Superglow electronic replacement (1 Viewer)

[kouglof]

After enduring too much trouble with my original superglow timer which frequently did not operate correctly I decided to use my electrical engineering knowledge to make a timer replacement.

This board is based on an ATMEGA328P for the logic part.
Current features support:
- Water temperature measurement -> glow duration adaptation
- No operation if engine has already started when board is powered on
- High glow stop after engine start
- Glow stop during starter use & resume afterwards
- Glow current sensing (Though I have to further test this one)
- High glow safety timer (To prevent multiple consecutive uses of high glow)

I also added a switch box where I can select If I want to use the current sensing/water temperature/glow safety and I can also select between two different glow duration maximums.

The board is completely plug and play with the original box, I will probably drill two small holes on the side so that I am able to see the leds.

I am wondering if anyone would be interested in having one. This one was made for a 24V BJ42 but it should operate correctly with other types of superglow, including 12V (I should just check&adapt the resistance/temperature/timing curves).

I currently have enough components to make 4 other boards (I could not order less boards from the pcb manufacturer) but If there is any demand I would gladly order more.

 

[JakeisbadatThis]

I'm really new to ih8mud and i've just been combing through forums since i bought my bj70 a couple months ago. I've read up on the superglow system and am interested in improving it, how much would you be charging for one and how involved is the swap over? Assume soldering the oem connector and any additional wiring?

 

[kouglof]

As you have noticed the connector on my picture is the one coming from the old stock timer.
The good news is I managed to source the original connector (171894-1 is the reference) thanks to a lot of research on specialized websites.
So I would be able to manufacture a board with a connector. In my opinion this is the only reasonnable option because except if you are equipped with a hot air rework station you will never be able to unsolder the connector from your original board.
Speaking about price I think that would be around 70€.
I should warn any enthusiasts that I am still testing this though. While I am really confident on the basic opération (water temperature) there remains some uncertainty on more advanced features and that is why I put a switch box on the board so that individual functions can be disabled.

 

[4Ruster]

Seriously, that is awesome.
I have a 2lt with the 12 volt super glow system. The current sending stuff is all removed, it's just a ford starter relay hooked to the glow rail.
I gave up trying to figure out my broken super glow system.

I have the board sitting around somewhere, I could ship it out to you if you want a 12 volt board to study.

 

[4Ruster]

In my case, the wiring is all pulled out so I'd honestly be more happy with bare wire leads and I can just solder them to the proper power sources.

 

[DivByZero]

Well done! I'm very interested in projects like this, they'll become increasingly important for these vehicles as they age. Have you given any thought to publishing the source/schematics for your design for free on GitHub? You can always license it as "free for personal use" and keep commercial rights, but it'll make it useful as a form of documentation if/when you're no longer able or interested in making these up anymore. 99.99% of people will just want to buy a made-up product anyway, but some of us (like me) with more electronics/embedded systems knowledge might be interested in tweaking or expanding something like this 5 or 10 years from now.

 

[kouglof]

View attachment 3445966

Seriously, that is awesome.
I have a 2lt with the 12 volt super glow system. The current sending stuff is all removed, it's just a ford starter relay hooked to the glow rail.
I gave up trying to figure out my broken super glow system.

I have the board sitting around somewhere, I could ship it out to you if you want a 12 volt board to study.

Actually I would have little use of the board itself, especially if it is not in working condition. To adapt the board to the 12v system I would rather use the timer manual with the temperature curves if you happen to have it.

Considering connectorless board that is obviously possible though I would highly recommend fitting a new connector (does not have to be the same one) using leads on the timer side so that your system remains removable easily.

I am definitely considering publishing the whole thing on GitHub, I am not trying to become a millionaire with that anyway. At best I would enjoy covering the few prototypes & associated components that I bought during the development process. Most of all I would be thrilled to know my system active in other's cars
I'll post a message here once it's done.

 

[4Ruster]

Actually I would have little use of the board itself, especially if it is not in working condition. To adapt the board to the 12v system I would rather use the timer manual with the temperature curves if you happen to have it.

Considering connectorless board that is obviously possible though I would highly recommend fitting a new connector (does not have to be the same one) using leads on the timer side so that your system remains removable easily.

I am definitely considering publishing the whole thing on GitHub, I am not trying to become a millionaire with that anyway. At best I would enjoy covering the few prototypes & associated components that I bought during the development process. Most of all I would be thrilled to know my system active in other's cars
I'll post a message here once it's done.

I hope this is what you need.

You sold me within the first post haha. Keep us updated!

 

[4Ruster]

Do you know what the pin out is for the connector?

 

[kouglof]

Do you know what the pin out is for the connector?

Is your 12v connector different from my 9pin connector on the 24V system ?

 

[4Ruster]

Is your 12v connector different from my 9pin connector on the 24V system ?

Should be the same. I have to wire a plug in myself so even if it's not, that's okay.

 

[kouglof]

Hi everybody,

I have been testing my system this weekend (I don't live where the car does unfortunately...)! It is rather promising but I have some stability issues regarding power input. I have to diagnose where the problem comes from. I'll keep you updated.

 

[kouglof]

Sooooo

After my last tests I made a 3rd version of my superglow electronic replacement.
I fixed all identified hardware bugs and made global improvements (stability, power supply variations,...). I added a wilson switch port that does not need the board to be functional in order to work.
I also made sure that it would be compatible with 12v systems without any tweak.

This v3 has been tested in cold conditions and works like a charm ! (BJ42, 24V 3B engine)

I sourced the original pcb connector so I am able to make a plug & play replacement board that will work with the original wiring loom connector.

I will order a new batch of boards shortly, if you are interested please reply here or send me a private message.

Feel free to ask anything !

 

[kouglof]

After deep testing on bench and in car I can proudly say that my electronic superglow works great !

Here is a picture of the final board inside the timing box:

The card in detail:

I switched to transistors for increased robustness. I also added a bunch of improvements including a monitoring system to warn you in case malfunction is detected: short circuit (leading to unwanted glow) / input voltage too low / water temperature sensor KO /...

I will later on make a complete post about the design, testing and functionalities of the system but if you are interested here is a user manual I just made.

VS

 

[bcsteel]

Hello everyone,

I just installed the controller into my 1984 bj42 24v Canadian spec.

Installation is very straightforward and all literature provided is very concise and accurate. The factory harness connection needs to be swapped as they are not compatible. This was provided in the kit.

I turned the summer function to off. Truck had been sitting for at least a month. Glow functioned perfectly. To note, I have 2 very good batteries and new Toyota correct glow plugs. OAT was -12°C. Started smooth. Glowed 1 time. After glow also appeared to work as well. All in all Id say this is a win.

Thank you for @kouglof for putting forth the effort…

 

[jjandson]

Hello everyone,

I just installed the controller into my 1984 bj42 24v Canadian spec.

Installation is very straightforward and all literature provided is very concise and accurate. The factory harness connection needs to be swapped as they are not compatible. This was provided in the kit.

I turned the summer function to off. Truck had been sitting for at least a month. Glow functioned perfectly. To note, I have 2 very good batteries and new Toyota correct glow plugs. OAT was -12°C. Started smooth. Glowed 1 time. After glow also appeared to work as well. All in all Id say this is a win.

Thank you for @kouglof for putting forth the effort…

Hello
I have got this replacement controller from Kouglof and installed it on my BJ42 from 1982
My car is used in the French alps. Current OAT gets down to -5°c
Very easy and straightforward installation with the connetor kit provided.
Used on a daily basis. It runs perfectly in various conditions (It is configured in winter position with all functions activated).
After months of problems with legacy system, and number of glow plugs burnt, happy to recover a fully operational system
Congrats for the brillant design!

 

[abemon16]

I am super interested in picking one of these up if possible. Let me know the details when possible, thanks!

 

[Diesel42]

Awesome