Done
Tech Questions Here (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Volunteer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Done
Thanks Justin! Now have everything I needed to order my headlight conversion harness. Now the DEPO lights are going to be plug and play, with an upgrade......the high-beam filament in the H4 and the H1 bulb will both come on when I switch on the highs, giving me an extra bulb for high beams. This allows me to still add on another Slee AUX harness for some type of bumper mounted lights.
John (came with me to SCC) just bought a 2001 Tacoma with the 3.4. It's overdue for a timing belt. He's bringing it over this weekend to do just that. Are there any special tools, tips, tricks, etc. that I need?
- Thread starter
- #2,224
Great to hear bud, tell him congrats on picking up a nice rig. I did two 3.4's the wife's 4-Runner and my Taco the only thing that I remember having an issue with the first time was the hydraulic tensioner and had to head down to my father-in-laws to use his big vice to compress it. I used a nail to hold it in place until I was ready for it. At the time I couldn't find anything around the house to compress it. I did the 4-Runner at 100K and should have waited it looked great, the Taco had about 130 belt still looked ok but replaced it, the belt tensioner and waterpump while I was there figured it would last another 150K before I had to look at it again.
I have done 6 inch C clamps. Think that would work?
- Thread starter
- #2,226
I think I tried my 6 or 8 inch C clamp I use for calipers and it didn't budge but its worth the try. I do remember the one on the 4-Runner being much more difficult than the Taco's may had something to do with wear?
Thanks for the info. He's getting a new tensioner, so I may compress it and wire it collapsed so that it's out of the way and cut the wire when ready. I guess I'll see when we tear into it.
Could one of you mini truck guys with a straight cab make a measurement for me? I would like to know the gap for the windshield top to bottom, metal to metal. I'm thinking 6" in from the A pillar would be perfect.
thanks
thanks
well
1983 trailblazer it is a rubber sealed so can`t really get an accurate but apps 24 1/2
1985 4 runner is a glue in with metal trim 25 1/4 no trim left so this is a metal to metal.
1983 trailblazer it is a rubber sealed so can`t really get an accurate but apps 24 1/2
1985 4 runner is a glue in with metal trim 25 1/4 no trim left so this is a metal to metal.
Great. Thanks Paul!
How hard is it to change a rear axle seal on a FJ40? Is it the same as the Tacoma? Do i need to press the bearing off to put the seal on?
Or can i just pull axle out and change the seal out? 1974 Fj40...
Or can i just pull axle out and change the seal out? 1974 Fj40...
- Thread starter
- #2,232
How hard is it to change a rear axle seal on a FJ40? Is it the same as the Tacoma? Do i need to press the bearing off to put the seal on?
Piece of cake, not like the Tacoma though. Pop the rear diff cover, take out the center carrier pin to drop the c clip holding the axle in place then pull the axle and the seal is right there to pop out and pop in. Might wanna get some rear brake shoes if the seals were leaking you can bet the shoes are covered in oil and there is no cleaning them that oil soaks into the shoes. The good thing is you seal up the rear diff cover, change the leaking axle seals and get new rear brakes you won't have to go back in there for a long time
Thread here on mud for reference
Rear axle seal replacement difficulty level
