Tech Day, Saturday April 28th

[John Smith]

John, no problem. Although I have no problem letting a young'un such as yourself have a go at it.

So, then, the early cruisers have rear bearings like the mini trucks? Do you have a pipe or such to reinstall the new bearings?

They are not like minitruck. They are the same as ours with the exception of the bearing race that goes over the axle shaft. The bearing itself is seated in the axle tube just like the later cruisers. I don't have a piece of pipe with a large enough ID to drive it home. I have read that if you heat the race to 300deg F it will slide right onto the axle shaft. I figure if it needs some assistance we can use brass drifts to drive it home.

 

[greytandy]

Okay, at the risk of sounding like a total dumbass, what is a "bearing race"? I thought I understood what it was until this discussion progressed. I'll see it at the Tech Day, but still ...

 

[John Smith]

Okay, at the risk of sounding like a total dumbass, what is a "bearing race"? I thought I understood what it was until this discussion progressed. I'll see it at the Tech Day, but still ...

This is the race that goes on the axle shaft.

 

[greytandy]

This is the race that goes on the axle shaft.

Thanks John. Why are they so hard to remove from the shaft?

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Hmm. I have a 3' length of 1.5" schedule 40 that I use to separate birfs. I guess that's too big a diameter?

I also have brass hammers and lots of brass drifts.

 

[Herb]

Hmm. I have a 3' length of 1.5" schedule 40 that I use to separate birfs. I guess that's too big a diameter?

I also have brass hammers and lots of brass drifts.

The inner diameter of those races are 39mm, outer diameter is 45mm (beveled to 47mm)

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Hmm, looks like the 1.5" pipe is 1-2mm too small. I'll msr it to be sure.

 

[Herb]

Yep.....juuuuuuuuuust a bit small. Thanks for checking though.

1.5 inch = 38.1 millimeter

 

[H2o]

I have a tig welder if need be? tig might give us a little more control. I have not sure what the process but Mr John Smith should no.

 

[Herb]

This is going to be fun....

BTW, I currently have 2 jack stands and was planning on just jacking up the rear of the truck for the job. However, since we'll be working on the front output bearing too, should I get a coupla more jack stands and just have the whole truck up on stands?

 

[John Smith]

No need to lift the front of the truck. I would much prefer working on the truck while only the rear axle is on jack stands, much safer that way.

Sebastien, you are the guy bringing his welder. I would just bring a few sticks and your stinger. There is no need for the TIG side. Hopefully we won't even need to use it.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

My birf pipe measured 40-41mm id after I removed flare from pipe cutter machine. I'll bring it, we might get lucky.

 

[Herb]

That sure sounds like it will work....thanks for taking the time to look into that.

 

[Herb]

Are we going to have to drain the T-Case when we replace the front output bearing?

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Most likely yes. Especially if the nosecone comes off. and if it does, you'll need a new gasket for it where it attaches to the tcase. You do have a new seal for the nosecone by the front flange, right? Howabout a new flange nut? Not absolutely necessary, cause the old one can be reused, but better if new as the old one will have the locking punch marks.

 

[Herb]

Yep, I have the nose-cone gasket and the seal. I'll get more gear oil.....

 

[greytandy]

Yep, I have the nose-cone gasket and the seal. I'll get more gear oil.....

Don't forget to machine your kenifillin pin!

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Enough already, grey. At least Herb has his flux capacitor on standby.

 

[greytandy]

Enough already, grey. At least Herb has his flux capacitor on standby.

Yeah, but can Doug's 40 even get close to 88 MPH? If so, I can go back and renegotiate the cost of my 40.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Yeah, then I'll go back to 1967, and bring back a brandy new vw bug. Blue of course. Cram that, I'll just stay there and enjoy my youth again.