Starting issues... (1 Viewer)

[mobydick]

Cruiser left me stranded last night and I've been trying to chase down the problem today...outside, on my back on the ground, first on ice and now in a puddle of cold cold water. It's not the following: Starter or it's connections. Battery or it's connections. FSM's next suggestions are the NSS or the fusible link in that order. The FL is a mystery to me..I have opened and close every connection I can access and get apart. No help. The connections to the NSS are solid and clean and the switch itself seems aligned right. Between those 2 issues does anyone have an opinion/experience they can share that could help me. Is there a way to bypass either issue to single it out?? Those 2 things probably could use replacing anyhow but in the mean time??

 

[gnob]

All that and no symptom?

 

[mobydick]

Come fix it Aric.

 

[gnob]

No. It's cold. Playoffs are on

Can you jumper the starter and make it crank?

Do you know how to work a voltage meter?

 

[mobydick]

It's been starting fine but last night when it was freakishly cold I stopped to get pizza for the bitches. Went back out to leave and click click like a poor connection somewhere. After fiddling endlessly we had it towed. I pulled and cleaned all the starter and battery connections, checked for 12.5 volts at the battery and all that's good. I recently had to repair a blown coolant hose leading to the oil cooler on the block so I thought maybe I'd messed up the connections to the NSS so I cleaned and reconnected, check the connection at the switch. Looks fine. Do you know if the switch itself is something that can be torn down or is it sealed?

 

[mobydick]

Yaa, I've checked voltage at the battery but could not get 12 volts at the starter when Daphne turned the key for me. I pulled the starter and tested it and also the spare starter I have(on the bench) and both are working. You are right...it is cold.

Not good at testing continuity with the meter though. I think in the interests of restoration, since I'm wanting to replace what I can right now I'm gonna see what those cost and if they're even available.

 

[mobydick]

When I tested the starters it was on the bench, not installed. Can I bypass the FL while in the truck? Is that what you meant?

Seems to me that I could connect the battery pos to the starter direct with my jumper cables to make it crank...that what you meant ??

 

[gnob]

More or less.
You should be able to jump power from the hot to the solenoid wire and run it in the truck.

 

[mobydick]

I will try that in the morning. Thanks.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

To be clear he's talking about the small wire going to the starter. Pull it off and jump from the battery to that terminal on the starter. Make sure it's not in gear, and don't stand in front of the truck while doing this!

 

[gnob]

Heres something that didn't dawn on me. Try to start in N if you haven't done so. The PRNDL switch mat be mutherfxxxing up

 

[mobydick]

I've tried Aric. Neutral or park..no go. I thought since that leaking hose by the oil cooler is sorta close to the NSS maybe it got full of water somehow and shorted or froze and broke something. Thanks Jerod, that's what I figured he meant.

 

[gnob]

Just hold key to starr and run the gambit

 

[mobydick]

OK. Holding the key to "start" and running through all positions provides no starter cranking. In neutral and park running a jumper wire direct from Bat Pos terminal to starter blade terminal causes solenoid clicking but no turning over. (starter bench tested fine). Also turned the engine a little to make sure it still "did" that, np.

 

[gnob]

So that leaves the battery or cable. Does the 60 series use a starter relay?

 

[mobydick]

I see no "starter relay" on the schematic. There is a "main relay" but not starter.

 

[gnob]

Have you simply tried to jump it off another vehicle?

 

[mobydick]

Yep tried that. I was checking the 2 connections again from the NSS harness where it connects to the engine harness(?) and noticed that one had a broken click tab that holds it together(but was solidly held together) and when I was trying to pull it apart with the help of some spray electrical parts cleaner before I got the 2 halves separated the individual leads just slid on out of the connector! UGh! Now i have the whole switch itself out and I'm gonna disassemble looking for any obvious breaks or s***ty contacts. The switch itself moves freely so who knows. There are 2 connectors, one blue with 3 leads and one white with 2 leads. The white one is the one that pulled apart. I did NOT see which wire went where when it came apart. I may have to do a quick switch on those 2 wires after I clean and reinstall. These are obviously repairs best done outside, in winter, on ice or in water.....in order to fully appreciate the Toyota's ingenuity.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I'm gonna guess you have dirty contacts inside the starter. If your starter looks like this one, you can pull the oddly shaped cover off and clean up all the copper contacts. Or see if your contacts are worn out....

 

[mobydick]

The first thing I did was pull the starter and bench tested it. It was ok although failed to spin every time, so I pulled out my old starter which I went completely through cleaning up the brushes, which were in good shape and replaced all the copper contacts and plunger, etc. it tested perfect so I put that one back in...and no dice. I'll got a new Flink and Neutral safety switch due in tomorrow. I'll get all that in and then.....turn the key.