Suspension sway questions

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I used the smallest shims (2 or 2.5degree?) from SOR in the front of my 60 and it seems to be fine with around 2.5" springs and 1.5" shackles. I didn't shim the rear (2.5" shackles). The shim package is labeled "Chevy" so I would assume they are pretty universal. I took her over Pearson park and Johnny Park down to Lyons on Sunday. Not tough trails but we purposely flexed the springs and the brake lines look fine.
 
kevin g said:
CCOT doesn’t sell greasable spring hanger pins and I want these as well. Are all greasable spring hanger pins created equal, or are there particular ones to go with?

CCOT didn’t think that I wouldn’t need to extend the brake lines, but I am skeptical. Is there general consensus?

Thanks.

I've used OME spring pins w/ great success.

By all means, get extended, braided stainless brake lines. You can run a mildly lifted 60/62 w/ out them, we did it, but it's just asking for trouble eventually!
Before the Landcruiser houses stocked them we got teflon / satinless racing lines from Downey. They were around $50 for the set.
Most likely you will notice improved braking just by adding these, not to mention the benefit of longer lines. I had an extra set laying around from 2001 so put 'em on a friends 62 last week - noticable difference in pedal feel!
 
Two more tips for 62 lift:

1) Bleed that LSPV agressively! The nipple is on the side of the unit, so air is almost impossible to remove. Even pressure bleeding never quite gets it all. Here's how: Unbolt the brake lines the length of the truck so you can gently "twist" the LSPV so that the bleed nipple is facing the sky, then beeld it. You'll probably only be able to get it at a 45* angle safely, and you'll need two peole to do this, as you'll have to hold the LSPV in this position while bleeding.


2) Build a bracket to lift the LSPV arm on the rear axle. If you do not do this, the LSPV will proportion the rear brakes incorrectly and you'll suffer decresed braking. Do a search for LSPV on this form and the 3FE group for details on how. I spent over $1000 trying to fix brake problem after lift - replaced entire brake system - everything except ridgid brake lines - and what solved the issue was $5 in pipe stock, a hack saw, drill, two bolts, and an hour of time :censor:
 
One last clarification on the LSPV issue:

Part of the $1000 went to replace front calipers which burned out as a result of the rear brakes no longer contributing because of the LSPV issue. The truck mentioned was used to cary very heavy loads, and was needed, so when this happend, and I was not around, it was taken to a Toyo dealer, who replaced the calipers for $800. Ouch!
 
I have the 3" Pinnical lift on my FJ60. The flex cannont be beat. Friends with OME are jelous when they see how well the Pinnical springs flex. However, I had to replace two springs within the first few months do to quality control issus. JT Outfitters was really good about swapping the springs for me though...

In terms of spring life...I've only had mine for 1 yr...but carry 500lbs of gear with me at all times...


On the road, the springs are a bit sloppy...but then again...I'm running no sway bars, so i'm sure they will feel better with sway bars. The Pinnical lift is under 1k for everything.

FLEX

cheers, JR
 
Bostonfj60 said:

Mr. Rutherford, good to see that you made the front page of Gotham City Land Cruisers. :cheers:

I am still in the middle of an OME installation; the rear is all done, but my comments will reflect the difference between OE ride and aftermarket:

-In the begining I had plenty of body roll. It has subsided 400 miles later.
-Although I can fit a 35" under the truck without rubbing, during real off road use it might be troublesome. I'll stick to 33"s for now.
-The ride is so much, much better. No stiffness or bouncing without load.
-Expensive, yes. But my purpose is to have a dependable cruiser to travel around, not as much as a heavy duty off road vehicle.

So that is it in the end... to what purpose you intend to build your truck determines what equipment you buy.

Can't beat the pricce of BDS, but I would compromise and get Dobinsons. The Canadian distributor is on the Land Cruiser Mailing List.
 
I am assuming I will need axle shims. I am thinking 2.5-degree. Does this sound correct? Are they needed in the rear too?

Not necessarily...depends on the manufacturer of your springs: some correct for castor during production, some don't. Try installing it without the shims first. If you find the truck wandering like crazy while driving down the highway, then you probably need the shims. They are easy to add/remove without completely disassembling the suspension just by dropping the u-bolt plate.

If you do end up shimming, make sure the centering bolt on your spring pack is long enough to accomodate the shim and still nest properly in the spring perch -- too short and your springs will shift back and forth, driving you nuts in the process while reeking havoc on your steering components.

HTH,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60
 
Thanks for the input guys.

Rollin'n'zona, I may have more questions regarding the LSPV when I get around to the installation.

Does any one know anything about the greasable spring hanger pins that Liquid Offroad sells? I am planning on ordering some other stuff from them and if their hanger pins are any good, I would just like to add that to the order.

You guys are great. :cheers:
 

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