Swaybar Rusted Off....

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Yup, I removed mine due to a broken link (bar was intact) and I didn't have to remove torsion bars to do so.
Can't remember the details otherwise... was a quick job when we first bought ours.
 
Man.....quite the stream of conciousness here.

Sounds like you bought a rusty truck unfortunately. Lesson learned....
 
Yeah sway bar can come out without taking anything else apart. Just takes a minute to rotate it and thread it out.
 
You can remove the sway bar without removing the torsion bars.

It's easier to do on a lift and isn't a complicated job - just a frustrating one. If it were me I'd grind the bolt heads off or throw on a breaker and snap them. Then I'd bring it to a shop and pay them to drill and tap the holes.
 
For what a tech would charge to drill and tap- you can buy ( and keep for the next snapped hardware) some nice tools and DIY.

Dewalt 20v right angle drill: $89 (tool only)
Milwaukee titanium nitride drill bit kit: $25- these titanium bits chew through rusted snapped hardware like butta.
Cheap-o Tap set: $15
Hardware: $10-15
PVC vinyl tube: $3( to re-route your A/C drain so that it doesn't drip on your sway bar mount any longer. )
 
I was working on producing a replacement mount but I've been busy trying to locate a pack of toilet paper among other things. Sales dropped off in the past week so I'm going to put it on hold indefinitely. Sorry to those who were waiting for it.
 
I've never looked back. Running without the front sway bar for almost 100,000 miles now, better with stiff t-bars for sure (running IronMan T-bars on mine with Slee shocks and I like it a lot)
 
Man.....quite the stream of conciousness here.

Sounds like you bought a rusty truck unfortunately. Lesson learned....
I’ve had the truck for 4 going on 5 years. The truck is only 13 years old now.

the other owner never went off roading. The day I got it it started getting muddy.

our salt and chemical ice removers just absolutely trash vehicles and Toyota frames.

the rustiest part is that passenger swaybar. I guess because the ac drips on it making it even s***tier and rustier.

I removed the torsion bars two years ago when I did the old man emu lift and I had to use a 20 ton bottle jack leveraged sideways to pump and push those bars out. That took some clever thinking but I am so not ready to take the bars out again. Plus this time I’m in my driveway.

now I have snow on the ground and corona virus all around me so getting help is next to impossible right now.

I really think it’s just the rusty bracket holding onto the swaybar preventing it from getting good angles to slide past the torsion bars or the drive shaft.

the rest of my truck is not complete trash tier but this one area is. There should be a class action suit on Toyota for ac drain location rusting out brackets.
 
I’ve had the truck for 4 going on 5 years. The truck is only 13 years old now.

the other owner never went off roading. The day I got it it started getting muddy.

our salt and chemical ice removers just absolutely trash vehicles and Toyota frames.

the rustiest part is that passenger swaybar. I guess because the ac drips on it making it even s***tier and rustier.

I removed the torsion bars two years ago when I did the old man emu lift and I had to use a 20 ton bottle jack leveraged sideways to pump and push those bars out. That took some clever thinking but I am so not ready to take the bars out again. Plus this time I’m in my driveway.

now I have snow on the ground and corona virus all around me so getting help is next to impossible right now.

I really think it’s just the rusty bracket holding onto the swaybar preventing it from getting good angles to slide past the torsion bars or the drive shaft.

the rest of my truck is not complete trash tier but this one area is. There should be a class action suit on Toyota for ac drain location rusting out brackets.

sounds like you should just cut it off
 
I don’t have a sawzal............. I can’t drive to get one either because my truck is my daily....

Because I’m a f***ing scrub noob newbie
I like your attitude man. Keeping it 100.
 
I don’t have a sawzal............. I can’t drive to get one either because my truck is my daily....

Because I’m a f***ing scrub noob newbie
Okay I got the rusted off mount off the swaybar but i think with the diff drop the drive line sits lower making removal of the front swaybar impossisble.....

Or I’m just really bad at rotation puzzles.
 
Okay I got the rusted off mount off the swaybar but i think with the diff drop the drive line sits lower making removal of the front swaybar impossisble.....

Or I’m just really bad at rotation puzzles.
Maybe if I had another set of hands and eyes on the other side but lying on my back or standing to the side with the tires off this seems impossible.

I can’t stop trying because I need the truck.....

If it comes down to it im getting my metal file and going to town and filing all the way through prison style..... and I don’t mean prison pouch.

arghghfjdngnggngngfnsjsjejfbrjsjsjd **** fucjity ****fuck **** ****!!!!!!!!!!! ****
 
Mine did the same. I fabbed up a new bracket out of 1/8" angle like others have said and cleaned the frame and welded it back on.
 
Its completely disconnected from frame, links, and LCA’s right?
 
Maybe if I had another set of hands and eyes on the other side but lying on my back or standing to the side with the tires off this seems impossible.

I can’t stop trying because I need the truck.....

If it comes down to it im getting my metal file and going to town and filing all the way through prison style..... and I don’t mean prison pouch.

arghghfjdngnggngngfnsjsjejfbrjsjsjd f*** fucjity f******* f*** f***!!!!!!!!!!! f***
If your situation is dire, and you have to use the truck, cut the sway bar with an angle grinder and remove it. You can source another sway bar later, once you've addressed the broken mounting bolts, etc.
 
You can drive it with that mount broken, mine is mostly rusted off kind of hanging by a thread. It doesn't move much, I'm not lifted though, so maybe yours has more room to bang around. If your endlinks and the other mount are intact it's not going anywhere , at least temporarily. I'm not going to admit on here how long I have been driving on mine with it broken, because I don't want a lecture. It's been awhile though.
 
Seriously dude.... breath.

You can drive around with that mount loose, the sway bar will just clank around a bit but it won’t hurt anything. Secure it with a ratchet strap if you’d like. Go to a shop and have a new mount welded on. No need to remove your t-bars. The freak out is unnecessary.

Protect your frame with a product like fluid film afterwards... it will prevent anything like this happening again.
 
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If there’s a lot of rust and wear and you’re feeling the need to clean up and rehab the bar anyway, there’s a good chance the eyes are worn in the ends. I replaced my bar just because of this. You can put in new links and bushings but if the eyes in the bar ends have opened up over time with rust/use/etc then it won’t be right anyway and a waste of your new parts. Have a look at the bar ends and measure the holes. Search on here will tell you the diameter the holes should be and thickness of the metal there. If it’s not right just cut it out anyway and replace I don’t remember how expensive it is.

When Jason gets his SAS kits out you’ll be able to find some cheap takeoffs to replace it with.
 

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