Starts and then starts dropping idle and stalls after 5 seconds (1 Viewer)

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Apr 19, 2021
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Location
united states
Hi guys new to forums but I have read on here a lot. I have a 1990 4 runner with a 91 pickup 22re in it. I was driving one day and it started reving high and low a lot and I parked it at my house. I replaced fuel filter, checked egr, plugged hole
I’m throttle body to check iacv and that wasn’t it. Got a new boot cause mine had a crack in it. And so I went and checked it and it got to the point of where I would start and it would idle fine for 5 seconds and then stall. So I figured fuel was getting cut off. So I hook up fp and b+ and was told it bypasses the COR and it started up fine and idled. But when I take the clip out it dies. So I thought bad relay. So I checked to see if it clicks and it does. I checked ohms. It checks out. I checked continuity. It’s good. So idk
If it’s maybe the pins inside the clip that goes into the relay itself or? I tried checking 2 of the pins with it jumped with key in on position and it came to 11.49 v and I can hear the fuel pump making the electrical nose and I have fuel pressure coming through. I checked the afm and these are my readings.
Test 0* vb-vc ~100 (mines 100.7)
Test 1. E2-vs 20-400 (mines 362)
Test 2. E2-vc 100-300 (mines 180)
Test 3. E2-vb 200-400 ( mines 281)
Test 4. (Temp was 72 degrees outside) came to 1728
Test 5. E1-fc infinite/open
My flap test for the door on it was this——
Test 1. E1-fc closed was infinite
Open any amount was 0.
test 2. E2-vs 20-400 full closed (mine was 360)
20-1000 closed to fully open mine went to 250. Was told on 4crawlers page that any number between is okay as long as it’s not below 20 or over 1000. I’m stumped on what it could be and I already ordered a relay. I took the case off the relay and it’s clean. No rust or corrosion inside.
 
Hi guys new to forums but I have read on here a lot. I have a 1990 4 runner with a 91 pickup 22re in it. I was driving one day and it started reving high and low a lot and I parked it at my house. I replaced fuel filter, checked egr, plugged hole
I’m throttle body to check iacv and that wasn’t it. Got a new boot cause mine had a crack in it. And so I went and checked it and it got to the point of where I would start and it would idle fine for 5 seconds and then stall. So I figured fuel was getting cut off. So I hook up fp and b+ and was told it bypasses the COR and it started up fine and idled. But when I take the clip out it dies. So I thought bad relay. So I checked to see if it clicks and it does. I checked ohms. It checks out. I checked continuity. It’s good. So idk
If it’s maybe the pins inside the clip that goes into the relay itself or? I tried checking 2 of the pins with it jumped with key in on position and it came to 11.49 v and I can hear the fuel pump making the electrical nose and I have fuel pressure coming through. I checked the afm and these are my readings.
Test 0* vb-vc ~100 (mines 100.7)
Test 1. E2-vs 20-400 (mines 362)
Test 2. E2-vc 100-300 (mines 180)
Test 3. E2-vb 200-400 ( mines 281)
Test 4. (Temp was 72 degrees outside) came to 1728
Test 5. E1-fc infinite/open
My flap test for the door on it was this——
Test 1. E1-fc closed was infinite
Open any amount was 0.
test 2. E2-vs 20-400 full closed (mine was 360)
20-1000 closed to fully open mine went to 250. Was told on 4crawlers page that any number between is okay as long as it’s not below 20 or over 1000. I’m stumped on what it could be and I already ordered a relay. I took the case off the relay and it’s clean. No rust or corrosion inside.

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Hi guys new to forums but I have read on here a lot. I have a 1990 4 runner with a 91 pickup 22re in it. I was driving one day and it started reving high and low a lot and I parked it at my house. I replaced fuel filter, checked egr, plugged hole
I’m throttle body to check iacv and that wasn’t it. Got a new boot cause mine had a crack in it. And so I went and checked it and it got to the point of where I would start and it would idle fine for 5 seconds and then stall. So I figured fuel was getting cut off. So I hook up fp and b+ and was told it bypasses the COR and it started up fine and idled. But when I take the clip out it dies. So I thought bad relay. So I checked to see if it clicks and it does. I checked ohms. It checks out. I checked continuity. It’s good. So idk
If it’s maybe the pins inside the clip that goes into the relay itself or? I tried checking 2 of the pins with it jumped with key in on position and it came to 11.49 v and I can hear the fuel pump making the electrical nose and I have fuel pressure coming through. I checked the afm and these are my readings.
Test 0* vb-vc ~100 (mines 100.7)
Test 1. E2-vs 20-400 (mines 362)
Test 2. E2-vc 100-300 (mines 180)
Test 3. E2-vb 200-400 ( mines 281)
Test 4. (Temp was 72 degrees outside) came to 1728
Test 5. E1-fc infinite/open
My flap test for the door on it was this——
Test 1. E1-fc closed was infinite
Open any amount was 0.
test 2. E2-vs 20-400 full closed (mine was 360)
20-1000 closed to fully open mine went to 250. Was told on 4crawlers page that any number between is okay as long as it’s not below 20 or over 1000. I’m stumped on what it could be and I already ordered a relay. I took the case off the relay and it’s clean. No rust or corrosion inside.
Okay. So I figured out that if I have a multimeter on yellow and green wire to terminal with the COR plugged in and I touch the other probe to a piece of metal I am able to keep the vehicle going. So it shows me that it don’t have ground. But all my grounds on my vehicle are attached where they should be.
 

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