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TCCN sets his sights on metal filter housing users
- Thread starter dudemancool1904
- Start date
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I wonder whether he thinks the plastic part would be an upgrade for the poor IS-F and 70-series guys.
I’ll agree that the dorman part is junk though.
I’ll agree that the dorman part is junk though.
I stopped 2 min in when he says the oil filter stand pipe was missing. I can’t bear another 16 minutes, can someone please spoil the ending?
- Thread starter
- #4
The Dorman metal filter housing is a one size fits all with three different “standpipes,” which led to one of his customers grenading a 3ur. He also says don’t even mess with oem options, (ostensibly the Venza part) the bypass valve is not calibrated for a 3ur and will not work properly.
Him continuing to cite that undercuts his authority on the rest of the rant. That's not a bypass valve. It simply presses the filter element against it's sealing surface, and provides pressure for the housing drain valve at the bottom.
This one bothered me too. He’s got some great content and is a smart dude. Yes, Dorman parts can be junk - and clearly this one is. It can also be said that any proper part when used inappropriately can cause damage or catastrophe, OEM or not. This isn’t his best videos and honestly seems like it was published to drive engagement and views to keep his channel numbers up. That’s the only defense I can offer for him putting up this sort of trash.
End rant. Insert obligatory “all hail his name.”
End rant. Insert obligatory “all hail his name.”
We could look up the oil pressure levels in the FSM for both 3ur and venza engines to confirm/deny that but I would think if you reused the original spring from the old LC housing it would be the same.
I’ve got 95k on my @bjowett housing… thinking I’ve proven those are rock solid for those wondering.
- Thread starter
- #8
I think at the end of the day the guy is an OEM Nazi. I mean he even recommends Toyota oil. Can you fault him? Statistically probably not. But it’s part of his schtick at this point. I will say if I did live in Chicago I’d take my car to him.
Yeah I think the whole "coil spring bypass valve" thing was pretty thoroughly debunked in this thread. For others who would like to better understand - see post #57 in the thread below where bjowett posts a photo of the ACTUAL bypass valve (it's not a coil spring).
Plastic vs Metal - Battle of Oil Filter Housings - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/plastic-vs-metal-battle-of-oil-filter-housings.1337115/page-3
Also, I searched YouTube and found this video (link below) of a guy that describes 6 different types of oil filter bypass valves. At the 1:09 mark he basically laughs as he mentions that the "lower tension coil spring" does NOT provide bypass pressure relief. So it sounds like this myth might exist beyond just TCCN.
Also, I feel like any reasonable person could look inside an oil filter housing, examining the standpipe and coil spring, and conclude within seconds that the coil spring has no possible way of being part of a bypass mechanism.
That said, I have a hard time believing that the engines for which the Venza housing was designed are able to function at significantly lower oil pressures than the 3UR. Which makes me suspect that either of the bypass valves would work fine. But I guess I don't have a way to prove that.
Edit - the bypass valve is built into the base of the filter standpipe. So when you swap your original standpipe into a new (e.g. aluminum) filter housing, you still are using the OEM bypass valve.
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All hail his name
I agree with everything in this thread but my main takeaway was that Toyota dealerships can and do kill/harm/maim Land Cruisers.
Now excuse me as I order my head gaskets, it’s that time of year again…
all hail his name
I agree with everything in this thread but my main takeaway was that Toyota dealerships can and do kill/harm/maim Land Cruisers.
Now excuse me as I order my head gaskets, it’s that time of year again…
all hail his name
We use Toyota oil here at the shop as well. It's Mobil oil and cheap as hell. It's a no brainer, especially for warranty work.
I’m not tracking here. How does changing the cap do anything to the bypass valve in the filter stand?
That's right - if you swap the standpipe (use the LC standpipe in an aftermarket filter housing) then you are still using the OEM LC bypass valve. Just disregard my confusing post that you just quoted.
All hail his name
I agree with everything in this thread but my main takeaway was that Toyota dealerships can and do kill/harm/maim Land Cruisers.
Now excuse me as I order my head gaskets, it’s that time of year again…
all hail his name
@gasman4u I suspect techpriest TCCN has been tainted by chaos. I always thought his commentary on 3UR head gaskets was clickbait-y, and this is even worse. Having never watched his content and only seen what's been reported here, I'm taking anything he says with a big grain of salt.
I much prefer the OEM venza metal filter when you swap over the 3UR stand pipe.
That plastic filter becomes brittle with heat and age. Then the fins break off when you get it back from the dealership lube tech on your next oil change.
What monkey with a toolbox has actually ripped the threads from the block by over tightening the OEM metal filter? You would likely need to be using a breaker bar to do so.
That plastic filter becomes brittle with heat and age. Then the fins break off when you get it back from the dealership lube tech on your next oil change.
What monkey with a toolbox has actually ripped the threads from the block by over tightening the OEM metal filter? You would likely need to be using a breaker bar to do so.
Julian73
SILVER Star
The vehicle has two pressure relief valves. The high pressure limit is controlled by there review valve located within the oil house housing. This relief cycles oil back into the sump to control over pressure. The second relief is a bypass valve located within the oil filter that allows oil to bypass the filter element if the pressure difference gets too high due to a clogged filter. This valve is locate in the "top" of the filter (need away from engine block) and works by the filter lifting off its "seat" so oil can just flow past. insulin on filters its located in etc cap away from the threaded end and its spring rate is depended on the filter maker. In the individual element type oil filter that Toyota uses in a number of engine types including the 3UR, the spring is in the removable cap, so is used over and over with each oil change, but is supposedly a more durable item than used in the disposable canister type filters. The issue becomes, one cap may or may not have the same spring rate as another. But I'm sure they are all similar as its function has nothing todo with the engine's oil pressure need, but rather the degree of clog safety margin on the filtering medium. Yes the valves are crude and simple, but they are effective at allowing for continued oil flow when the pressure differential exceeds at few psi, like 10 +/-. Remember this is a differential so a 60 psi pump output could be flowing 50 psi to the engine when filtering is bypassed, whereas a hd bypass (say 20 psi) would be down to 40 psi to the engine before th protective bypass valve opened.
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I'd like to see an explanation of how hydraulic pressure through a clogged 3UR filter will cause it to lift off it's seat allowing the oil to bypass the clog. The flow path and forces I understand in there would just push the filter harder against the support tube if clogged.
Also the primary pressure relief valve recycles oil back to the suction side of the oil pump, not to the sump. In our rigs with the aux oil cooler (aka tow package on a tundra/sequoia) there is another bypass valve that allows the oil to bypass the heat exchanger if it's too thick.
Oil filter stand pics, since mine is currently cleaned up and on the shelf during my head gasket job.
Oil flows from the pump outlet into the lower of the large holes on this face
It then flows to the heat exchanger via the irregular hole between the two studs on the top right of this face. Note the inlet to the cooler bypass valve in the bottom of the irregular hole.
These two holes are for the heat exchanger
This plate makes sure oil goes where its supposed to.. On the filter stand itself at the very top of the passage is a hole that goes into the top of the filter cavity of the unit.
You can see that hole here.. then the big hole in the center is plumbed to the top hole in the first picture, which passes through the timing cover then into the main oil galley in the block.
Oil flowing in to the housing from the periphery will push inward on the filter element.. hence the need for a support tube. Then the oil flows into the hole in the center, and on to the oil galley.
There is no way (that I understand) for force in this system to push the filter away from its seat. Even in the linked video above, filters are shown that have no bypass provision, only a spring inside to push the element up against the attachment flange of the filter cartridge. Ours operate a lot like that.
Until someone can explain to me how hydraulic pressure can push the filter element away from it's upper sealing surface, that is not a bypass valve spring in the bottom of our housing.
Also the primary pressure relief valve recycles oil back to the suction side of the oil pump, not to the sump. In our rigs with the aux oil cooler (aka tow package on a tundra/sequoia) there is another bypass valve that allows the oil to bypass the heat exchanger if it's too thick.
Oil filter stand pics, since mine is currently cleaned up and on the shelf during my head gasket job.
Oil flows from the pump outlet into the lower of the large holes on this face
It then flows to the heat exchanger via the irregular hole between the two studs on the top right of this face. Note the inlet to the cooler bypass valve in the bottom of the irregular hole.
These two holes are for the heat exchanger
This plate makes sure oil goes where its supposed to.. On the filter stand itself at the very top of the passage is a hole that goes into the top of the filter cavity of the unit.
You can see that hole here.. then the big hole in the center is plumbed to the top hole in the first picture, which passes through the timing cover then into the main oil galley in the block.
Oil flowing in to the housing from the periphery will push inward on the filter element.. hence the need for a support tube. Then the oil flows into the hole in the center, and on to the oil galley.
There is no way (that I understand) for force in this system to push the filter away from its seat. Even in the linked video above, filters are shown that have no bypass provision, only a spring inside to push the element up against the attachment flange of the filter cartridge. Ours operate a lot like that.
Until someone can explain to me how hydraulic pressure can push the filter element away from it's upper sealing surface, that is not a bypass valve spring in the bottom of our housing.