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Apr 24, 2016
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Huntsville, AL
Over the Christmas holidays, I replaced my timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and camshaft seals in my 1999 UZJ100. I found the pictures/instructions in @scottm and @spressomon's writeups to be very helpful.

However, I came across some YouTube videos (below) by 1A Auto Parts that were incredibly helpful, so I thought I'd share them. They're actually for a 2002 Tundra, but since it had a 2UZ-FE engine in it, the steps are pretty much the same.

Parts I purchased (had some Amazon gift cards):

Tools I used (other than sockets, wrenches, etc.):

Tools I wish I had:
  • 3/8" Air Ratchet. That would have saved a lot of time.
  • Some wobble adapters for getting in tight places.

Things I did differently from the videos:
  • Didn't remove the radiator.
  • Didn't remove the A/C Compressor.
  • Removed the oil filter to get the two fan bracket bolts down on the drivers side.
  • Used black RTV for part of the thermostat housing.

Camshaft Seal Replacement:
  • Used my impact gun to take the cams off.
  • Used the seal puller to get between the camshaft and the seal, and then pull it out (similar to the harmonic balancer removal).
  • Lubricated the new one with some oil from the oil filter I previously removed.
  • Slowly pushed the seal back on, making sure it looked right and the edges weren't caught on anything.
  • Lightly tapped it with a rubber mallet until it was flush. Having the other one to compare with was helpful.
  • Used a strap wrench to hold the cam at TDC while I torqued it to specs from the FSM.

General Notes:
  • I didn't have to be fancy to break the crankshaft bolt loose. I was able to get my impact gun between the crank pulley and the radiator.
  • Removing the fan/clutch from the fan bracket will drive you crazy, especially if a nut has seized. PB Blaster is your friend. Have patience. I had to get a new nut because I wasn't.
  • Look at a picture of a 2UZ-FE fan bracket so you'll know which bolts to remove down by the oil filter.
  • The one I removed by the oil filter had an "8" on it.
  • Pay attention to the markings, arrows, and direction on the belt. The right cam is on the passenger's side.
  • After you put the timing belt on and crank pulley back on, use a ratchet/breaker bar to turn the crank a full revolution. Then the cams should rotate twice and both be back at TDC. If everything lines up, then you're good to go.
  • Make sure you put cardboard down or something while you're working. You'll remove a part and more coolant will start draining out before you can move your catch pan over.

If I was doing it again:
  • Spray the fan nuts with PB Blaster a day or two in advance.
  • I'd probably go ahead and replace the fan bracket and crankshaft seals. Not that they seemed bad, but it's a lot of work to take everything out to get in there.
  • I would spend a little bit more time cleaning dirt/grime off of the parts. I gave them a good wipedown, but could have done better.

Hope this helps some of you who are on the fence about DIY-ing it. It took a long weekend, but I went slow and it's a great feeling of accomplishment. Everything runs great (so far)!

Part 1:


I can't put more than 2 pieces of media in a thread, so here are the other 2 as links:
Part 2
Part 3
 
TB and H20 pump are on my to do list. When I have some down time I go to these videos as well. I've watched them many many times.

I don't have FSM(cough. cough) I'm sure the numerous threads and pics here, these videos and others, together with FSM, and one should be good to go.

I'm looking to buy an (electric) Ingersoll Rand right angle impact gun to remove crank bolt. I'm just always wondering about how I'm gonna put the crank bolt back. Is the proper torque on that bolt 180ft/lbs??

I'm looking forward to doing this in the summer time.
 
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Used those same videos and replaced everything. I now have the cam seal behind the tensioner pulley leaking oil. I'll be taking mine to the mechanic this time.

It may be a bad seal not sure. But for $500 I'll let them take it all apart.
 
TB and H20 pump are on my to do list. When I have some down time I go to these videos as well. I've watched them many many times.

I don't have FSM(cough. cough) I'm sure the numerous threads and pics here, these videos and others, together with FSM, and one should be good to go.

I'm looking to buy an (electric) Ingersoll Rand right angle impact gun to remove crank bolt. I'm just always wondering about how I'm gonna put the crank bolt back. Is the proper torque on that bolt 180ft/lbs??

I'm looking forward to doing this in the summer time.

Here's a digital copy of the FSM for a 2004 that somebody posted, which should be close enough. Yes the proper torque is 181ft/lbs, which is a lot. Be careful with the FSM, as some of the torques aren't converted correctly from metric to US (at least I noticed a typo with one).
 
Used those same videos and replaced everything. I now have the cam seal behind the tensioner pulley leaking oil. I'll be taking mine to the mechanic this time.

It may be a bad seal not sure. But for $500 I'll let them take it all apart.

Agreed. If anything leaks from the seals I replaced, I'm taking it to a mechanic and letting a professional handle it.
 
Got a little scared there for a sec when the timing marks on the belt didn't match back up after turning it, but then I looked at the marks on the cams/crank relative to their guides... :meh: Such a doofus sometimes. This post was a great help. Thanks!
 
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