Bump
Tach Hookup - FJ60 12H-T install
- Thread starter circle456
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Let me bring this "RPM Tach Gauge and Sender" back up in a simple question.
I have converted a HJ60 2H to a 12HT Engine. I have the original 2H sending unit on the original bell housing.
However, I purchased a new dash instrument cluster from a FJ60 (2F) and the RPM gauge does not work with the sender.
What are my options? I the 2F sender won't work on the 2H/12HT bell housing fly wheel? If so, that would be an easy fix as the dash has the RPM Tach for a 2F.
If not, then do I just need to get a 2H gauge to fit on the HJ60 dash...?
I have converted a HJ60 2H to a 12HT Engine. I have the original 2H sending unit on the original bell housing.
However, I purchased a new dash instrument cluster from a FJ60 (2F) and the RPM gauge does not work with the sender.
What are my options? I the 2F sender won't work on the 2H/12HT bell housing fly wheel? If so, that would be an easy fix as the dash has the RPM Tach for a 2F.
If not, then do I just need to get a 2H gauge to fit on the HJ60 dash...?
Hi,
some HJ60 gauges will work with the 12HT if and only if the gauge is the correct voltage. The engine I originally purchased in this thread was equipped for an HJ60 with Nato 24-Volt electrical system and the accompany gauge from that vehicle was also setup for 24-volts. You can't mix and match 12 and 24 gauges unless you modify the internal circuitry of the gauge or supply the correct voltage to it.
I hope that helps!
Best,
Eric
Yes, both will be 12volts. The bellhousing is the same on the 12HT and 2H. Should be no brainier, now that i know the circuitry is different on the 2F vs 2H Tach in the dash.
Do you have both parts? I think you were gathering some at one point? I need the cluster Tach for a HJ60 2H and the 83180-60040 sender pickup (revolution dector)
I’ve just completed this myself. If the tach is the same voltage as the wiring harness
providing power then you are okay. 12v to 12v. What I’d suggest is bypassing the
wiring harness. Run the two wires from the bell housing sender directly to the tach
at the back of the tach. I’m going to post the pics from pg 2 back up.
Middle wire is power from ignition. The two outer wires are the sensor wires. Connect one
wire to each of the outer connections. Initially I removed the two factory wires but it didn’t
work, so on a hunch I reconnected them. So there will be two wires at each connection point.
Fire it up. If it doesn’t work, try swapping the two outer wires to the other side. Not the original
factory connections, just the new ones.
providing power then you are okay. 12v to 12v. What I’d suggest is bypassing the
wiring harness. Run the two wires from the bell housing sender directly to the tach
at the back of the tach. I’m going to post the pics from pg 2 back up.
Middle wire is power from ignition. The two outer wires are the sensor wires. Connect one
wire to each of the outer connections. Initially I removed the two factory wires but it didn’t
work, so on a hunch I reconnected them. So there will be two wires at each connection point.
Fire it up. If it doesn’t work, try swapping the two outer wires to the other side. Not the original
factory connections, just the new ones.
To be clear, you were able to get the 2F Cluster Tach to work this way using a 2H Sender Revolution Detector? Or was this the 2H Cluster Tach to a 2H Sender?
Mine was a 12HT sender to a 12V 3B tach/gauge cluster with a 12V 2F wiring harness.
That’s why I bypassed the harness, but left the Factory wiring in the gauge cluster
intact for continuity.
That’s why I bypassed the harness, but left the Factory wiring in the gauge cluster
intact for continuity.
Wow that was alot of reading (it's good I couldn't sleep) but very informative, thankyou all. I should be able to get tach that came with 12ht and sensor to work in fj62 shell now.
Now to work on the 2 LEDs and their respective wiring and valves.
Now to work on the 2 LEDs and their respective wiring and valves.
So the first (red) is sensor signal (first sensor wire) second/middle (black-yellow) is power (from ignition) and the third (black) is common ground for both the tach and the sensor's second wire?
Ya don’t mess with center ignition wire. Just add the 2 sensor wires and I’d intent working they swapping them across. 5 yrs. I can only go by what I wrote.
I'm just trying to wire up the stock 24V tach and a sensor and can't find a diagram where the wire colors are readable. My system is 24V so it should be straightforward, but I don't want to mess up power polarity.
Why not mess with it? How's the tach supposed to get power if I don't use the IGN wire, which should be the power in the first place?
Ironic, I had a 24V tach but it will not work with 12V of my truck. Mine is a 12HT converted to 12V. Taken a long time to get itI'm just trying to wire up the stock 24V tach and a sensor and can't find a diagram where the wire colors are readable. My system is 24V so it should be straightforward, but I don't want to mess up power polarity.
Why not mess with it? How's the tach supposed to get power if I don't use the IGN wire, which should be the power in the first place?
all to work without failing somewhere really far from home.
Contact Marteen @ Cruiserworld.eu He will be able to help you maybe just get the correct tach as the EU has 24V
