Sunroof cable replacement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Gig
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Certainly couldn't hurt. What / how are you using/planning to complete the job?
YardPig
SILVER Star
Usually the sunroof drains get clogged and water sits in the tray and rusts the cables that ride in the guides. The cables seize in the steel guide tubes. Not a cheap repair and not easy to replace as the entire tray has to come out to replace which requires major interior removal.
I would start with some silicone spray on every moving part and slide and see if this helps the speed. Other then that it gets more involved with white lithium grease. Your sunroof motor could be struggling.
I would start with some silicone spray on every moving part and slide and see if this helps the speed. Other then that it gets more involved with white lithium grease. Your sunroof motor could be struggling.
Did this years ago, had to order new parts and rip out the upper half of my interior to get it done, the details are somewhere in a thread on here. A true pain in the ass job.
In the middle of doing this very pain in the ass job. Dropping headliner is a major pain, then the sunroof disassembly, ouch. My cables were seized inside the housings and motor couldn't move any more. Stay tuned . . . . .
I did this last summer. It’s a hassle, but a lot more “fun” than, say, replacing a steering rack. Make sure you have a large flat workspace to tune up the sunroof cassette, and somewhere to put the headliner after you pull it out. It’s one piece and very big. I hung mine from the ceiling with bungee cords.
The OEM lube gets hard over time. If the cables are not broken you can clean them and re-use. I removed the two cables (spiral-wound) and cleaned them by chucking them in a drill and spinning them while gripping with a scouring pad. Old lube came off in chunks.
Also had to clean out the inside of the guide tubes. I don’t remember how I did this, but I imagine it involved spraying carb cleaner or similar to loosen up the gunk, then swabing them out with rifle cleaning patches or something. Pull the patches through the tubes instead of pushing, it’s easier since they’re curved.
The OEM lube gets hard over time. If the cables are not broken you can clean them and re-use. I removed the two cables (spiral-wound) and cleaned them by chucking them in a drill and spinning them while gripping with a scouring pad. Old lube came off in chunks.
Also had to clean out the inside of the guide tubes. I don’t remember how I did this, but I imagine it involved spraying carb cleaner or similar to loosen up the gunk, then swabing them out with rifle cleaning patches or something. Pull the patches through the tubes instead of pushing, it’s easier since they’re curved.
Last edited:
Happy to post some pictures and post. My experience has been very similar to Ayune above; with the exception that the OEM lube was so hard and mixed with rust from the cable/tubes that I could not pull the cables out of the guide tubes no matter what I tried; finally one of the cables just broke as I was trying. Just ordered two new cables and guide tubes, wish me luck. . .
Also agree that this is much more fun than climbing around under the truck and working on steering rack or suspension. Also teaching my 15 year old son how to tackle a car project like this and he is loving it so a fun project from that standpoint as well. I used to have an old 1978 FJ and used to work on all the time and this is bringing back some fond memories. We have had this current truck since 2003 (2nd owner) and it is about 600 miles from crossing the 200,000 mile mark. Am sure there will be many more projects with it over the years both voluntary and involuntary.
Also agree that this is much more fun than climbing around under the truck and working on steering rack or suspension. Also teaching my 15 year old son how to tackle a car project like this and he is loving it so a fun project from that standpoint as well. I used to have an old 1978 FJ and used to work on all the time and this is bringing back some fond memories. We have had this current truck since 2003 (2nd owner) and it is about 600 miles from crossing the 200,000 mile mark. Am sure there will be many more projects with it over the years both voluntary and involuntary.
You should be able to see the cable when you open the sunroof but you will need to also get lube down into the guidetubes. Good question though, not sure of the best protocol to avoid the problem I am having; obviously I did not maintain it and now have a bigger project. Attached are some photos of my project
View attachment 1820954
View attachment 1820954
Last edited:
Ive done the job several times. The problems with the sunroofs is Toyota used a white lithium lube that dries up with no use or lubrication. You don't need to drop the whole headliner. You can drop it from just behind the second row and forward and let it fall to get access to the sunroof. ALL LC100s can use cables and the cable tube parts from the 98-2002. 03-07 Toyota and Lexus will only sell you the whole assembly when you ask for parts. I strongly recommend you buy a good used full assembly and just swap the whole thing. The time and frustration in buying swapping parts is not worth it. Trust me Ive done maybe 20. Rarely is it anything but locked/rusted cables. Lastly lift/pull the glass before trying to drop the frame it is probably 80% of the weight and makes it very easy when swapping.
Cables are around 160 per side and the tube is like 180. A used assembly is 300-400 shipped and saves you hours of frustration and trying to get the sunroof reset/programmed again later after you disassemble.
1 more thing use a #3 phillips on all the handle screws. Push very hard like you expect them to be on with loctite and prone to stripping. . Once they're broken you can use an electric screwdriver with a #2, You only need 10mm, sockets , #3, #2 phillips to do the job. Often they're easy but if you strip one you'll be screwed.
Cables are around 160 per side and the tube is like 180. A used assembly is 300-400 shipped and saves you hours of frustration and trying to get the sunroof reset/programmed again later after you disassemble.
1 more thing use a #3 phillips on all the handle screws. Push very hard like you expect them to be on with loctite and prone to stripping. . Once they're broken you can use an electric screwdriver with a #2, You only need 10mm, sockets , #3, #2 phillips to do the job. Often they're easy but if you strip one you'll be screwed.
Last edited:
One more thing to avoid stripping out the screws—get the proper JIS drivers or bits. They look just like your regular Phillips bits, but they're cut slightly different to fit the Japanese standard we have.
Very good info and yeah, wish I had read before I head ordered the parts, I have finally gotten the parts and installed new cables and guides. The sunroof moves back and forth but doesn't seem to want to push UK into the roof hike and seal and studied I either did not install the cable guide correctly or need to align the motor and roof as many have meeting has been an issue. If I post a picture of how I installed the cable housing into rails would you be able to tell if I did correctly?. Thx for your good sharing and thoughts
Alignment may be created by some other means but what I’ve done is this. Slowly use the switches to get the sunroof to the most perfectly closed position. Remove the motor from the sunroof. Use the switches to move the motor to the most open position them back to the closed position then use the tilt switch and move it to the tilted up then the tilted down or closed position. Reinstall the motor and use the switches to operate the sunroof to all positions. It should be right if not try it again until you get it right. Be careful the motors bolts and the nuts they screw in are cheap metal and can strip. Dont over tighten but make sure it’s snug.
Sunroof out an on a table
Spray the Philip head screws on the front that hold the tubes and the the black piece that flip up when the sunroof is open.
With a lot of downward pressure and a good #2 Phillips head screw driver remove the philips head screw on each side that hold the flip up windscreen. Then jiggle it carefully but fircefully until it’s off
Then remove the two philips head off on each side that hold the tubes on.
Grab the tubes and pull them forward usually 1 or both are stuck but you’ll get enough to cut the cables with a strong wire cutter.
Cut only the ones that are stuck obviously because anyone that comes out of the tube and is in good shape is reusable.
Then order the new cables and new tubes from the dealer.
1 or 2 cables and the tubes is around 650.00
Then put it back together with the new parts
Put the sunroof in without the glass slide the glass back in the rough the top and tighten it down
If it works without getting stuck in the wrong position you’re lucky
If it is not going back to the closed position use the buttons to tap it in the perfectly closed position and take the motor off and let it hang. use The switches to run the motor to the all the way back position. usually that’s two or three hits on the switch. Then forward then up on the tilt and down on the tilt and then button the motor back.
It should all be aligned and working like it supposed to.
Spray the Philip head screws on the front that hold the tubes and the the black piece that flip up when the sunroof is open.
With a lot of downward pressure and a good #2 Phillips head screw driver remove the philips head screw on each side that hold the flip up windscreen. Then jiggle it carefully but fircefully until it’s off
Then remove the two philips head off on each side that hold the tubes on.
Grab the tubes and pull them forward usually 1 or both are stuck but you’ll get enough to cut the cables with a strong wire cutter.
Cut only the ones that are stuck obviously because anyone that comes out of the tube and is in good shape is reusable.
Then order the new cables and new tubes from the dealer.
1 or 2 cables and the tubes is around 650.00
Then put it back together with the new parts
Put the sunroof in without the glass slide the glass back in the rough the top and tighten it down
If it works without getting stuck in the wrong position you’re lucky
If it is not going back to the closed position use the buttons to tap it in the perfectly closed position and take the motor off and let it hang. use The switches to run the motor to the all the way back position. usually that’s two or three hits on the switch. Then forward then up on the tilt and down on the tilt and then button the motor back.
It should all be aligned and working like it supposed to.
MDK
Can’t dance
What’s the trick to removing this part? It’s the last (of course) piece holding the frame in for me. Can’t seem to figure it out.
