Stupid simple Question. (1 Viewer)

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Nov 21, 2008
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Ramer Alabama
I am installing a new dizzy. well it's been 20years since my last engine rebuild. No I am not that good I just dicovered that thong thay call diesel fuel.:grinpimp:

Anyway I marked my cap. pulled wires and plug's got my timeing mark to the TDC #1 closest to the radiator. Well then I am just studying every thing and notice that my rotor button is pointing at the #6 pin on my rotor cap. Now my thinking is that my favorite person in the world (MY P.O. :censor:moron) Has this truck 180 out of time. But I just want confermation Before I turn into the Moron.

So at top dead center the rotor should piont at the #1 pin on the cap. firing order following from there. RIGHT?
 
Right.
 
Thanks pig head I should know (By now) That anything my P.O. did is Wrong till proven right.
 
I am installing a new dizzy. well it's been 20years since my last engine rebuild. No I am not that good I just dicovered that thong thay call diesel fuel.:grinpimp:

Anyway I marked my cap. pulled wires and plug's got my timeing mark to the TDC #1 closest to the radiator. Well then I am just studying every thing and notice that my rotor button is pointing at the #6 pin on my rotor cap. Now my thinking is that my favorite person in the world (MY P.O. :censor:moron) Has this truck 180 out of time. But I just want confermation Before I turn into the Moron.

So at top dead center the rotor should piont at the #1 pin on the cap. firing order following from there. RIGHT?






Your engine is at top dead center of the exhaust stroke. Rotate the engine 360 degrees, one full rotation, and you will be on top dead center of the compression stroke.


Your engine will not run well enough to make power and be drivable, if the ignition timing is 180 degrees out.
 
Yep, with both valves closed and at TDC, the rotor should be at 1.. I have in the past moved my leads around one position to gain better timing adjustment, some POs do this.. One of my 40s had the distributor in 180 degrees out, so the plugs leads were just swapped 180 degrees.. Be certain that the distributor shaft has engaged the oil pump properly when you reinstall.. Just some things to be aware of.
 
Stardate.............

How long has the internal combustion 4 stroke engine been around?....:hmm:
 
But what bothered me was really being sure I had the slot engaged for oil pressure. I had pulled the oil filter and watched it pump up through but it still bugged me to know if it was really seated fully.


I took the distrib back out and reinstalled but this time I rotated the slot for the pump (in the block) backwards and intentionally mis-aligned it just a little with the distrib end. When I put the dizzy in i just gave it a slight down pressure with one hand and pulled the fan belt with the other-- I felt it "snick" into place and drop so that felt much better than just looking at the dizzy height.

You sure make a lot of work out of seating the dizzy. Pighead just stands on the wheel on the passengerside fender, so he can reach over, gets the dizzy gear engaged with the cam gear, puts the dizzy cap back on (but no wires yet), and leans on the dizzy cap with one hand and uses an endwrench to jump the starter terminals with the other hand. You can feel when the dizzy drops into place. Hear it too. It goes "THUNK".
 
These are the engines I usually mess with but I somehow manage to fix a light bulb or turn a wrench in my garage occasionally--- and to try to be helpful to others

Just FYI, that is a picture of a cockpit. The engines would be farther aft in the picture...














:D

:cheers:
 
As far as doing it over, I know I had it right beforehand without feeling it snick into place cause it to pumped oil -- but time, sweat, :bang:$$,$$$ involved in this project makes me fret over ruining something on my first cruiser it is :banana: but not something to screw up!:meh:/QUOTE]


Agree that this is one place you want to double-check yourself ...triple check is not out of the question.
 

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