Stuck pushrod (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 4, 2022
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Cape Town, South Africa
Hey guys, I posted a few days ago about my non USA FJ60 that wouldn't start after I did a valve adjustment. Today I decided to redo my valve adjustment only to find that the last pushrod on the first half of the adjustments is stuck, so the rocker arm will not lift off of the valve. Has anybody experienced this before? What do I do?
 
Pushrods push the rocker arms and the rocker arms are spring loaded by the valve springs. At some point in the crankshaft revolution, every pushrod is pushing a rocker arm and is under pressure — and will be tight.
Also remember that the crankshaft has to turn twice for every complete combustion cycle. Exhaust and compression. Four stroke motor.
If checking and adjusting the valves when the engine is off, the crankshaft has to be in the the right position. There’s two TDC alignments of the crankshaft. One of them you don’t want.
 
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I am so sorry to waste your time. It turns out that I somehow managed to fit my rotor on my dizzy 180 degrees in the wrong direction. Which explains why my valve adjustment sequence was backwards. Hopefully some other rookies can learn from me. Thank you for your reply though.
Pushrods push the rocker arms and the rocker arms are spring loaded by the valve springs. At some point in the crankshaft revolution, every pushrod is pushing a rocker arm and is under pressure — and will be tight.
Also remember that the crankshaft has to turn twice for every complete combustion cycle. Exhaust and compression. Four stroke motor.
If checking and adjusting the valves when the engine is off, the crankshaft has to be in the the right position. There’s two TDC alignments of the crankshaft. One of them you don’t want.
 
If you tried to start your truck with the rotor 180 degrees off, your truck won't run regardless what the valves are. The rotor should be keyed to the distributor shaft--there is a flat spot on the shaft so the rotor can only be installed on one position. If you put it on in the wrong spot, the rotor was probably sitting too high and if you tried to start your truck you could have damaged your rotor or your cap. Inspect those for damage before you proceed.

When I adjust my valves I remove all the spark plugs, but I don't remove the distributor cap. I know I am at TDC when the timing pointer is aligned with the scribed line on the fly wheel. I turn the engine over by hand by using a wrench/socket on the alternator pulley bolt (I'm not sure about the layout of your engine). With the plugs removed, the engine is pretty easy to turn over this way if your v-belts are tight. As I approach TDC, I put my thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. If I am on the compression stroke, I can feel the air push past my thumb.
 

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