The valve may be adjusted too tight. Then the pushrod wouldn't rattle.
TDC is at beginning or end of CS?
- Thread starter drtyfun
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- Thread starter
- #23
This is a new-build motor I removed the original and had a machine shop rebuild it, they also put on the head and did the valves. In order to adjust valve or push rod, does piston need to be in a specific position of stroke? I do have the valve cover off.
Download the FSM. It explains it all.
http://www.trollholescruisers.com/Tech/Manuals/Engine/3FE REPAIR MANUAL.pdf
http://www.trollholescruisers.com/Tech/Manuals/Engine/3FE REPAIR MANUAL.pdf
- Thread starter
- #25
I have a FSM , I'm looking at section EM-31 now. I guess I'm gonna try adjusting the second or intake valve to see if it frees up the rocker any.
Check out EM-10
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- #27
If I am following or understanding EM-10 correctly wouldn't I fist need to have the engine actually start and run first??
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- #28
Is it relative or not , that when I attached the drive plate I may not have put it in the exact orientation that is was in before removing? Would this affect the placement of the marker pin and marks on the drive plate.
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- #29
Interesting. That's on my EM-9
It also is nearly identical to EM-31 in my FSM
It also is nearly identical to EM-31 in my FSM
- Thread starter
- #30
Here's what I'm working with.
- Thread starter
- #31
It appears that I couldn't really attach the drive plate incorrectly in terms of its rotative position. I believe there is a positioning post that I would have had to line up in order to fasten it to the crank flange.
- Thread starter
- #32
Is there something I'm missing, or maybe im looking in the wrong direction.
Here are the specific steps I'm taking. And the end result.
I remove distributor, remove spark plug at cylinder 1, set my TDC device in to plug hole, set up a flashlight pointed at the drive plate to better see the indicator dots. I see one large dot milled into the driveplate followed by two small dots, also milled into the drive plate.
Then I begin turning the crank looking for the indication of compression in cylinder 1. Once I see any compression begin to develop I then start to look at the driveplate for the approaching milled dots.
Once the timing pointer is pointed at the two small dots, I then set the distributor with rotor oriented as seen in the FSM , install cap. I then put back spark plug, all wires, and try to start. It fires but will not stay running, if I mess with the accelerator pedal it does not make anything better.
I could really use any help from anyone who may see what I'm missing. Thank you.
Here are the specific steps I'm taking. And the end result.
I remove distributor, remove spark plug at cylinder 1, set my TDC device in to plug hole, set up a flashlight pointed at the drive plate to better see the indicator dots. I see one large dot milled into the driveplate followed by two small dots, also milled into the drive plate.
Then I begin turning the crank looking for the indication of compression in cylinder 1. Once I see any compression begin to develop I then start to look at the driveplate for the approaching milled dots.
Once the timing pointer is pointed at the two small dots, I then set the distributor with rotor oriented as seen in the FSM , install cap. I then put back spark plug, all wires, and try to start. It fires but will not stay running, if I mess with the accelerator pedal it does not make anything better.
I could really use any help from anyone who may see what I'm missing. Thank you.
I've heard of 1 person who adjusts valves with the engine running & 1 with valves cold. Everyone else runs the engine to operating temp then does the adjustment. Adjust them cold. They should be very close to correct.
Here's a picture of the timing mark. It's the line, not the ball bearing. I found it easiest to remove the clutch inspection cover, jack up a rear wheel, and rotate the flywheel by hand. I also painted the line yellow to make it visible with the engine running.
