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Gauge mount location suggestions for my 75 FJ40?

My oil gauge is working but my temperature gauge isn't. I messed with it a bit but decided new gauges would be more accurate so I got a pair of 2 1/16" gauges for water temp & oil pressure.

I am looking for ideas on where to mount them. My '70 FJ40 was easy cause I didn't have a heater unit. On my '75 I have winch panel above the clutch/ brake pedal area (left side) and the heater unit on the right side. The ash tray is 2" and radio slot is over 2". I will need to make a plate to mount in either place. I'd like to take the old crappy radio out, so that might be an option. Proffitt's cruisers makes a nice ash tray plate for switches and I think that spot might work too- I don't want to cut the dash up.

These are the gauges: Auto gage 2326 - Auto gage Analog Gauge Consoles - summitracing.com

I'll try to take some pictures tonight of the dash area

Any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
 
BLKDOG40 said:
My oil gauge is working but my temperature gauge isn't. I messed with it a bit but decided new gauges would be more accurate so I got a pair of 2 1/16" gauges for water temp & oil pressure.

I am looking for ideas on where to mount them. My '70 FJ40 was easy cause I didn't have a heater unit. On my '75 I have winch panel above the clutch/ brake pedal area (left side) and the heater unit on the right side. The ash tray is 2" and radio slot is over 2". I will need to make a plate to mount in either place. I'd like to take the old ****py radio out, so that might be an option. Proffitt's cruisers makes a nice ash tray plate for switches and I think that spot might work too- I don't want to cut the dash up.

These are the gauges: Auto gage 2326 - Auto gage Analog Gauge Consoles - summitracing.com

I'll try to take some pictures tonight of the dash area

Any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
Click to expand...


Jason, my temp gauge went out on my 40 and I took the cluster apart and the big round connection port just needed some cleaning and better seating. I have also heard that the factory pins that go into the port are prone to never being fully pressed and crimped in at the factory.

Do you have room under the dash on the right side of the wheel. The area where the factory AC controls are? Mike mounted a diagnostics port there on his old 40 and I think Larry or someone else put some rocker switches there as well.
 
I will take a look at the cluster again & make sure the connections are good. I don't have a/c but will snap some pictures tonight, maybe that will get some ideas
 
sparkplug said:
Jason, my temp gauge went out on my 40 and I took the cluster apart and the big round connection port just needed some cleaning and better seating. I have also heard that the factory pins that go into the port are prone to never being fully pressed and crimped in at the factory.

Do you have room under the dash on the right side of the wheel. The area where the factory AC controls are? Mike mounted a diagnostics port there on his old 40 and I think Larry or someone else put some rocker switches there as well.
Click to expand...

Yep I like the stock gauges but want to add another set for caution will try to fit them in the radio postion I have a plate started with rocker switch for the winch and would like to add another for the factory carb fan and if I can an oil and temp gauge would be nice too :)
 
Just asking for someone else (seriously, I'm not considering this as a way to save on fuel expenses...yet). Someone is asking what would be a good diesel engine to throw in a 4Runner to try that veggie oil stuff. Is it possible?
 
Hi i'm new to the club but i am a huge diesel fan it can be done but it depends on the performance you want the 6.2 is a good diesel and it uses all the same mounts as a small block it is a misconception that it was based on a gas 350 but it was not it puts out 143 hp 247 tq you can also use the vw 1.9 and 1.6 acme makes a kit to bolt it to a toyota transmission the 1.9 is 100 hp and 177 tq the 1.6 is less can't remember the Mercedes om616 has been mated to a np435 and the guy has also mated the om617 to np435 Seriestrek - Extreme duty axles the om617 is a great engine but nobody makes an adapter yet 4x4 labs is trying to make a kit there is also the 4bt cumins very heavy lots of power 130 hp 310 tq and isuzu 4BDIT thats the most popular choices hope that helps
 
ruthless79 said:
Hi i'm new to the club but i am a huge diesel fan it can be done but it depends on the performance you want the 6.2 is a good diesel and it uses all the same mounts as a small block it is a misconception that it was based on a gas 350 but it was not it puts out 143 hp 247 tq you can also use the vw 1.9 and 1.6 acme makes a kit to bolt it to a toyota transmission the 1.9 is 100 hp and 177 tq the 1.6 is less can't remember the Mercedes om616 has been mated to a np435 and the guy has also mated the om617 to np435 Seriestrek - Extreme duty axles the om617 is a great engine but nobody makes an adapter yet 4x4 labs is trying to make a kit there is also the 4bt cumins very heavy lots of power 130 hp 310 tq and isuzu 4BDIT thats the most popular choices hope that helps
Click to expand...

Your input is always welcome bud. :)
 
How to Fix a Rear Shackle Inversion? Help...

I was wondering, based on the attached picture, if
1.) the rear shackles are inverted
2.) is there an easy way to fix
3.) would somone do this on purpose?
4.) if i were to fix (by jacking and hoping it corrects itself, prying it back), would it cause damage to the axle, drivetrain, etc
5.) would this correct a really rough ride?

Thanks Y'all
IMG00177.jpg
 
AVLFRK said:
I was wondering, based on the attached picture, if
1.) the rear shackles are inverted
2.) is there an easy way to fix
3.) would somone do this on purpose?
4.) if i were to fix (by jacking and hoping it corrects itself, prying it back), would it cause damage to the axle, drivetrain, etc
5.) would this correct a really rough ride?

Thanks Y'all
Click to expand...

That doesn't look good. Can you give some details on how you think this happened?

Have you tried to jack it up yet? That would be my first suggestion if you haven't. I would definitely say that will effect the ride comfort of your rig too.

Prying it down won't hurt the axle or anything else. Just make sure you have the wheels chocked and the truck on safe and stable jack stands.
 
1.) the rear shackles are inverted. Yes, not good :mad:
2.) is there an easy way to fix. For the time being jack the truck up and pry them right. Did this happen by putting the suspenion in a bind? What caused it? If it happens again your solution is cutting the perch then moving it to correct the angle and welding it in place. The springs, just the tiny bit I see look very worn I'd suggest new springs if you have alot of sagging in them and then you can leave the hangers in the stock position. If you were thinking of a lift now is a good time if you're not in to that look up your local spring shop and have them repair or duplicate the stockers and order some new poly bushing while you're at it and you'll be set for awhile.
3.) would somone do this on purpose? Not if you had any sense.
4.) if i were to fix (by jacking and hoping it corrects itself, prying it back), would it cause damage to the axle, drivetrain, etc. No covered that above.
5.) would this correct a really rough ride? Yes with the shackle inverted its bottomed out against the frame not allowing the shackle to travel creating a jarring or bouncy ride

Thanks Y'all, you're welcome let us know how it goes. :beer:
 
question about backspaces

i hear people having rubbing problems with 4.5 inch backspace and not with 4 inch, but the rims i am looking at have 5 inch backspace, is the bigger the backspace the further it sticks out?
 
example 15x8 with 5" back spacing will stick the tire out the fender a little.


15x8 with 3" back spacing will stick the tire out the fenders alot putting it away from suspension components but will put the tires closer to the sheet metal when they are at full turn.
 
Doable said:
example 15x8 with 5" back spacing will stick the tire out the fender a little.


15x8 with 3" back spacing will stick the tire out the fenders alot putting it away from suspension components but will put the tires closer to the sheet metal when they are at full turn.
Click to expand...

thanks that answered my question, that sucks cause the cheap rims i found on jegs wont works.. oh well... back to the drawing board
 
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