Suspension install best practices (1 Viewer)

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I understand that all too often people incorrectly install aftermarket suspensions in that many don't preload the suspension before tightening/torquing the bolts. One of then reasons may be because they just don't know better. Another reason may be that alignment racks are pretty pricey for any backyard wrencher so laziness.

So you're supposed to lower the truck fully on ground supporting its own weight before tightening down the bolts kind of like kdss. Else you put undue stress on bushings and other suspension parts even at rest!

What is the proper procedure to install aftermarket front coilovers and rear shocks/ springs on ifs LCs? Is there a manual that shows you which bolts must be preloaded before final tightening? Torque values?

Just want to use this as a learning oppty. Many thanks.
 
use factory recommended torque values for such parts and re-check/tighten after couple hundred km/miles
 
What is the proper procedure to install aftermarket front coilovers and rear shocks/ springs on ifs LCs? Is there a manual that shows you which bolts must be preloaded before final tightening? Torque values? Just want to use this as a learning oppty. Many thanks.

Your best source is the FSM which in paper form is a bit speedy. Also available online by subscription on the TIS system listed in a sticky in this forum.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
Sweet.

So let's say I want to get every bolt torqued right at a home garage.

Do I need to:

Lift the truck. Loosen the bolts. Lower the truck on its own weight. Torque all bolts?
 
Your best source is the FSM which in paper form is a bit speedy. Also available online by subscription on the TIS system listed in a sticky in this forum.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

Just subscribed to TIS. The thing is massive.

Which page should I be looking at? Particularly Interested to hear from those who actually did their own wrenching on 200 lift install. Many thanks.
 
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Wrenched a bit for first time at a buddy's place. Actually was quite a bit of fun as easy a job as it was. I'm learning quickly that the only way to do it right with complete peace of mind is to do as much of the work on your car yourself with beer in hand.

TIS tells me clearly that these bolts should be torqued with all four wheels on ground.



As for the rear, it doesn't notate that any of the bolts need pre-load besides that KDSS arm. I have noticed, though, that the top shock nut with both the OME shocks and now ICON shocks keep coming loose. I drove it to my buddy's place to verify and sure enough, we hand tightened them. Drove a little. One got loose. Tightened it again.

What's the torque spec for the top nut? It is a bit of a stretch to get proper leverage. I'm not even sure that there's a torque wrench you can use to get it at from the side. You'd have to find a way to get enough leverage from the bottom.

While under truck, I noticed that one of my rear stabilizer bar washer/nut (part#91674-L1022) was missing. Complete fail by someone who worked on my rig. smh



I don't understand the order. What I saw was just the four washer/nut combo, but it says to order the tightening in 4 steps. How? I'm guessing you tighten one bolt, go to the other one, come back with final torque and then finish off the fourth step with torque @ 43?

Thanks.
 
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Yes its a real trial. You need to use one of those long handled compound angle ratchet ring spanners for back left nut. (wow thats a mouthful) Not sure what size the Icon shock nut is but if same as Radflo then 'm guessing 19mm. You can pick these up on Ebay or any decent tool shop. Your mechanic should have one if he's reasonably well equipped. It's an easier proposistion if tire is off but of course you need to jack up under the shock point load to make sure the shock body is being forced up home.

Forget the torque wrench. Just tighten the living beejasus out of the mother - and add a second nut if you're still unsure.
 
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It is 19mm for the icons too. You can get at both top nuts easily from the side just that I'd need a longer wrench with one if those flex head ends which my friend had. I yanked it as hard as I could. Hopefully it'll hold as the shocks and springs settle in a bit.

What is the torque value just for curiosity's sake?
 
This is a worthy thread as many quickly rush to install their new suspension and tighten everything up and then drop the truck and go for a ride.

I am disassembling and rebuilding my front Swaybar system this weekend with all new bushings and end links to try and eliminate a rattle that has been there since the truck was new. I will follow these torque specs.
 
Hi all - my first post on this forum. It may be too simplistic for people who are already tech-savvy, and it is installing a certain brand of suspension that may or may not be available in the USA, but this Australian video clip is almost a "suspension install for dummies" - like me! It does not discuss specific torque values for reassembling the setup, but it seems worth a cursory glance, at least, for anyone who may be considering replacing or upgrading the OEM suspension on the 200 Series (with KDSS in this instance).

And the presenter's accent should not be too great a problem for our northern hemisphere cousins...

Here is the link: http://www.australianimages.com.au/project200/suspension.php
 

Great job on these videos and write ups mate. DEFINITELY a fine addition to this forum.. Matbe this thread can be Pinned to the How To section.

The only thing I question is Bushings on the front Sway Bar End links are supposed to be Non Resuable. I don't know why but until we firure it out it would be best to remove the bold between the sway bar and the end link. Going to rebuild this weekend with all new parts.
 

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