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^Sorry to see that! Definitely sux aat best and a significant safety concern at worst!
Is the alignment tab gone or flattened out? Hard to make out in the pic.
The interior is in amazing condition. I was pleasantly surprised. The previous owner put in a brand new steering wheel/switches because of the wear on the original. The door panel grip handle had the usual paint wear and the shift handle did too. So time to replace those.
Grip handle: 74611-60030
Shift knob: TRD PTR57-34141
View attachment 2269761
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It just pops right off and snaps back on.Recently also picked up a 200, and this handle is about the only thing that is messed up in the interior. So glad you posted this. Do you have to pull the door to install, or does it just pop off?
The ouboard tab looks like it's gone. The lower tab has been hit, probably from the arm bouncing around.
Do you think this could have caused any other damage? Tie rods, etc? What should I expect from the shop to fix this?
It just pops right off and snaps back on.
I spoke to the shop this morning. Apparently the LCA front bolt "slid" on their test drive too. I have to believe that this is the result of them not torquing to the proper spec of 207 ft lbs (Pretty sure that's what it is). However, they are bumping the front arm in and the rear arm out per SPC's recommendation for getting rear tire clearance. Do you think this would contribute to the arm slipping like that? Does that create increased load?Sucks donkey for sure.
As for other damage, I think you'll be fine. A loose control arm bolt shouldn't cause damage to other components. Hopefully you didn't have to drive too far at higher speeds with the alignment off like that. Tire wear, i.e. premature tread wear or carcass damage from overheating, can be an issue.
I spoke to the shop this morning. Apparently the LCA front bolt "slid" on their test drive too. I have to believe that this is the result of them not torquing to the proper spec of 207 ft lbs (Pretty sure that's what it is). However, they are bumping the front arm in and the rear arm out per SPC's recommendation for getting rear tire clearance. Do you think this would contribute to the arm slipping like that? Does that create increased load?
I find it hard to believe the alignment bolt will slip during a test drive if properly torqued. The clamping pressure will lock in the alignment even though some very hard driving. Enough that metal would probably bend before the clamp gives up. The tabs don't really do any part in keeping the alignment in place. They're there to help the eccentric push/pull the bolt when turned into alignment when untorqued.
Total Chaos tab kit shows up tomorrow. I can't live with the f&*%ed up tabs and bandaided booger welds on there. Unfortunately I have to wait 3 weeks to get in to the one highly regarded shops that would agree to do it. These are times when I wish I could weld.Looks like it's time for the total chaos tab kit.
Had a shop "adjust" one of my tabs flat. So hard to find a decent alignment shop.
I found a guy that knows what he is doing. I moved and still take my truck to him 40 miles away...
I'm definitely due for an update. Lots of changes:Beautiful rig any updates?