Tech Questions Here (8 Viewers)

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my81fj said:
It has the myself adjustment.:D
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Yep, the later 80 models had the e-brake cable running parallel with the rear axle like the mini-trucks and you can adjust it there. Alot of times when you put a lift it would either one cause slack or two it would be to tight and have to give slack. How's the locker do?
 
The Maintenance Thread

Isaac came up with the idea for a maintenance thread to help and support others. Its a great idea so here it is. :)
 
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The one thing that has bothered me with my cruisers is the slave and master cylinder. Mostly the slave. I hate having to drive home popping the clutch in traffic because my slave cylinder is shot. Over the years I have changed or honed out at least 8 slave cylinders. I don't know if anyone else has this problem or if I am just lucky. You can add years of life to your cylinders by changing the fluid once a year. What happens is that condensation builds up in your lines. Even though your clutch/break fluid is lubricating your lines and cylinders, the water from condensation is oxidizing your cylinder as well. Changing the fluid will keep cylinders smooth and rubber plunger from being worn down. Hope this helps.
 
Ok, I have looked at 125 threads on freeze plugs and I can't find any with my exact problem. A few weeks back I had a water leak. I thought it was comming from the engine drain plug. Not so lucky. My freeze plug has sprang a leak. It is directly under the manifold. I have never changed one before and there isnt much room for swinging a hammer. Has anyone changed this on a fj-60 while the motor was still in the truck? I think I have enough room to pry it out. Getting a new one in is going to be tricky. Can I use a puck jack to install the new one, or will I just create a huge hole in the side of my motor?
 
sparkplug said:
Ok, I have looked at 125 threads on freeze plugs and I can't find any with my exact problem. A few weeks back I had a water leak. I thought it was comming from the engine drain plug. Not so lucky. My freeze plug has sprang a leak. It is directly under the manifold. I have never changed one before and there isnt much room for swinging a hammer. Has anyone changed this on a fj-60 while the motor was still in the truck? I think I have enough room to pry it out. Getting a new one in is going to be tricky. Can I use a puck jack to install the new one, or will I just create a huge hole in the side of my motor?
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I've never had to change any in the truck if I had too and it was where you say it is I'd take the manifold/carb setup off which would drop the exaust down giving plenty room to work on it. It would also be a good time to fix that manifold leak. :D
 
I did the ultimate flush and refill a few years back on my 2F...don't recall having any issue(s) whatsoever...got the plugs easily...don't even recall having to order them....shouldn't take much to install. I drained my system completely...I even blew compressed air all around while i had the plugs off in case there was any loose debris etc...I was doing the header, so well, that side was totally opened up...definitely do what Larry suggested and fix that leak while your at it.

PS: There are more freeze plugs front and rear, but I doubt you wanna go there...
 
tabascoloco said:
I did the ultimate flush and refill a few years back on my 2F...don't recall having any issue(s) whatsoever...got the plugs easily...don't even recall having to order them....shouldn't take much to install. I drained my system completely...I even blew compressed air all around while i had the plugs off in case there was any loose debris etc...I was doing the header, so well, that side was totally opened up...definitely do what Larry suggested and fix that leak while your at it.

PS: There are more freeze plugs front and rear, but I doubt you wanna go there...
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Def don't want to go there. A little tid bit I've seen done on a few 40's was they cut an access door in the firewall from the inside to get to the rear freeze plug. I can't stand to see stuff like that. Isaac its not as bad as it seems PB blaster is your friend the worst that can heppen is a stud breaks in the head :doh: that would be bad. But look on the bright side I changed all the studs on the 67 and not one broke. Take digital pics before you take it off order new exaust manifold gaskets from Toyota with your freeze plugs I would change them all on that side while you have that all down. Soak the manifold bolts down real good the day before you dive into it it'll make breaking the bolts much easier. We'll coach you all the way. If not we can get to it at the next wrenching session but its not something you wanna risk driving like that. There is always the cheapo rubber plugs you can put in and tighten up to get you by for a little while I just wouldn't use them longterm.
 
tabascoloco said:
I did the ultimate flush and refill a few years back on my 2F...don't recall having any issue(s) whatsoever...got the plugs easily...don't even recall having to order them....shouldn't take much to install. I drained my system completely...I even blew compressed air all around while i had the plugs off in case there was any loose debris etc...I was doing the header, so well, that side was totally opened up...definitely do what Larry suggested and fix that leak while your at it.

PS: There are more freeze plugs front and rear, but I doubt you wanna go there...
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This is on my 60. Did you do this on a 60 or a 40?
 
Volunteer said:
Def don't want to go there. A little tid bit I've seen done on a few 40's was they cut an access door in the firewall from the inside to get to the rear freeze plug. I can't stand to see stuff like that. Isaac its not as bad as it seems PB blaster is your friend the worst that can heppen is a stud breaks in the head :doh: that would be bad. But look on the bright side I changed all the studs on the 67 and not one broke. Take digital pics before you take it off order new exaust manifold gaskets from Toyota with your freeze plugs I would change them all on that side while you have that all down. Soak the manifold bolts down real good the day before you dive into it it'll make breaking the bolts much easier. We'll coach you all the way. If not we can get to it at the next wrenching session but its not something you wanna risk driving like that. There is always the cheapo rubber plugs you can put in and tighten up to get you by for a little while I just wouldn't use them longterm.
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Thanks for the offer on the wrenching session. The leak is more like a waterfall. All coolant comes out in about 45 seconds. I will order parts and attempt to do this solo. I guess I am going to need paint pens in every color in the color spectrum for my smog and vacuum lines. It is time to get to know my cruiser a little better. I just hope it isn't a cracked block. I have heard the 80's have had this problem. will I need any special tools other than a torque wrench for the manifolds?

PS: I will take you up on your previous offer to fine tune the 40 with
the not so smooth idle problem. Hope to make it over to your side of the state for the next wrenching session and the dealership event. My only problem is I fish for a living, and my boss likes to fish on the weekends, last minute. :frown:
 
sparkplug said:
Thanks for the offer on the wrenching session. The leak is more like a waterfall. All coolant comes out in about 45 seconds. I will order parts and attempt to do this solo. I guess I am going to need paint pens in every color in the color spectrum for my smog and vacuum lines. It is time to get to know my cruiser a little better. I just hope it isn't a cracked block. I have heard the 80's have had this problem. will I need any special tools other than a torque wrench for the manifolds?

PS: I will take you up on your previous offer to fine tune the 40 with
the not so smooth idle problem. Hope to make it over to your side of the state for the next wrenching session and the dealership event. My only problem is I fish for a living, and my boss likes to fish on the weekends, last minute. :frown:
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I hope its not a cracked block either bud. :frown: Its no problem on the vaccume lines only thing important is if it has a vaccume retarded dizzy all the rest you can cap off and it should run fine. I would desmog it too while your at it but I understand that may be more than you want to fool with. You'll gain some added power breathing much better minus all the vaccume garbage. I'll be happy to help you liven up the 40 for the next wrenching session I'll put you down on the list. Not sure when it'll be if we can fit one in next month but if we're not able to get one in and your coming to Laf give a call and I'll make an exception and try to see what we can do for you since you can't always make them. :) Let us know how things are working out .
 
Well after the SCC I noticed that the 40 was running rough. So i changed the fuel filter and found trash in the filter. I drained the tank and found alittle trash in the tank but nothing to bad. I found that I missed capping of a line on the air intake that goes strait to the carb:whoops: not good that means that all that dust was going right into the carb. I changed the air filter and tha plugs sprayed alot of carb cleaner in the carb and put some STP treatment in the tank and it seems to have fixed the problem. So the short story is make sure you cap all the lines when de smogging your yota.
 
tabascoloco said:
I think we'd all benefit even better from a U-bolt flip kit. I'm sure you all know how much those cost. I've given it a lot of consideration, and I think that the old Pirate4x4 DIY solution is the best. I mean, for under $15 a piece plus some plate and bolts, you can have your only using very nice GM parts. I WON'T buy those U-bolt Flip Kits from you know who, only because I think they are outrageously priced. Anyway, if you all are interested in fabricating something, I say we at least look into using the GM axle stuff. It's very nice and proven. Here's a pic or two of the GM parts. BTW, they are $14.14 a piece from GMpartsdepot.com at this very moment....also, the last pic is the "Old School" way of doing it...this link to Pirate is pretty Old: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214334&page=2&highlight=ubolt+flip
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Mike,

Did you ever pursue this any further???

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I'm looking for some SOON. :)

Will the GM versions work for us??? What about u bolts? Make em?? O/W you're praying that they fit the hole pattern obviously.

Thanks for any help

me
 
PScottBx said:
Mike,

Did you ever pursue this any further???




I'm looking for some SOON. :)

Will the GM versions work for us??? What about u bolts? Make em?? O/W you're praying that they fit the hole pattern obviously.

Thanks for any help

me
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You'll need different u-bolts with the square end on the bottom of the spring to run those so don't get the ubolts in your kit.
 
Will have to look at the OME springs... if they are close to the stock ones I have now... the U bolts will have to be 4 foot long.

me
 
Installed fresh battery cables all around. There are 3 factory wires on the FJ40 and all three came with the kit that I won in the SCC. Incredible quality. All marine-grade. Lots of extras too. Included a factory Toyota Fusible link as well to replace your old one. They also include the ground from the starter to frame as well. I've done alot of upgrades over the years, and frankly, I thought my cables looked great. They are, however the original cables, and, though they look fine on the outside, they are likely corroded internally. In short, I would HIGHLY recommend a visit to Urban Land Cruisers website if you are looking for new cables:http://www.urbanlandcruisers.com/csfs/cables.php
Also, the instructions are very funny and make for a great read as well.
 
tabascoloco said:
Installed fresh battery cables all around. There are 3 factory wires on the FJ40 and all three came with the kit that I won in the SCC. Incredible quality. All marine-grade. Lots of extras too. Included a factory Toyota Fusible link as well to replace your old one. They also include the ground from the starter to frame as well. I've done alot of upgrades over the years, and frankly, I thought my cables looked great. They are, however the original cables, and, though they look fine on the outside, they are likely corroded internally. In short, I would HIGHLY recommend a visit to Urban Land Cruisers website if you are looking for new cables:http://www.urbanlandcruisers.com/csfs/cables.php
Also, the instructions are very funny and make for a great read as well.
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Very nice cables indeed. Can't wait to check it out. :)
 
Knuckle Rebuild

Besides the kit, what else is needed to do this project? All I've read indicates that it is a pretty easy job, just takes all weekend and is messy. Sound about right?

Putting that on my list of things to do.
 
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