Tach adapting for V8

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@rhah Dakota Digital makes a converter that works to convert the LS tach signal (low-voltage square wave) into a signal that the 60 tach can read. Which I believe needs to be high-voltage square wave. At least this is the best i've figured so far, I'm in the same boat trying to figure out how I want to solve the stock tach with an LS issue
 
@rhah Dakota Digital makes a converter that works to convert the LS tach signal (low-voltage square wave) into a signal that the 60 tach can read. Which I believe needs to be high-voltage square wave. At least this is the best i've figured so far, I'm in the same boat trying to figure out how I want to solve the stock tach with an LS issue

Stock rack and temp is where I’m at everything else is Hooked up and reading properly, just trying to get away from and old cell phone and WiFi od2 reader, it works and it’s cheap just want my dash to tell me haha

so yes LS temp and tach is on the list of needing done.
 
Stock rack and temp is where I’m at everything else is Hooked up and reading properly, just trying to get away from and old cell phone and WiFi od2 reader, it works and it’s cheap just want my dash to tell me haha

so yes LS temp and tach is on the list of needing done.

Easy button is the Autogage 3-wire hookup. Looks pretty stock and is easy to install. Only downside is it has a white pointer instead of orange but i doubt you care that much.
Temp sender is easy too
 
Dakota digital is easy and stock look retained, though I did use an fj62 tach for a higher redline.
 
@rhah For temp, take your stock 2f temp sensor and file the threads down and re-thread it to fit the LS block. There's an unused spot on the passenger side head that is perfect. How to write up below.

 
@rhah For temp, take your stock 2f temp sensor and file the threads down and re-thread it to fit the LS block. There's an unused spot on the passenger side head that is perfect. How to write up below.

That sir is genius!! Will get on that today.... bring on the stock temp gauge!
 
I know this thread is a million years old but since it's in the FAQ I thought I would add some detail. I just upgraded my stock tach to work with the SBC 350. A few clarifying details, I put the potentiometer inline with the red wire as the very first post says (unlike the link above which is across terminals). Also, I used a 100k 28 turn pot. Even this seemed like it was too much resistance (perhaps OP was correct when he said 200 ohms?).

The key to getting this correct is a many turn pot. The tunability is pretty important. If I was doing this again I would experiment with a much smaller resistance potentiometer with many turns.

I also found an image online of a 6k fj60 colors tach and printed it out. And don't snap the needle like I did!

View attachment 1473622 View attachment 1473623 View attachment 1473624
 
I know this thread is a million years old but since it's in the FAQ I thought I would add some detail. I just upgraded my stock tach to work with the SBC 350. A few clarifying details, I put the potentiometer inline with the red wire as the very first post says (unlike the link above which is across terminals). Also, I used a 100k 28 turn pot. Even this seemed like it was too much resistance (perhaps OP was correct when he said 200 ohms?).

The key to getting this correct is a many turn pot. The tunability is pretty important. If I was doing this again I would experiment with a much smaller resistance potentiometer with many turns.

I also found an image online of a 6k fj60 colors tach and printed it out. And don't snap the needle like I did!

View attachment 1473622 View attachment 1473623 View attachment 1473624
Hello! Do you still have the image of the 7k tach background?
 

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