Over the Christmas holidays, I replaced my timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and camshaft seals in my 1999 UZJ100. I found the pictures/instructions in @scottm and @spressomon's writeups to be very helpful.
However, I came across some YouTube videos (below) by 1A Auto Parts that were incredibly helpful, so I thought I'd share them. They're actually for a 2002 Tundra, but since it had a 2UZ-FE engine in it, the steps are pretty much the same.
Parts I purchased (had some Amazon gift cards):
Tools I used (other than sockets, wrenches, etc.):
Tools I wish I had:
Things I did differently from the videos:
Camshaft Seal Replacement:
General Notes:
If I was doing it again:
Hope this helps some of you who are on the fence about DIY-ing it. It took a long weekend, but I went slow and it's a great feeling of accomplishment. Everything runs great (so far)!
Part 1:
I can't put more than 2 pieces of media in a thread, so here are the other 2 as links:
Part 2
Part 3
However, I came across some YouTube videos (below) by 1A Auto Parts that were incredibly helpful, so I thought I'd share them. They're actually for a 2002 Tundra, but since it had a 2UZ-FE engine in it, the steps are pretty much the same.
Parts I purchased (had some Amazon gift cards):
- Aisin TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
- Thermostat (90916-03100)
- Thermostat Gasket (16346-50010)
- Camshaft Seal (90311-38065)
- Serpentine/Fan Belt (90916-02586)
- Permatex Black RTV gasket maker. In the video they use a square gasket (in addition to the o-ring) with the thermostat housing, but I used this instead. I think one of the other writeups did as well.
- New coolant. Mine was old and needed changing.
Tools I used (other than sockets, wrenches, etc.):
- Harbor Freight Earthquake XT 1/2" Impact Wrench
- Tekton Shallow Impact Sockets (Deep sockets wouldn't fit between the crank and radiator)
- Harmonic Balancer Remover
- Seal Removal Kit
- Strap Wrench from Home Depot
- LED Lights so I could see
- Torque Wrenches. You'll need one that will go up to 181lbf, and one that goes down to 5.5lbf. I used a 3/8" and 1/2" from Kobalt.
Tools I wish I had:
- 3/8" Air Ratchet. That would have saved a lot of time.
- Some wobble adapters for getting in tight places.
Things I did differently from the videos:
- Didn't remove the radiator.
- Didn't remove the A/C Compressor.
- Removed the oil filter to get the two fan bracket bolts down on the drivers side.
- Used black RTV for part of the thermostat housing.
Camshaft Seal Replacement:
- Used my impact gun to take the cams off.
- Used the seal puller to get between the camshaft and the seal, and then pull it out (similar to the harmonic balancer removal).
- Lubricated the new one with some oil from the oil filter I previously removed.
- Slowly pushed the seal back on, making sure it looked right and the edges weren't caught on anything.
- Lightly tapped it with a rubber mallet until it was flush. Having the other one to compare with was helpful.
- Used a strap wrench to hold the cam at TDC while I torqued it to specs from the FSM.
General Notes:
- I didn't have to be fancy to break the crankshaft bolt loose. I was able to get my impact gun between the crank pulley and the radiator.
- Removing the fan/clutch from the fan bracket will drive you crazy, especially if a nut has seized. PB Blaster is your friend. Have patience. I had to get a new nut because I wasn't.
- Look at a picture of a 2UZ-FE fan bracket so you'll know which bolts to remove down by the oil filter.
- The one I removed by the oil filter had an "8" on it.
- Pay attention to the markings, arrows, and direction on the belt. The right cam is on the passenger's side.
- After you put the timing belt on and crank pulley back on, use a ratchet/breaker bar to turn the crank a full revolution. Then the cams should rotate twice and both be back at TDC. If everything lines up, then you're good to go.
- Make sure you put cardboard down or something while you're working. You'll remove a part and more coolant will start draining out before you can move your catch pan over.
If I was doing it again:
- Spray the fan nuts with PB Blaster a day or two in advance.
- I'd probably go ahead and replace the fan bracket and crankshaft seals. Not that they seemed bad, but it's a lot of work to take everything out to get in there.
- I would spend a little bit more time cleaning dirt/grime off of the parts. I gave them a good wipedown, but could have done better.
Hope this helps some of you who are on the fence about DIY-ing it. It took a long weekend, but I went slow and it's a great feeling of accomplishment. Everything runs great (so far)!
Part 1:
I can't put more than 2 pieces of media in a thread, so here are the other 2 as links:
Part 2
Part 3