So, my lift has been putting the hurt on my sway bar links on the rear axle. The stock length throws off the angle and they rake forward after the geometry of the lift is applied. My threads on the top of the link stud eventually just gave way and rusted so much that it was difficult to remove the nuts. I had to do something and I've seen my buddies at ACC use this trick.
New Ingredients:
stock sway bar links
Energy Suspension universal sway link kit (http://a.co/2vP9lyi)
welder
Step one, cut your links cleanly in half.
And from the $20 universal kit, you just need the steel sleeves. Of course if you have some scrap steel that fits the bill, by all means, save $20.
Measure the space you are trying to link between the frame mount and the sway bar. You will need to consider that you want weld about 1/2" away from the ball joint end so as not to overheat it. Cut the sleeves to the appropriate length. Then weld the sleeve onto the sway link ends.
I ended up needing about 1.25" additional over the stock length to achieve this. I also reused the rubber bushing set on top. If you desired, you could use the poly bushings that come with the universal kit.
New Ingredients:
stock sway bar links
Energy Suspension universal sway link kit (http://a.co/2vP9lyi)
welder
Step one, cut your links cleanly in half.
And from the $20 universal kit, you just need the steel sleeves. Of course if you have some scrap steel that fits the bill, by all means, save $20.
Measure the space you are trying to link between the frame mount and the sway bar. You will need to consider that you want weld about 1/2" away from the ball joint end so as not to overheat it. Cut the sleeves to the appropriate length. Then weld the sleeve onto the sway link ends.
I ended up needing about 1.25" additional over the stock length to achieve this. I also reused the rubber bushing set on top. If you desired, you could use the poly bushings that come with the universal kit.
