Steering stabilizer

[izzyandsue]

How is the original stabilizer removed? I have a 97 LC, completing the lift that had been a 2 day ordeal.
The nuts came out fine, the plate fine too. But it is stuck to the plate and the arm. Is it threaded? I see a small hole like for screw driver or pin insert. Or just hammer the sucker out?

 

[retrofive]

It's tapered. Use a fork tool/pickle fork or such to remove. Heat and BFG

 

[izzyandsue]

BFG? Googled that but only came up with BFG Goodrich.
Heat and pry bar basically? Thanks, spent the morning drilling and tapping rear sway bar holes. Trying to avoid another break.

 

[Golgo13]

retrofive meant BFH... Big F-ing Hammer. A ball joint removal tool should work too...Heat will likely be necessary, but only use it as a last resort so you don't start a fire in your garage when the boot and grease ignite.

 

[bluecruiser]

Ball joint remover worked great. Just a cheap one from any auto parts store will work for you.

 

[retrofive]

retrofive meant BFH... Big F-ing Hammer. A ball joint removal tool should work too...Heat will likely be necessary, but only use it as a last resort so you don't start a fire in your garage when the boot and grease ignite.

Yep.

 

[izzyandsue]

I think I need one. Used heat, pry bar, Thor hammer to the point the bolt began to collapse a bit. So picking up tool? That don't work will stop and take to pro. Too many headaches for "simple job"

 

[izzyandsue]

Going to autozone in Barbie Girl car

 

[retrofive]

Sidenote, when you install the new one, being that it is tapered it will not be flush, there will be a small gap. Tighten it up good and should be fine.

 

[bmac1996acc]

Ball joint remover worked great. Just a cheap one from any auto parts store will work for you.View attachment 1007804

Pickle fork wouldn't get it for me. I used a ball joint remover like the one in the bottom center of this kit. It didn't work by itself. I tightened it as much as I thought was close to breaking the tool. Then I used a torch to heat up the joint. Tapped the side of the joint a few times and everything flew apart.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

yeah, I used a tie rod end remover iirc. fwiw the monroe semi-universal replacement i used is working great.

 

[izzyandsue]

Tried everything, got more tools, bigger hammers, bigger tools, propane torch, lasers, ninjas, and that baby is not moving, so I am giving up, too much time for me. Will bring to my techs next week if they are in. Drove it it as is for a bit, taking some bumpy roads and I can tell its a huge difference from stock, much tighter ride and composed over bumps. My old shocks must have been cheap ones, they didn't look that old.

While a few mins, got a p0402, excessive flow EGR. Erased it and will see if it comes back, not sure if anything got knocked about as I was wrestling the suspension in.

Thank you all for your inputs, really sorry it didn't pan out. At least the manager at Autozone made the store budget with me today! And I learned to drill and tap a stuck bolt.

 

[izzyandsue]

Done! Took it to Endy's Imports and they had the right tools and attitude to do this, not to mention Scott is like 7feet tall and built like a lineman.

Now with the new stabilizer on, I was amazed that the steering wheel is a lot straighter, used to be about 8-10 degrees off, now it's almost straight, 2-3. That's using my eyeball meter, granted, but it's noticeable.

Offending stabilizer below, will take to Bragg and use it for target practice.

 

[Blade 80LC]

Well heck. I saw this thread's title in December, and thought, "What dunderhead can't figure out how to to unscrew 2 "F"ing nuts?" (...and didn't read the post or replies.)
So today I tried to remove my steering damper. Repeat issue of OP. Give up. Put the nuts back on. Go home. (I work on my truck at my mommy's house, 'cause I'm too poor to have a driveway.) Search MUD. Find this thread. Remember how smart I felt in December. Feel foolish today. derp de derp An inclined plane or wedge offer mechanical advantage? It almost like SCIENCE up in here!

Now I should search for (and print) the instructions how to replace the shocks. I took a half hearted shot at it after the steering stabilizer kicked my butt. Result of that? Four Icon shocks in the garage, and four raggedy shocks still on my 80.

 

[izzyandsue]

I replaced my shocks and drove for a week with the original steering stabilizer, not a big deal. Getting the truck on a lift helped to get the right angle to whack the shiat out of it, and remove other components to give more room to work in. Doing it in a professional garage, even they had to swap different tools and took them a good 30 mins of wrestling, I know them well so I was right there watching it. I guess some of these come off easier than others.

In the end, some fights can be won with small arms fire, but then some you need to dial in the artillery. This one required the latter for me.

 

[Hornd]

Rear shocks are tough, but fronts are easy.
If your not familiar with suspension work, your likely in for a lot of frustration.

 

[Golgo13]

I have two of these steering rods in my garage with the stabilizer attached. I figured it would just be easier to replace the daggone tie-rod end. It was, but still wasn't easy to break those basterds free. Then I cut a hole in the shock tube and pitched it in the trash. I'm thinking about having some large nuts welded to the OD of the tube to make it easier to grip later. F-ing rust!

 

[Blade 80LC]

I'm used to California trucks that have virtually no rust. Mine has more than I'm used to, but really not much. Not counting what's left of the nuts holding on my O2 sensors. Those have rusted to sickly little cones of rust. I bought some nut extracting sockets (top flight Harbor Freight gear) to see how much damage I can do. Next step I suppose would be to cut off the bungs, and weld on new ones. Did I mention I live in CA? Even most of the exhaust system seems to be made of metal, not just rust.

As far as working on my suspension.... I put leaf spring add-a-leafs on my first Toyota, and replace 4 leaves on my next 4x4; but that was many years ago.

 

[mosalf]

Need to get this done on my 80 soon. Have seen oil dripping from the current Stabilizer....wondering if I should drive down to the mechanic (10 miles with heavy traffic) or should I put it on a pick up?

Dont have any expertise on a DIY. Do all of you recommend the OME stabilizer?

 

[Blade 80LC]

Need to get this done on my 80 soon. Have seen oil dripping from the current Stabilizer....wondering if I should drive down to the mechanic (10 miles with heavy traffic) or should I put it on a pick up?

Dont have any expertise on a DIY. Do all of you recommend the OME stabilizer?

The steering stabilizer leaking would not cause me to skip driving my truck. If it were bent, I'd work to get it off before driving. I consider the steering stabilizer a desirable part, but not critical. Driving a few miles without one would not cause me ANY concern. Keep your hands on the wheel, and get a sense of how the steering goes. I think think most people choose the OME stabilizer. If you're paying a shop to replace it, I wouldn't bother trying save a couple bucks by using this generic part off Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59SOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the generic stabilizer, and have been very satisfied. Some car parts stores will rent out a "pickle fork" or other ball joint remover if you want to try the job yourself. You'll enjoy your rig more if you fix some things yourself. Replacing the steering stabilizer might be a perfect first job to tackle. If you fail to get it loose on the first try, you can bolt it back up.

Are you sure the stabilizer is leaking? Could it be something above it is leaking and dripping on it?