Steering wheel fix options (9 Viewers)

[pavell]

Hey guys

My steering wheel finish is starting to wear off and I’m getting my tie rods replaced so alignment coming up soon! That means I’m considering either recovering the steering wheel or replacing it with an eBay wheel? Any recommendations ?

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the steering wheel in order to recover it with one of those re-wrap kits? It looks like someone may have already put one of those kits on my wheel ?

Any suggestions ? I’m not too picky I just want something that presents a little nicer. Open to ideas thanks !

 

[Rednexus]

I put a Loncky cover on my GX about 2 years ago. It's holding up very well - seems to be OEM quality leather. It takes a couple hours to sew on if you remove the steering wheel (which should take <15 minutes). Kind of tedious, but not hard. Using a lot of the tape they include will keep it snug. Looks like a 100-series cover $59. And, it does look like you might already have one on there - I'd just pull it off and replace it.

Toyota

Toyota Steering Wheel Cover,Toyota Gear Shift Knob Cover,Toyota Handbrake Cover

www.lonckyauto.com

 

[Exiled]

That looks like there's already a Loncky or something similar on there, so it might be as simple as replacing it. I have a 6-yr old Loncky on my white 100 that is doing the same thing.

 

[GerLC100]

To be very honest: this look like dirt ON the leather to me and not broken leather... Mine is getting hard and starts crumbling slightly. And it looks different than what I see on your pics.
Did you properly try to use soap/ water and/or leather cleaner on it?!

 

[Super77]

I did a full R&R on my steering wheel. I used a fitted REPLACEMENT wrap, not a cover that goes on top of the factory leather.

Lessons learned:

- if you’ve never done it before, the wheel has to come off, the airbag needs to be removed, and it will take you 3x longer than you imagine.

- getting the thread tension and stitch pattern down is key. You cannot just start stitching in a random spot and work your way around, because you’ll be pushing any wrinkles into a bunch. I “pre-stitched” at the spokes and 10, 12, and 2 o’clock positions so that the wrap would not move around. I would then pop loose the “pre-stitches” when I reached them with my finish stitches. I’m not thrilled with my precision, but I don’t feel like redoing them now. Maybe a winter project.

- your steering wheel body (made of high density foam) is probably loose on the wheel’s steel core. Take the time to inject some epoxy into the body, or else you’ll end up with a loose wrap. All the torquing you do during stitching will undo the 20+ year old factory glue. Don’t use glue on the wrap, except for a small amount of contact cement or spray adhesive at the spokes. You want to be able to reposition it as you go. That’s why tension is important.

- learn how to reset your SRS fault code. Removing the airbag will likely trip it. Technically, you can avoid this, but mine tripped despite disconnecting the battery.

- when buying pay attention to whether it’s a wrap or a cover. Wraps are fitted to the “naked” wheel and include the spokes, just like from the factory.

- wrap a test length of thread around your fingers and pull hard. Good thread will cut into your hand before it breaks. Buy stronger thread if it doesn’t.

Your pics look like you have an aftermarket cover on top of the factory wrap. Peel it carefully and see what’s underneath but I’d doubt someone covered a perfectly good wheel.

I’d personally avoid an “eBay wheel” and any Chinese-made covers. And pay attention to whether it’s genuine or fake leather. You’ll regret anything synthetic. Expect to pay $75-$150 for a high quality leather wrap that is cut precisely and will stretch well.

 

[SmoothLC]

I did a full R&R on my steering wheel. I used a fitted REPLACEMENT wrap, not a cover that goes on top of the factory leather.

View attachment 4008408

View attachment 4008409
Lessons learned:

- if you’ve never done it before, the wheel has to come off, the airbag needs to be removed, and it will take you 3x longer than you imagine.

- getting the thread tension and stitch pattern down is key. You cannot just start stitching in a random spot and work your way around, because you’ll be pushing any wrinkles into a bunch. I “pre-stitched” at the spokes and 10, 12, and 2 o’clock positions so that the wrap would not move around. I would then pop loose the “pre-stitches” when I reached them with my finish stitches. I’m not thrilled with my precision, but I don’t feel like redoing them now. Maybe a winter project.

- your steering wheel body (made of high density foam) is probably loose on the wheel’s steel core. Take the time to inject some epoxy into the body, or else you’ll end up with a loose wrap. All the torquing you do during stitching will undo the 20+ year old factory glue. Don’t use glue on the wrap, except for a small amount of contact cement or spray adhesive at the spokes. You want to be able to reposition it as you go. That’s why tension is important.

- learn how to reset your SRS fault code. Removing the airbag will likely trip it. Technically, you can avoid this, but mine tripped despite disconnecting the battery.

- when buying pay attention to whether it’s a wrap or a cover. Wraps are fitted to the “naked” wheel and include the spokes, just like from the factory.

- wrap a test length of thread around your fingers and pull hard. Good thread will cut into your hand before it breaks. Buy stronger thread if it doesn’t.

Your pics look like you have an aftermarket cover on top of the factory wrap. Peel it carefully and see what’s underneath but I’d doubt someone covered a perfectly good wheel.

I’d personally avoid an “eBay wheel” and any Chinese-made covers. And pay attention to whether it’s genuine or fake leather. You’ll regret anything synthetic. Expect to pay $75-$150 for a high quality leather wrap that is cut precisely and will stretch well.

Got any links to the replacement wrap you used @Super77?

 

[Super77]

Got any links to the replacement wrap you used @Super77?

I bought from Alan Gun Leather in FL, but I would not do it again. Price was reasonable and the leather is nice quality and a perfect color match, but the pattern was not quite accurate and I found him difficult to deal with. I ended up doing a lot of rework and trimming.