speaking of back spacing anyone know the factory backspacing for my 89 pickup?
Tech Questions Here (2 Viewers)
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What I ended up doing.....
I decided on using the radio hole. I think it turned out pretty nice. There was no cutting or grinding on the dash- all I did was gently bend the radio knob tabs back, which could be bent back into shape if ever needed. I want to change the screws to something a little more trick, like security torx bolts. I made a template & may make more to put sell on mud eventually.
All buttoned up- gauges in & heater bolted back in
You can see how long the temperature gauge sensor is. On the left is the fitting that Paul fixed the threads on, which is threaded into the stock sensor fitting, which is threaded into the head. I have another stock temp sensor in the head, which I may get working eventually but for now I am going to wrap some insulation around this new one and call it good...
I'm still not driving the cruiser around regularly. I'm still going over it, making sure stuff is up to snuff. It's stuttering under load, body is bouncing on the frame (body mounts are shot in the back), etc.
Slowly getting there
I decided on using the radio hole. I think it turned out pretty nice. There was no cutting or grinding on the dash- all I did was gently bend the radio knob tabs back, which could be bent back into shape if ever needed. I want to change the screws to something a little more trick, like security torx bolts. I made a template & may make more to put sell on mud eventually.
All buttoned up- gauges in & heater bolted back in
You can see how long the temperature gauge sensor is. On the left is the fitting that Paul fixed the threads on, which is threaded into the stock sensor fitting, which is threaded into the head. I have another stock temp sensor in the head, which I may get working eventually but for now I am going to wrap some insulation around this new one and call it good...
I'm still not driving the cruiser around regularly. I'm still going over it, making sure stuff is up to snuff. It's stuttering under load, body is bouncing on the frame (body mounts are shot in the back), etc.
Slowly getting there
- Thread starter
- #443
I decided on using the radio hole. I think it turned out pretty nice. There was no cutting or grinding on the dash- all I did was gently bend the radio knob tabs back, which could be bent back into shape if ever needed. I want to change the screws to something a little more trick, like security torx bolts. I made a template & may make more to put sell on mud eventually.
All buttoned up- gauges in & heater bolted back in
You can see how long the temperature gauge sensor is. On the left is the fitting that Paul fixed the threads on, which is threaded into the stock sensor fitting, which is threaded into the head. I have another stock temp sensor in the head, which I may get working eventually but for now I am going to wrap some insulation around this new one and call it good...
I'm still not driving the cruiser around regularly. I'm still going over it, making sure stuff is up to snuff. It's stuttering under load, body is bouncing on the frame (body mounts are shot in the back), etc.
Slowly getting there
Looks good bud, what kind of gauges did you use?
Thanks! Autogage, maybe someday I'll step up to something nicer but it'll work for now.
I got my ford shock towers ordered yesterday. I am bolting them on since I am probably eventually going to flip the front springs & will need to move the towers.
- Thread starter
- #445
You ought to start a thread with all the work you're doing so we can see the before and after improvements you're making.
Think I'm going to go with the Stewart Waner gauges in the 78 like I had in the Evo. I had them mounted in the radio spot using this din panel below. Looking at yours you can only fit 2 gauges because the factory radio spot is not a full din.
Gauges.
Stewart Warner Gauges
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I thought about starting my own build thread but worried Scott would delete it due to inactivity 
(just kidding Scott ). I'll get something going when I install the shock towers & shocks.
(just kidding Scott ). I'll get something going when I install the shock towers & shocks.
- Thread starter
- #447
I thought about starting my own build thread but worried Scott would delete it due to inactivity
Nah! I'd put it back.
I'd encourage all of us that are doing work to start build threads. It gives other ideas and help with their projects. I for one enjoy seeing the progress on everyone's rig and I know the other folks on MUD do as well. I see folks all the time checking out Ricardo's thread and Scott's thread. I look forward to seeing it bud. 
I thought about starting my own build thread but worried Scott would delete it due to inactivity
LOL>.... you suck
I'm not sure any thread is more inactive than mine...
Last weekend I decided to order the AA twin sticks kit. I was spending way too much time trying to make a homemade one was still looking like a turd.
Anyway, I pulled the seats out and got the tranny hump off, and now I'm trying to think of things I can take care of before i put it back on and the seats back in. Here is what I've thought of, and please speak up if you can think of things I can do.
1. Thinking of cutting the tranny hump to where I can pull it out without removing the seats. I would keep a gap in it and run some T-shaped weatherstripping in between the two pieces. Good idea? or Bad??
2. Reverse switch. I moved the rubber cover off of it and it looks like the wires going to the terminals are frayed. I didn't get a chance to test for continuity. I'll try to solder them and see if it works.
3. Twin sticks
4. Maybe get a under-driver seat storage box.
Anyway, I pulled the seats out and got the tranny hump off, and now I'm trying to think of things I can take care of before i put it back on and the seats back in. Here is what I've thought of, and please speak up if you can think of things I can do.
1. Thinking of cutting the tranny hump to where I can pull it out without removing the seats. I would keep a gap in it and run some T-shaped weatherstripping in between the two pieces. Good idea? or Bad??
2. Reverse switch. I moved the rubber cover off of it and it looks like the wires going to the terminals are frayed. I didn't get a chance to test for continuity. I'll try to solder them and see if it works.
3. Twin sticks
4. Maybe get a under-driver seat storage box.
- Thread starter
- #450
Last weekend I decided to order the AA twin sticks kit. I was spending way too much time trying to make a homemade one was still looking like a turd.
Anyway, I pulled the seats out and got the tranny hump off, and now I'm trying to think of things I can take care of before i put it back on and the seats back in. Here is what I've thought of, and please speak up if you can think of things I can do.
1. Thinking of cutting the tranny hump to where I can pull it out without removing the seats. I would keep a gap in it and run some T-shaped weatherstripping in between the two pieces. Good idea? or Bad?? Noooooooooo! not a fan of cutting them besides you should never have to go back in there again. I've found most of the times with the exception of the transfer shifter I was able to do everything I needed to do without taking it off. Including getting to the top two tranny bolts out.
2. Reverse switch. I moved the rubber cover off of it and it looks like the wires going to the terminals are frayed. I didn't get a chance to test for continuity. I'll try to solder them and see if it works. If not repairable try grabbing one off of one of the rigs they are parting in the classifieds. I remember buying an OEM one and it not being cheap.
3. Twin sticks Sure
4. Maybe get a under-driver seat storage box Sure would be nice.
5. Check for leaks on the PTO cover drivers side at angle, and rear output cover at the top of the tranfer bubbled looking if leaking a good time to replace the gaskets. I just ordered them from Musson for the 67 and both were cheap. The tranfercase was just rebuilt a couple years ago so probably is good.
How did the starter job turn out?
Its also a good time to run some new fuel line through the hole in the floor through pass frame up to the front like it was from factory .
My .2
Anyway, I pulled the seats out and got the tranny hump off, and now I'm trying to think of things I can take care of before i put it back on and the seats back in. Here is what I've thought of, and please speak up if you can think of things I can do.
1. Thinking of cutting the tranny hump to where I can pull it out without removing the seats. I would keep a gap in it and run some T-shaped weatherstripping in between the two pieces. Good idea? or Bad?? Noooooooooo! not a fan of cutting them besides you should never have to go back in there again. I've found most of the times with the exception of the transfer shifter I was able to do everything I needed to do without taking it off. Including getting to the top two tranny bolts out.
2. Reverse switch. I moved the rubber cover off of it and it looks like the wires going to the terminals are frayed. I didn't get a chance to test for continuity. I'll try to solder them and see if it works. If not repairable try grabbing one off of one of the rigs they are parting in the classifieds. I remember buying an OEM one and it not being cheap.
3. Twin sticks Sure
4. Maybe get a under-driver seat storage box Sure would be nice.
5. Check for leaks on the PTO cover drivers side at angle, and rear output cover at the top of the tranfer bubbled looking if leaking a good time to replace the gaskets. I just ordered them from Musson for the 67 and both were cheap. The tranfercase was just rebuilt a couple years ago so probably is good.
How did the starter job turn out?
Its also a good time to run some new fuel line through the hole in the floor through pass frame up to the front like it was from factory .
My .2
i don't really want to talk about the "starter" problem because it will land me in the Thread of Shame. I'll chalk it up to inexperience....
I did get some new fuel line and a filter. The metal fuel line is run up under the truck and comes out kind of by the vents in the apron. I have about 2" of hose coming from the metal line, then the filter, then about 3' that I ran through a hole in the frame, up the frame, and out another hole right by the fuel pump.
Ok, I will take your advice on the hump.
Maybe I should run breather extensions? I saw the transfer case breather easily, but didnt really look around for the tranny one. I don't realy intend on going in anything deep enough to cover the stock breathers...but while I'm there?
I did get some new fuel line and a filter. The metal fuel line is run up under the truck and comes out kind of by the vents in the apron. I have about 2" of hose coming from the metal line, then the filter, then about 3' that I ran through a hole in the frame, up the frame, and out another hole right by the fuel pump.
Ok, I will take your advice on the hump.
Maybe I should run breather extensions? I saw the transfer case breather easily, but didnt really look around for the tranny one. I don't realy intend on going in anything deep enough to cover the stock breathers...but while I'm there?
Ohhh...I have after market gauges, autogage to be exact. They are not accurate using the stock toyota fuel sender. It reads 3/4 when full, and can run on empty for awhile. I've poked around on the net, and it seems the only way to get right is either use a stock gauge or a sending unit that is in the range of the aftermarket gauge. I'm not sure where I want to go with it...
- Thread starter
- #453
I had the same problem on my 70 after restoration ran out of gas on Amb Caffery :whoops: a nice couple gave me a ride to the pump and lent me his can. Still good people in the world. I had to take it back out and cut it to match the length of the factory sender and it was right on. I had the classic autometer set.
- Thread starter
- #454
I don't really want to talk about the "starter" problem because it will land me in the Thread of Shame. I'll chalk it up to inexperience.... I understand that happens and you won't forget the nest time
I did get some new fuel line and a filter. The metal fuel line is run up under the truck and comes out kind of by the vents in the apron. I have about 2" of hose coming from the metal line, then the filter, then about 3' that I ran through a hole in the frame, up the frame, and out another hole right by the fuel pump. Good to go
Ok, I will take your advice on the hump. You'll be glad you did
Maybe I should run breather extensions? I saw the transfer case breather easily, but didnt really look around for the tranny one. I don't realy intend on going in anything deep enough to cover the stock breathers...but while I'm there? I always did the axles but not the tranny and tranfer. The tranny is on the very top you'll see it with the hump off and the transfer vent is on top where the shift linkage hooks up on the flat cover. Never heard of anyone getting water in there but I'm sure it can be done I wouldn't think you'd have to worry to much as long as you were moving through the water. Writing this made me think of Badass at the SCC I think thats the deepest I've seen a 40. Waste deep in water with 35's.
For those that weren't there see the yellow 79 at the end.
I did get some new fuel line and a filter. The metal fuel line is run up under the truck and comes out kind of by the vents in the apron. I have about 2" of hose coming from the metal line, then the filter, then about 3' that I ran through a hole in the frame, up the frame, and out another hole right by the fuel pump. Good to go
Ok, I will take your advice on the hump. You'll be glad you did
Maybe I should run breather extensions? I saw the transfer case breather easily, but didnt really look around for the tranny one. I don't realy intend on going in anything deep enough to cover the stock breathers...but while I'm there? I always did the axles but not the tranny and tranfer. The tranny is on the very top you'll see it with the hump off and the transfer vent is on top where the shift linkage hooks up on the flat cover. Never heard of anyone getting water in there but I'm sure it can be done I wouldn't think you'd have to worry to much as long as you were moving through the water. Writing this made me think of Badass at the SCC I think thats the deepest I've seen a 40. Waste deep in water with 35's.
For those that weren't there see the yellow 79 at the end.
"Writing this made me think of Badass at the SCC I think thats the deepest I've seen a 40. Waste deep in water with 35's. "
That's exactly what I was thinking of. I don't think I'll be going through anything that will cover up the floorboard.
That's exactly what I was thinking of. I don't think I'll be going through anything that will cover up the floorboard.
How are Musson Patout's prices? Do they charge shipping on items not in stock?
Their prices aren't that bad. You could always call cruiserdan on this site to get a good deal on parts. coonass at Toyota of Dallas is helpful too.
- Thread starter
- #458
How are Musson Patout's prices? Do they charge shipping on items not in stock?[/quote
No Sir, there is no charge on shipping for ordered parts that are not in stock. Everything I order is not in stock
Thanks, plan on doing some work to the power steering. Try to seal up those leaks since it looks like I will be keeping the 4runner.
http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html
Toyota 3
http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html
Toyota 3
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- Thread starter
- #460
Thanks, plan on doing some work to the power steering. Try to seal up those leaks since it looks like I will be keeping the 4runner.
http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html
Toyota 3
Looks fun, good writeups.
Keeping the 4-Runner you decided against trying to find an older solid axle?