TALLER tie rod end

[chicago]

So I discovered an issue w/ my 40's steering.
I snapped a pitman arm on the trail a couple weeks ago. I got to wondering WHY!!
I'm thinking what is happening is at full turn driver and articulated the drag link is hitting the leaf spring and applying force to the pitman arm which ultimately failed over time. I have a SR and the drag link was tight to begin with.
So what I NEED to happen is raise the tie rod end HIGHER UP.
I was wondering if there are taller TREs that are strong enough for wheeling??

 

[Fast Eddy]

Are you going to make us go back and read the whole monster thread for details on your setup?

I found this with a google search though.

Edit: Find the original of this one and zoom in and bump the brightness.

Edit too: This one too:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=623947&stc=1&d=1335044212

 

[chicago]

Are you going to make us go back and read the whole monster thread for details on your setup?

I found this with a google search though.

Edit: Find the original of this one and zoom in and bump the brightness.

Here goes...
I'm running fj80 tre's, 6 shooter knuckles and arms, SR, 60 series springs and axles set at 60 series spring width, flat sag pitman arm from 4x4labs.
The clearance issue is on the PS.

Way I see it is I have a couple options, but a taller TRE would be the easiest solution.
Possibly a y link tie rod and drag link set up.

 

[Fast Eddy]

So you can see marks/scratches there? Hmm. I remember this coming up during your build. That's when I decided to add blocks to the front of my springs to push them down.

How about doing the C&T again and adding another degree or two of caster?

 

[chicago]

That's an option, but a taller TRE would be much easier.
See where I'm going... EASIER!!
I found a camaro TRE that would give more height to the situation, but I'm just concerned about strength.
Can't find any higher profiler steer arms.
The GM 1 ton y link TRE could be an option, but I don't know much about that set up.
It essentially is a tab that you put the drag link through and the whole steering links operate off that.
Ruff stuff has the whole kit.

 

[chicago]

Here's a pic of The clearance (or lack of) w/ the steering clocked all the way to the DS.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Not sure, but I wonder if it's even possible to put enough force on the pitman arm from way over there to break it? When it broke, were you turning driver? How could it get more bound up than turning those big-ass tires? Damn glad it didn't happen on the freeway.

You're talking about making a new custom drag link to match a different TRE? If you went with a one-ton TRE, would you have to rebore the steering arms, or are they the same as the 80-series TREs?

 

[chicago]

Yeah man!!
I was on fordyce on a relatively flat part of the trail, but I was turning driver.
It's the only reason I can think of that would break a pitman arm unless it was just a bad cast.

 

[rusty_tlc]

We've seen the same thing on my truck, my drag link bent. Why would your pitman arm break instead of the DL bending???? I think the DOM in my DL is pretty close to what yours is made of.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

4x4 Labs can make a custom bent arm that will give more clearance. That is likely the cheapest option. I can't see a different or custom TRE.

I had to get a custom steering arm bend when I did the SOA on my 40 years ago.

 

[chicago]

4x4 Labs can make a custom bent arm that will give more clearance. That is likely the cheapest option. I can't see a different or custom TRE.

I had to get a custom steering arm bend when I did the SOA on my 40 years ago.

Thanks Andy!!
I'll ask luke about that option, then as that would be the best solution.
I didn't know that he (or anyone) did that.

 

[chicago]

We've seen the same thing on my truck, my drag link bent. Why would your pitman arm break instead of the DL bending???? I think the DOM in my DL is pretty close to what yours is made of.

Donno...
My TR and DL is 1.25, 1/4 wall and is straight.
However, I was looking at the pitman arm and it DOES appear bent at the TRE of the arm.
Something out of norm happened.

 

[DirtyHarry]

4x4 Labs can make a custom bent arm that will give more clearance. That is likely the cheapest option. I can't see a different or custom TRE.

I had to get a custom steering arm bend when I did the SOA on my 40 years ago.

When you say "custom arm" Andy are you referring to the pitman arm or the steering arm? If it is available I think that a taller steering arm would solve Chicago's problems.

I am concerned that a taller tie rod end would have additional (and maybe too much?) leverage on it.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Luke can change the rise on the steering arm (not the Pitman) to get more clearance over the spring. As I said, when I put the 40 together, the tie rod would drag on the spring at full lock. I took the arm back up to Luke who gave it 1/2 inch more rise in his Ironworker. His steering arms are plate steel, and so can be bent a bit. It's been fine ever since.

 

[DirtyHarry]

Luke can change the rise on the steering arm (not the Pitman) to get more clearance over the spring. As I said, when I put the 40 together, the tie rod would drag on the spring at full lock. I took the arm back up to Luke who gave it 1/2 inch more rise in his Ironworker. His steering arms are plate steel, and so can be bent a bit. It's been fine ever since.

That would likely be the best solution for Chicago as well. Time for a road trip to Nevada City.

 

[chicago]

Thanks Andy!!

Got an e mail into him re. this.

 

[Fast Eddy]

However, I was looking at the pitman arm and it DOES appear bent at the TRE of the arm.
Something out of norm happened.

But it's not twisted, as it would be if the force came from 3' over to the right. It also doesn't look broken to me??

From reading the whole thread, and especially seeing the picture of the tie rod/spring contact, which is not as scratched/marred as it would have to be to break a pitman 3' over to the left, I'm guessing you hit the pitman directly onto something.

If I was you, I'd get one of the good snap-on pullers and carry it and a spare around with you until you figure out what broke it.

https://www.google.com/#q=CJ119B&safe=off

 

[Cruiserdrew]

But it's not twisted, as it would be if the force came from 3' over to the right. It also doesn't look broken to me??

From reading the whole thread, and especially seeing the picture of the tie rod/spring contact, which is not as scratched/marred as it would have to be to break a pitman 3' over to the left, I'm guessing you hit the pitman directly onto something.

If I was you, I'd get one of the good snap-on pullers and carry it and a spare around with you until you figure out what broke it.

https://www.google.com/#q=CJ119B&safe=off

That's a good thought. Maybe you just hit it on a rock.

But still, spring contact like that is bad, and you need to address it in some way.

Didn't you also break your Pittman arm on your FJ62? Maybe the problem is the proverbial "nut behind the wheel". You don't know your own strength.

 

[chicago]

Thanks Andy!!

Got an e mail into him re. this.

 

[chicago]

That's a good thought. Maybe you just hit it on a rock.

But still, spring contact like that is bad, and you need to address it in some way.

Didn't you also break your Pittman arm on your FJ62? Maybe the problem is the proverbial "nut behind the wheel". You don't know your own strength.

Hahaha!!
For most people that could be true, but I'm not a "hammer down" wheeler and tend to be pretty cautious.
Yes, I DID break a pitman arm on the 62, BUT that arm was recalled by marlin for a bad cast batch.
Eddie,
Since the arm break on the 62 I've carried a puller and pickle fork and the arm that I got to get me OUT of the trail will now be my spare.
Here's the BROKEN pic of the arm. Where its cracked IS the side where the force would be applied.