T-Case hi/low detent spring (2 Viewers)

[srgould41]

Can the spring for the hi/low/neutral detent ball be shimmed or replaced with a stiffer spring without causing damage? I have not torn into mine yet. I imagine the cottor pin won't be sufficient to hold a stiffer spring either.

I need to stiffen up the shift linkage and am looking for ideas.

Thanks

 

[Poser]

I would open up the transfer case and figure out why it will not stay in gear in a stock configuration before anything else.


The shift linkage does not keep the transfer case in gear. It can however, provide a reason why it would not stay in gear.

 

[srgould41]

Poser, thanks for your reply. I should have written more about the situation. I had asked about an issue I have in another post, but I figured I would create a more pointed post about the problem.

I have a dual stick shifter that I made. The hi/low shifter shifts way too easily such that even pressure from the boot can cause it to jump out of gear. I have the throws set as short as possible at the tcase and as long as possible at the handle to limit any mechanical advantage, but it isn't enough.

So I am looking at ways to stiffen up the linkage so the tcase stays in gear. One way would be to stiffen up the detent inside the case. In my other post someone had suggested wavy washers which I think I could put under the lever on the tcase and an other under the nut that retains the shifters at their pivot point.

If none of the above work I will need to create some sort of detent for the shift lever itself.

 

[Poser]

Well, when you have the case apart, you will see how the range selection detent set up works; there is no reason to shim it as it is a threaded fastener that makes the tension on the spring and ball tighter, the closer the screw is to the ball.


You can get a general idea of what I am talking about HERE


However, there are other reasons why the case may not stay in gear and you have found, just as many with the Orion have found, that it is not the case that is the issue with it not staying in gear, but rather, the shift linkage on the vehicle creating the issue.

If there is a lot of play on your range selection collar you will want to replace that, also, you will likely want to use stepped thrust washers to remove some of the free play that is inherent in the high and low speed gears on the main shaft. None of this will be obvious until the case is out of the vehicle and inspected.


Again,

If you remove your shift linkage and the transfer case stays in gear, the transfer case is not the issue.

 

[srgould41]

Thanks Poser. That helps a great deal. I'll get inside and see what I have to work with if I can't snug up my custom shift linkage.

 

[srgould41]

I don't have any pictures of what I did, but it was easy, sort of. I removed the propeller mount from the back of the case, lowered the case about 3" to gain enough room at the top to work on it. After removing the top cover I looked inside. The detent ball is held in by a threaded plug that has a slot in it for a screwdriver which also is used to secure the plug by running a cotter pin through the channel formed by the slot.

So I removed the plug, cut the end of a bolt off that was larger than the spring diameter, yet smaller than the plug. I made it about 1/4" long. I put it on top of the spring and then screwed the plug back in. I had to be very careful not to drop anything inside the case.

It was perfect! I now have the right amount of pressure in each detent to keep the stick in place and not shift by itself. I had just enough space in the screwdriver slot to put a new cotter pin in.

Problem resolved. This was a good opportunity to fix a flaw in my tcase mount too. The mount had no provision to allow oil to drain from the bearing cavity back into the case. I drilled a hole all the way through the mount aligned to the oil return hole then drilled the side facing the case with a series of holes to form a slot on that side for the oil to go down to the drain hole.