - 1978HJ45
The doka / crew cab shown is a South African rig, around 120k miles and something over $20,000 with US title. The importer (Scott Onken - Eco 45) suggests that they are well-used but not abused.
"for just a few dollars more." - wardharris
I should have used quotes to indicate subtle use of my wry and (self mocking) sardonic wit, tying back my own inability to plan and execute a budgeted Cruiser rehab without going over budget.
"Yeah, turbo diesel and high altitude is what I was thinking I could find a BJ40 and do (or have done) turbo upgrade or engine swap." - jblueridge
If you can do RHD (easier in a trail/expedition/non DD) it would be hard to beat one of the JDM BJ74s, already loaded with trail-friendly gear like cable lockers, turbo diesel and a PTO winch. Add-on turbos and engine swaps will compete for time, love and budget with your MG. After a while, the Cruiser addiction will take over and you will end up with a trail rig, a sweet/clean daily driver and a pristine, low mileage museum truck.....wait, that was me.......never mind.
One non-promotional example (no affiliation) with lots of things to like at a price point:
That's the dead duke that i referenced.
"Most Australian HJ75's have lived a hard life and require considerable investment to get them up to speed." - 1978HJ45
The doka / crew cab shown is a South African rig, around 120k miles and something over $20,000 with US title. The importer (Scott Onken - Eco 45) suggests that they are well-used but not abused.
"for just a few dollars more." - wardharris
I should have used quotes to indicate subtle use of my wry and (self mocking) sardonic wit, tying back my own inability to plan and execute a budgeted Cruiser rehab without going over budget.
"Yeah, turbo diesel and high altitude is what I was thinking I could find a BJ40 and do (or have done) turbo upgrade or engine swap." - jblueridge
If you can do RHD (easier in a trail/expedition/non DD) it would be hard to beat one of the JDM BJ74s, already loaded with trail-friendly gear like cable lockers, turbo diesel and a PTO winch. Add-on turbos and engine swaps will compete for time, love and budget with your MG. After a while, the Cruiser addiction will take over and you will end up with a trail rig, a sweet/clean daily driver and a pristine, low mileage museum truck.....wait, that was me.......never mind.
One non-promotional example (no affiliation) with lots of things to like at a price point:
Just curious, is that crew cab ( pictured above ) a gas burner or a diesel?
"for just a few dollars more." - wardharris ...... I should put that on a vanity license plate. : )
That quote has applied to every vintage vehicle I have ever owned.
"for just a few dollars more." - wardharris ...... I should put that on a vanity license plate. : )
That quote has applied to every vintage vehicle I have ever owned.