Starter replacement (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 31, 2003
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Just replaced my starter (96) on short notice. Yesterday at 10 minutes to five it locked on me and wouldn't disengage. (92,000 miles). I turned the car off and it stopped, but had nearly every warning light on the dash on, including brake. I didnt try to start it again, since I figured from what I had read here on the board that I had the "welded/ sticking" plunger problem.

After briefly considering just ordering the contacts, I thought about the trip Im supposed to take on Friday and decided to bite the bullet and just install a new one. Local dealer had one in stock

After removing the ds tire and the last rubber flap inside the wheel well, and disconneting the positive battery terminal. I began my education. Wasnt too hard to get the lid of the postive cable connector up, and the bolt off, and for a change the other clip-in electical connection actually clipped out easily.

However, the two bolts that held the starter were enormous PITAs :'(. To break the upper one loose, I used two extensions and a step stool and broke it from above with a pipe extension on the wrench. (It must have taken 40-50 minutes to get to this point by trial and error.) There is not a lot of play at all, and the brake lines are in your way in there. The lower bolt I got from underneath the car and found it to be much easier than the top one, contrary to some other published reports.

I did conclude halfway through that it was foolish/futile to leave the two brackets holding the transimission dipstick pipe in place, so I took them both out, and was then able to actually start accomplishing something. From what I saw, there's very llittle chance of getting a starter out without removing those two brackets to get the dipstick pipe out of the way. You can try if you want to..... if I ever do this again, those are the first two bolts that will come out.(the dipstick pipe just pulls right out of its lower pipe)

Remounting was ok and I have tried it once and it started. Have to give it a road test, but the other warning lights seem to have gone out, so maybe m alternator is still good :D. Not sure I would have had the energy to rebuild the contacts after pulling the thing.
 
TLC,

There is an O-ring on the bottom of the upper dip-stick tube(90301-09173). Sometimes they can leak. It's an easy fix, just pull the tube and stick a new one on it. Monitor that joint in the next few days for seepage. If you have some, replace the O-ring.

Dan.
 
TLC (and others comtemplating this repair)

Both starter bolts and the starter can be removed from under the truck while all 4 tyres are on the ground. My truck is lifted about 3" but I'm pretty sure most guys can get under a stock truck. No need to remove the tyre or the dip stick tube. Snaking out the starter from underneath is a little tricky but it can be done with a little trial and error. Mine has been in and out about 4 times so I'm getting pretty good at it. A flex head ratchet or a u-joint socket or a wobble extension will help on the rear starter bolt. You'll need about 2' of extension for the rear bolt.

Took about an hour the first time... now it takes about 15 minutes.

Do NOT forget to remove the battery cable. Ask Junk. :eek:

-B-
 
[quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=3897;start=0#msg28587 date=1058995975]
Do NOT forget to remove the battery cable. Ask Junk. :eek:
[/quote]
:flipoff2: :D

Actually, 15 mins is a lot for me nowadays :D. Well, actually, a few weeks ago, I had to pull mine. I forgot the dealer whacked it in the last time (they had it out during dropping in the new beater engine) and they hit it with the frickin rattle gun. Took about 45 mins to get it out.

I always take off the front ds tire though. It's just easier and allows me to stick my fat head in there. :D
 

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