Stock bumper stout enough for jacking with a hi-lift?

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Anyone know if the stock bumpers are stout enough to jack the vehicle up with? In Africa we always put some type of C channel for jacking points so the jack didn't slip....but we also had much heavier duty bumpers - similar to ARBS.

I was thinking about bolting/welding some C channel on either side below the fog light hole covers?? Just didn't want to try it and rip off a bumper if someone else already had the experience :D

Not too worried about the rear as I can actually jack up with the hitch receiver as a jacking point. Just don't have anything for the front.

Thanks,
 
Sure you can. If you want to destroy the bumper, and possibly damage your rig. :lol:
 
No way. If you're going to get the welder out though, seems like you could fashion something as the points where the bumpers mount are stout and that's also where the factory tow hook are.

DougM
 
the front bumper is a decorative piece of tin, don't even lean your hi-lift there.:rolleyes:
 
the front bumper is a decorative piece of tin, don't even lean your hi-lift there.:rolleyes:

:lol: How true!

Hi-lift is good for removing OEM bumpers and running boards, if you don't mind jagged holes where they mounted to the 80. :rolleyes:
 
The stock bumper isn't stout enough for a toy jack from my nephew's toy box. I bent mine standing on it, and I'm not a fatty, 175lbs.
 
Yeah, I tried the Hi Lift on the stock front bumper... ONCE!
It didn't take very many clicks to bend my front bumper slightly.

JJ
 
if you want to keep the stock bumper, but add lifting points, you could run a length of c-channel (or 1x2, or whatever) from frame rail to frame rail, under the bumper.
 
if you want to keep the stock bumper, but add lifting points, you could run a length of c-channel (or 1x2, or whatever) from frame rail to frame rail, under the bumper.

You would still bend the bumper until it contacted the c-channel.

I don't know about you, but I do not want any movement when lifting a 6k+ lb vehicle. If you had it up in the air, the bumper skin could slide on the c-channel and...well....bad things from there.
 
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My similar two cents: don't even look at the stock bumper as it may bend just from looking at it. It's only for dubious decorative purposes and serves nothing. The bolt-on plastic corners won't even let you bump anything as the name implies.
 
Please take video;p:D
 
what I meant w/ the c-channel is that you could bolt/weld c=channel to the underside of the bumper, and tie it into the frame rails in some fashion

but i agree with everyone that the bumper, per se, is weak and no-good for lifting

If I had a pic of my bumper, I'd post it.... I know how weak it is, trust me.
 
Thanks guys. I assumed as much. Guess I will just add the $800-$1k to the modification budget for the ARB bumper.
 
Thanks guys. I assumed as much. Guess I will just add the $800-$1k to the modification budget for the ARB bumper.

ARB bumpers are nice. I recommend looking into Metal Techs bumper. I just got one and I really like it. Cheaper too! $695 for a raw steel one.
 
Thanks guys. I assumed as much. Guess I will just add the $800-$1k to the modification budget for the ARB bumper.

There is really no good place for using a Hi Lift on the ARB bumper thingy ether? :confused:
 
Sure you can. If you want to destroy the bumper, and possibly damage your rig. :lol:

X2 on this! Trust me i will work! It will damage your rig!:o
 
Thanks guys. I assumed as much. Guess I will just add the $800-$1k to the modification budget for the ARB bumper.


well, the ARB does not have great lifting points.
What I've done is to put a couple of D shackles in the eyelet with a bit of rubber between the shackles and the bumper and lifted things that way with a Hilift.

Then again, doesn't somebody sell a direct adapter for these things? Christo maybe?
 

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