Resurecting to ask a dumb question. Shocks, sways, brake lines, or binding...which limits front articulation on a stock Cruiser?
Suspension travel upgrades on an 80
- Thread starter T Y L E R
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Tyler,
I agree that the five link will more than do the job. My son is a low rider builder and he wants to slam my 80. He says the five link is better for goin gdown than it is for up, and we all know it works out like no other for that. I alsoagree that the Shortbus will give you a lot to consider about what these babies are capable of.
Personally, I don't care what your bit is with the avtar. Thsi site seems to be all about individualism, and not being judged for things we're passioanate about.
Later...
I agree that the five link will more than do the job. My son is a low rider builder and he wants to slam my 80. He says the five link is better for goin gdown than it is for up, and we all know it works out like no other for that. I alsoagree that the Shortbus will give you a lot to consider about what these babies are capable of.
Personally, I don't care what your bit is with the avtar. Thsi site seems to be all about individualism, and not being judged for things we're passioanate about.
Later...
boy did I blunder the English language on that last soap box or what?
Nobody can tell me what the "primary binding on the 80" is?
Primary Binding on an 80...
1 the swaybars
2 the front control arms, jackson has the solution to this, give it time to see what happens on the trail over time. After this someone should take what he did and improve on it if possible.
3 depending on lift / tires the inside of the rear fenderwells mine are shiny
Sometimes binding is our friend thats what the swaybars do...
I really think the 6" has a great balance of stability, twist and travel. Anything more than this and one is creating a off road only suspension dedicated to a certain type of off roading. My intent is to have a super versitile machine for on road, rocks, trailriding, hill climbing, mudbogging etc.
Kirk
1 the swaybars
2 the front control arms, jackson has the solution to this, give it time to see what happens on the trail over time. After this someone should take what he did and improve on it if possible.
3 depending on lift / tires the inside of the rear fenderwells mine are shiny
Sometimes binding is our friend thats what the swaybars do...
I really think the 6" has a great balance of stability, twist and travel. Anything more than this and one is creating a off road only suspension dedicated to a certain type of off roading. My intent is to have a super versitile machine for on road, rocks, trailriding, hill climbing, mudbogging etc.
Kirk
So stock, the shocks are in the correct position, not wasting any travel?
Humm...
Well I would bet in certain circumstances (ones that I have not experienced but someone I bet has) there could be an issue of the shock position too high or low. If someone has experienced shock position problems with their rig chime in I am all ears.
As suspension lift is added if the new shock length is selected properly then there should be no problem. I think the other issues I mentioned before cause a bind or interference before the shocks become a stopper. All these issues are definetely case specific to each of our trucks. tires,lift etc play a huge role in this.
Kirk
Well I would bet in certain circumstances (ones that I have not experienced but someone I bet has) there could be an issue of the shock position too high or low. If someone has experienced shock position problems with their rig chime in I am all ears.
As suspension lift is added if the new shock length is selected properly then there should be no problem. I think the other issues I mentioned before cause a bind or interference before the shocks become a stopper. All these issues are definetely case specific to each of our trucks. tires,lift etc play a huge role in this.
Kirk
All I'm trying to do is get the most out of my stock height Cruiser. I only need 1" (OME stock height springs will do the trick), to clear EVERYTHING I want to at Uwharries, add 33/34's, and sliders then I'm set, but the front articulation leaves a lot to be desired and I'm wanting to get every bit I can out of a low-lift truck.
Nay & WE,
I see what you're getting at. IIRC AJ moved his upper shock mounts for just such a reason.
http://www.actionjackson.com/cruiser/mods/20041231.asp
I can certainly see that the OME shock setup is less than ideal for any of their lifts. This is something I'd like to look into prior to lifting my 80, the only trouble is...apartment living (not having a decent shop avaliable). I need to research a little more on this and see what's out there.
I see what you're getting at. IIRC AJ moved his upper shock mounts for just such a reason.
http://www.actionjackson.com/cruiser/mods/20041231.asp
I can certainly see that the OME shock setup is less than ideal for any of their lifts. This is something I'd like to look into prior to lifting my 80, the only trouble is...apartment living (not having a decent shop avaliable). I need to research a little more on this and see what's out there.
IBCRUSN said:
I'd say that the OME shock set-up is less than Ideal for any of the taller slee or MAF lifts. But they're fine for the OME lifts. When you start throwing spacers on top of the J's, you've gone outside of what the J's and L's were made for.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
The number one limit to flex is the four mount points, arms to axle.
IBCRUSN said:
On 40's it's pretty common to put Ford Super Duty Shock mounts on. After looking at the pictures on actionjackson's site (I stole a pic), it sure seems that they'd work on a 80 and at least address one end of the shock mounting (to a "normal" one).
Walking Eagle said:
I agree on the L's, but I'm not sure on the other lifts. OME uses the same shock on the stock height kit as they use on the heavy kit. That's up to 3" lift difference with the same shocks....so whether you are stock or a 3" lift, you can't go up in tire size (and OME doesn't design for that on a base kit because presumably you'd need gears). Seems you could adjust the shocks to get 35's to fit.
I've spent some time assessing this on my rig, which is straight OME medium front and rear with 33x12.5 trxus (and no flares). These are 10" travel shocks. The tires are just tiny in the wheel wells and I think I could get 35's on there if I had 4" of up travel and 6" down (the front end can't use the full 6" down, but that's how I'd set it up). The rear I have zero question about...the front would be closer.
I need to fne tune my measurements to make sure, but if you can run 33's on stock height, allowing what, 3" to 4" of up travel? So you add 2.5" of lift, but shift the shock travel down, and 35's should be able to use about 1.5" of up travel compared to stock (4" stock less 2.5" of lift). In other words, if you could put 35's on a stock 80 and only allow 1.5" of up travel, then they should definitely work on a 2.5" lift with 4" of up travel.
Nay
Nay,
Do you have measurements of the compression and extention with your current lift? I am planning on going with the heavy lift so the specs should be close.
Do you have measurements of the compression and extention with your current lift? I am planning on going with the heavy lift so the specs should be close.
Nay said:
They don't lower the bumpstops with the heavy kit, so full compression is the same as without a lift. It's kinda like the difference between Slee's 4" kit and 6" kit. The shocks are the same, and the bump stops are the same, all that is really changing more up travel, less down travel.
Now, if you want 35's to fit with 3" of lift, just lower the bump stops 2". They won't rub any more than 35's on Slee's 6" kit at full compression (cause he uses 2" bump stop drops). Now, you've just lost 2" of compression, and gained nothing on extension, so ya', then you lower the shocks 2", and you'll regain the same compression and extension you had before. The one caviot is I don't know at what point you'll extend enough to unseat the springs.
I have Slee's 4" springs and the OME L shocks. When I drop the axle down so it's hanging on the shocks the springs are just captured on the perches. In this position I can rotate the springs with some resistance. This seems to me to be a great fit.
Walking Eagle said:
I'll correct myself before anyone else does - yes there is more chaning between slee's 4 and 6 like the arms, I'm thinking purely on travel by the shocks, and clearance by the stops.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Walking Eagle said:
Man, there is a lot of info in this thread. Just wanted to point out two things. Heath the above is true in the theoretical sense, however the rubber on the bumpstops compress and trail pressure on bumpstops are generally different to the ramp testing we do. We went with 2" to provide a safety gap.
The L shocks is what we use because it is the longest direct bolt in application. Yes I know pin-eye converters exist and other shocks are available, but for 90% of the people a bolt on solutions is what they want. For the rest, tinkering with their truck is what it is all about.
The 80 can be made to flex way more than the L shocks allow, but that goes into the custom area. Picture attached.
Last edited:
