I use 20w-50. But I like to do half synthetic and half regular oil. I don't know if it makes that much of a difference as long as you change the oil regularly.
Stock 2f... What Oil Do You Use?
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FJTOYMAN said:
These are multigrade or multiviscosity oil weights. There are polymers added to the oil that allow the viscosity to increase as the oil heats.
In the case of a 20w-50, the first number is the cold viscosity and the second number, it's viscosity when hot.
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Ah, in meeting the requirments of diesel engines, most dino diesel motor oils have by default, fallen into 15w-40 as a standard.
The one factor that would definately put me into the synth camp is extreme temperature, ...especially cold temperature.
If you compare the cold pour points of dino and synthetic, you will find across the board, that synths are far more stable, whereas dino's thicken up quite a bit.
IMO, when you factor in the loss of electrical current in extreme cold starting, synths become a much greater advantage, as would be the case in all the drivetrain fluids.
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The one factor that would definately put me into the synth camp is extreme temperature, ...especially cold temperature.
If you compare the cold pour points of dino and synthetic, you will find across the board, that synths are far more stable, whereas dino's thicken up quite a bit.
IMO, when you factor in the loss of electrical current in extreme cold starting, synths become a much greater advantage, as would be the case in all the drivetrain fluids.
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FJTOYMAN said:
Gallon jugs RULE... you are definately right with that one.
I usually run Valvoline 10w30 if I remember correctly. Used to use reg. mobil 10w40 but I seemed to get that nasty sludge in the oil cap with it.
LowcountryTLC said:
I aquired my current 60 w/ 112K miles on it and regular, dealer service life(which in these parts means Mobil 20W-50). I put "synthetic blend" in it for about 8K miles, then switched it to Valvoline synthetic 20W-50. Absolutely no leaks. The syn's been in there about 3 months now.
i've been running the Rotella gallon cans and it's been great. truck seems to like it. nice thick and keeps consisitent pressure without going 20/50.
i'm terrified to go synthetic as i doubt it ever had synthetic and fear it dripping like a sieve. currently, there's only one minorish leak around what i think is the drain pan.
i'm terrified to go synthetic as i doubt it ever had synthetic and fear it dripping like a sieve. currently, there's only one minorish leak around what i think is the drain pan.
My valves make a horrible ticking sound. I've checked all the rods, they turn free. I've done a valve adjustment per FSM and double checked it.
Would running an oil other than 10w-30 help? Here in Salem, Oregon it dosen't get below 32 offten. In fact I thing average temp here now is 45*. I was thinking of trying some 15w-40 since I have that at home for my tow rig.
Would running an oil other than 10w-30 help? Here in Salem, Oregon it dosen't get below 32 offten. In fact I thing average temp here now is 45*. I was thinking of trying some 15w-40 since I have that at home for my tow rig.
I believe that the synthetics, like Mobil 1, provide five measureable advantages...
1. Better gas mileage - I averaged 15.5 MPG WHILE TOWING MY OR TRIALER, from Winemucca, NV to Dixon, CA. That includes crossing Donner Pass East to West. I consider this very good milage for a stock 60.
2. Superior protection - long stories involved here, but I have very positive experiences with syn in my vehicles over the years.
3. Oil longevity due to less viscocity break down.
4. Better for the engine, and much less ash is generated from syn.
5. More HP from the engine - as mentioned in the posts about performance maasured on the dino.
I drive long distances - often in remote areas. For me, reliabilty is an absolute requirement. I feel the syn oils offer an edge.
M
1. Better gas mileage - I averaged 15.5 MPG WHILE TOWING MY OR TRIALER, from Winemucca, NV to Dixon, CA. That includes crossing Donner Pass East to West. I consider this very good milage for a stock 60.
2. Superior protection - long stories involved here, but I have very positive experiences with syn in my vehicles over the years.
3. Oil longevity due to less viscocity break down.
4. Better for the engine, and much less ash is generated from syn.
5. More HP from the engine - as mentioned in the posts about performance maasured on the dino.
I drive long distances - often in remote areas. For me, reliabilty is an absolute requirement. I feel the syn oils offer an edge.
M
10W-30 seems a bit thin for these engines unless you're in subzero temps etc. 15W-40 might be nice...I just switched my mini truck from 10W-30 to 5W-40 and the valve tap noise MAY be a LITTLE quieter, and the hot-start death rattle noise has definitely quieted down. BTW, I compared the 10W-30 to the 5W-40 in identcal clear containers at room temp, and the 10W-30 seemed REALLY thin and watery next to the 5W-40(both syn.)FJTOYMAN said:
i run 10w-30 (conventional oil) for better or for worse
my dad ran it in his 62 for 275,000 miles, still going strong when he sold it, so i guess it works well enough for me too
same oil is used in the 80 as well.
my dad ran it in his 62 for 275,000 miles, still going strong when he sold it, so i guess it works well enough for me too
same oil is used in the 80 as well.
O
oldgrey60
Guest
40W Royal Purple full synthetic
Valvoline 30 racing its cheap and really good oil. If it gets cold where you are a multi weight would be better. But in So Cal a straight 30 in a 2F will keep the valvs quiet and provides a grat schok load barrier from the torque of the 2F.
Dynosoar
Dynosoar