Sudden loss of power on freeway... (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 28, 2006
Threads
16
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367
Location
Kirkland, WA
Yesterday afternoon, heading south on I-405 in the HOV lane, car suddently lost power - yikes.... Tried to move over to the right (BIG mistake, almost no power even with throttle pressed down), but had to get back into HOV and stop on the center median. Car idles OK, leaves it for a little while and decide to continue to next exit and then back home. Right out scary feeling being an slow moving object on busy freeway...
Car seem to be running fine on the way home. No CEL, and assuming then no codes - or can I pull some codes even though CEL does not indicate "anything wrong"?

Assumption is TB/TPS/APPS, or vacuum leaks.
Have read through https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/127474-tps-apps-problems.html as well as FAQ.

Cleaned throttle body two years ago when I replaced starter contacts. Will clean TB today again, but doubt it can be gummed up already.
Other thoughts??

Funny (?) thing is that I thought I heard some "unnormal" sounds as we were accelerating slowly onto the freeway. Car just did not run as (increadibly) smooth as normal. Afterwards when driving home asked wife, and she described it possibly as some low level "gurgling" sound. But only after I probed her. She would not have noticed it...
 
I lost my #7 coil this week and I had some power issues. The thing about a failed coil is that the engine vibrates pretty hard and you will have a CEL flashing at you.

Any crazy vibes? What was that unusual noise you heard and where did come from?
 
No "crazy" vibes, just did not "feel" to be running as smooth as normal. Wife actually suggested that maybe one cylinder wasn't firing, and that might be a good description for how it "felt" (but no CEL or other indications). When outside car, idling, no unnormal noises. Will remove engine cover and rev it up "manually" to see if I can notice anything.

How much did the coil run you, remember some horror stories from MUD a few years ago?

And I am about to replace all my plugs as part of my 90K service (but will have timing belt and water pump done by shop).
 
What's the chance for the coil going w/o triggering a CEL (or any codes)?
 
When the coil went it was a very discernible vibration, it idled rough and when the S/C kicked it got pretty bad. When I shut the rig down, the CEL remained illuminated and the VSC light was on. If you accelerated like your nadds were on the bottom of the gas pedal the vibe was not that bad - until about 55 mph, after that it got progressively worse.

Cost of the repair was $320 out the door. I did not have a choice in the matter, I was away from home and with out my tools and manuals. I am not sure where the #7 cylinder is, but I am sure that if I had to fix the bastard it would be in the most inconvenient location known to man.

The breakdown was $100 for the coil and get this - 2 hours to put it in! If the #7 cylinder is located on the driver's side of the motor, those asholes didn't even need to remove a cover because of the super charger. CDan will charge you about $80 for the coil, in fact on my next parts order I am thinking about ordering an extra one - just in case.

Good Luck and let us know what happened.
 
Last edited:
When a coil goes it will trigger codes -
 
Thnx,
Whatever it is, I'll update this post with my findings.
 
If you lose a coil it will still run, just on 7 instead of 8 cylinders. Having experienced this myself I seriously doubt a coil is an issue here.

Scary thing to happen though, I think we are all interested in what the issue is.

Greeting from the good part of WA BTW:flipoff2:.

I've been on the interstate, that would be scary as ****.
 
I'd guess TPS. Doesn't throw a code and not a consistant problem.
 
When my ignition coil failed, I too had power loss. Then engine light came on for a few minutes and went away. Then on for few seconds, then went away. Back on and off while I was on my vacation.

So it is possible that ignition coil is "failing".

I paid close to $300 for the fix. $75 for computer code check. $110 for coil, and $120 for labor. And one night stop over in the small town, South Dakota.

Now I have my tools and ScanGauge in the truck at all time. I'll need to be sure to buy spare ignition coil for next time I go on vacation.
 
On my next parts order I am buying an extra coil, it's $80 worth of insurance and some piece of mind. I have to score a scan gauge, I didn't need one on the 80, but on this beast it is mandatory equipment.
 
When my ignition coil failed, I too had power loss. Then engine light came on for a few minutes and went away. Then on for few seconds, then went away. Back on and off while I was on my vacation.

So it is possible that ignition coil is "failing".

I paid close to $300 for the fix. $75 for computer code check. $110 for coil, and $120 for labor. And one night stop over in the small town, South Dakota.

Now I have my tools and ScanGauge in the truck at all time. I'll need to be sure to buy spare ignition coil for next time I go on vacation.

That's lame they charged you for the check. Even the dealer only charges $45 diagnostic and they waive that if they do the repair.
 
TPS. Not coil.
 
i'll go whit the TPS, when a coil or spark plug is not working you dont loose your pedal responds.
when you have a miss fie most of the time your CEL will blink until the code Po300 sets
 
Thanks, will order a TPS from CDan. Sounds like the most obvious route, considering the Throttle body was almost "squeeky clean" (see picture).

Will also post a few photos in the "Seattle Timing belt" post to show some photos of current belt at 92K for those interested.


/// Per-Ola
Throttle Body (Custom).jpg
 
when my TPS/APPS went it would only lose power (go limp) when starting off, not while driving at highway speeds. When the truck was warmed up it would never happen and when it did happen it would always throw a code.
 
For a whole lot less $$ than the dealer, you can get a scan guage and read the codes, whenever you want. Don't trust the idiot lights. Even a TPS has a code that should have turned on a light. You can buy those guages at local parts shops, or check eBay. I think mine was around $15 plus shipping.

Have you checked codes yet? What is the diagnosed problem with the motor?
 
For a whole lot less $$ than the dealer, you can get a scan guage and read the codes, whenever you want. Don't trust the idiot lights. Even a TPS has a code that should have turned on a light. You can buy those guages at local parts shops, or check eBay. I think mine was around $15 plus shipping.

Have you checked codes yet? What is the diagnosed problem with the motor?
Most dealers will give you the cost of the CEL back if you have them do the work, however that said i would never pay to get a CEL read unless i had no other option. You can take your truck to any parts store and they will read it for free...
 
That's lame they charged you for the check. Even the dealer only charges $45 diagnostic and they waive that if they do the repair.

This dealership wouldnt barge when I told them that my dealership back home does not charge me for check if I went ahead and have them do the repair.
 

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