Builds Supra88's High Mileage 200 Series Build (1 Viewer)

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I managed to finally get the RWs and Nittos on.

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Put on the ARB Jerry Can swing mount and cut the end of the square tubing on the tire mount. I'm not sure why ARB has this feature. It prevents me from using my tire mounted bike rack and from having the center cap on the RW. Which aesthetically looks much better on the back of the rig.

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Next on the list of to dos is window tinting. I have an appointment set up at the end of August with a local guy who I've used on other vehicles. I'm still not sure what the best tint is for the Toyota "green" glass. Any suggestion are welcomed.

I'm also continuing to contemplate the possibly installing the starter that's been sitting on my shelf. Still on the original starter with 230,000 miles.
 
This is what happens when the shop forgets to tighten one of the lower control arm bolts during an alignment.

🤦‍♂️ So frustrating.

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^Sorry to see that! Definitely sux aat best and a significant safety concern at worst!

Is the alignment tab gone or flattened out? Hard to make out in the pic.
 
Looks like it's time for the total chaos tab kit.

Had a shop "adjust" one of my tabs flat. So hard to find a decent alignment shop.
I found a guy that knows what he is doing. I moved and still take my truck to him 40 miles away...
 
^Sorry to see that! Definitely sux aat best and a significant safety concern at worst!

Is the alignment tab gone or flattened out? Hard to make out in the pic.

The ouboard tab looks like it's gone. The lower tab has been hit, probably from the arm bouncing around.

Do you think this could have caused any other damage? Tie rods, etc? What should I expect from the shop to fix this?
 
The interior is in amazing condition. I was pleasantly surprised. The previous owner put in a brand new steering wheel/switches because of the wear on the original. The door panel grip handle had the usual paint wear and the shift handle did too. So time to replace those.

Grip handle: 74611-60030
Shift knob: TRD PTR57-34141

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Recently also picked up a 200, and this handle is about the only thing that is messed up in the interior. So glad you posted this. Do you have to pull the door to install, or does it just pop off?
 
Recently also picked up a 200, and this handle is about the only thing that is messed up in the interior. So glad you posted this. Do you have to pull the door to install, or does it just pop off?
It just pops right off and snaps back on.
 
The ouboard tab looks like it's gone. The lower tab has been hit, probably from the arm bouncing around.

Do you think this could have caused any other damage? Tie rods, etc? What should I expect from the shop to fix this?

Sucks donkey for sure.

As for other damage, I think you'll be fine. A loose control arm bolt shouldn't cause damage to other components. Hopefully you didn't have to drive too far at higher speeds with the alignment off like that. Tire wear, i.e. premature tread wear or carcass damage from overheating, can be an issue.
 
It just pops right off and snaps back on.

Perfect, ordered! Going through everything now just like you, but your thread is really helping. I'm a few miles less, but not much.


Congrats and keep up the good work!
 
Sucks donkey for sure.

As for other damage, I think you'll be fine. A loose control arm bolt shouldn't cause damage to other components. Hopefully you didn't have to drive too far at higher speeds with the alignment off like that. Tire wear, i.e. premature tread wear or carcass damage from overheating, can be an issue.
I spoke to the shop this morning. Apparently the LCA front bolt "slid" on their test drive too. I have to believe that this is the result of them not torquing to the proper spec of 207 ft lbs (Pretty sure that's what it is). However, they are bumping the front arm in and the rear arm out per SPC's recommendation for getting rear tire clearance. Do you think this would contribute to the arm slipping like that? Does that create increased load?
 
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When the shop forgets to tighten the bolt on your LCA. Back to the shop. Sounds like they're going to repair the cam locator tabs too.
My 80 is laughing in the background.
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I spoke to the shop this morning. Apparently the LCA front bolt "slid" on their test drive too. I have to believe that this is the result of them not torquing to the proper spec of 207 ft lbs (Pretty sure that's what it is). However, they are bumping the front arm in and the rear arm out per SPC's recommendation for getting rear tire clearance. Do you think this would contribute to the arm slipping like that? Does that create increased load?

I find it hard to believe the alignment bolt will slip during a test drive if properly torqued. The clamping pressure will lock in the alignment even though extreme driving. Enough that metal would probably bend before the clamp gives up. The tabs don't really do any part in keeping the alignment in place. They're there to help the eccentric push/pull the bolt into place for alignment when untorqued.
 
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I find it hard to believe the alignment bolt will slip during a test drive if properly torqued. The clamping pressure will lock in the alignment even though some very hard driving. Enough that metal would probably bend before the clamp gives up. The tabs don't really do any part in keeping the alignment in place. They're there to help the eccentric push/pull the bolt when turned into alignment when untorqued.

Agreed. I think he (the owner) understands that too. When I checked the bolt on the LCA I could turn it with a short 1/2" socket wrench. So they either forgot to torque it or they torqued it at too low in my opinion.
 
Looks like it's time for the total chaos tab kit.

Had a shop "adjust" one of my tabs flat. So hard to find a decent alignment shop.
I found a guy that knows what he is doing. I moved and still take my truck to him 40 miles away...
Total Chaos tab kit shows up tomorrow. I can't live with the f&*%ed up tabs and bandaided booger welds on there. Unfortunately I have to wait 3 weeks to get in to the one highly regarded shops that would agree to do it. These are times when I wish I could weld.
 
Beautiful rig any updates?
 
Beautiful rig any updates?
I'm definitely due for an update. Lots of changes:

installed the following:

New OEM LCA assemblies
New hub/wheels bearings
New sway bar links
New OEM axles
Fresh front differential fluid
New OEM rotors and pads
New cam alignment hardware

I noticed my coolant reservoir was slowly losing fluid. I performed a pressure test and noticed that there was a very slow decay, but I couldn't find the leak. My borescope confirmed I had the common coolant valley leak. I ordered up the FIPG and orings and repaired it. No more leaks.

it's running very well, but I'm pretty sure I have an out-of -round tire. My new set of Ridge Grapplers always have a seat of the pants vibration, based on wheel speed, until the tires warm up. I'm not sure how I'm going to address this. I purchased the tires from Tire Buyer.

I sprayed down the underside with fluid film to keep the rust free rig rust free.

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