Starlink mini

[FrazzledHunter]

will it work without a mount, from inside car?

I dont have FB, TV, or netflix


but when i am in middle of death valley or moab, reading MUD is a must - that is my disconnect

I refuse to mount anything on my truck

I've seen pictures of and read reviews of those that have mounted them to the sunroof via suction cups. I can do that with my mount if I choose but I haven tried it.

I wouldn't mount anything permanently to my truck either. The mount I pictured is using suction cups which seem quite strong and are easy to get on and off. That's why it's placed closer to the passenger side and not centered.

An alternative is magnets or both. I will also have a mount made up of RAM* parts to go on my roof rack which will let me easily add, remove and re-point the antenna. Maybe in the rear next to the, now likely obsolete, WeBoost antenna.

*Maybe this - still thinking about it:
RAM® U-Bolt Double Ball Mount with 1/4"-20 Threaded Stud - C Size Long - https://rammount.com/products/ram-231-d-202au

 

[ryanCA]

I've seen pictures of and read reviews of those that have mounted them to the sunroof via suction cups. I can do that with my mount if I choose but I haven tried it.

I wouldn't mount anything permanently to my truck either. The mount I pictured is using suction cups which seem quite strong and are easy to get on and off. That's why it's placed closer to the passenger side and not centered.

An alternative is magnets or both. I will also have a mount made up of RAM* parts to go on my roof rack which will let me easily add, remove and re-point the antenna. Maybe in the rear next to the, now likely obsolete, WeBoost antenna.

*Maybe this - still thinking about it:
RAM® U-Bolt Double Ball Mount with 1/4"-20 Threaded Stud - C Size Long - https://rammount.com/products/ram-231-d-202au
View attachment 3888544

thank you

suction cups are perfect

I will go that route

when truck is off - how are you keeping it powered?

 

[FrazzledHunter]

thank you

suction cups are perfect

I will go that route

when truck is off - how are you keeping it powered?

It comes with an AC adapter but I'm assuming you mean you would have no shore power.
In that case...electric power is my thing so I have several ways:

1. 2nd battery under the hood - 55Ah Odyssey extreme charged by the truck (while running) via a REDARC 1225D which also has a solar panel connection
2. Goal Zero Yeti 1500X, 100Ah battery charged from the truck (while running) and also by solar panels
   1. It could power it via DC or 110VAC using its supplied power adapter, as it has an inverter
3. From the the travel trailer, also solar equipped, if we have it.

Any of the options could keep it running probably forever, assuming some sun.

EDIT: I should emphasize I have a mini. There are other larger Starlink antennas with better performance characteristics that can also used roaming. But I can't speak for them.

 

[TeCKis300]

Starlink has a $149 deal for residential service.

Is this the same hardware as mobile?

Guess there is the other roaming part of it that I hear some are able to work around by registering different addresses? Or will this be too compromised?

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Starlink has a $149 deal for residential service.

Is this the same hardware as mobile?

Guess there is the other roaming part of it that I hear some are able to work around by registering different addresses? Or will this be too compromised?

I dunno but after studying Starlink's various plans for roaming and stationary (we're considering dumping Verizon for home internet) I would say probably not.

EDIT: I didn't think of the multi address hack. No idea. But the roaming is expensive even with a mini because it's so cool LOL! And I am just the perfect kind of sucker for this kind of stuff.

 

[ryanCA]

It comes with an AC adapter but I'm assuming you mean you would have no shore power.
In that case...electric power is my thing so I have several ways:

1. 2nd battery under the hood - 55Ah Odyssey extreme charged by the truck (while running) via a REDARC 1225D which also has a solar panel connection
2. Goal Zero Yeti 1500X, 100Ah battery charged from the truck (while running) and also by solar panels
   1. It could power it via DC or 110VAC using its supplied power adapter, as it has an inverter
3. From the the travel trailer, also solar equipped, if we have it.

Any of the options could keep it running probably forever, assuming some sun.

EDIT: I should emphasize I have a mini. There are other larger Starlink antennas with better performance characteristics that can also used roaming. But I can't speak for them.

so looks like I need to buy this https://www.basspro.com/p/goal-zero...tb2aTkdDWQs-T9AHgOoaAsZnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and then during camping, use this to power the starlink?

Should the Goal Zero Yeti be charged at home and taken with you? Or is cigarette lighter in car for it enough, for 3 days of dispered camping?

 

[Sandroad]

so looks like I need to buy this https://www.basspro.com/p/goal-zero-yeti-1500x-portable-power-station?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=BPS|Shopping|PMax|Camping|General|NAud|Google|NMT&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtpLABhC7ARIsALBOCVpnJvHc-ueUAU10pEFD56i-n4CFYcdLp9Ibtb2aTkdDWQs-T9AHgOoaAsZnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and then during camping, use this to power the starlink?

Should the Goal Zero Yeti be charged at home and taken with you? Or is cigarette lighter in car for it enough, for 3 days of dispered camping?

I’m looking into buying a mini and know the power requirements. The Goal Zero power station you linked to will run the mini for 3 days of dispersed camping if that’s all you plug into it. I don’t know if you can charge the Goal Zero from a DC outlet in the LC/LX but others on here will know; might by too much power draw? Some power stations like the Bluetti can be purchased with solar panels which would mean indefinite use time for a mini.

 

[TeCKis300]

I’m looking into buying a mini and know the power requirements. The Goal Zero power station you linked to will run the mini for 3 days of dispersed camping if that’s all you plug into it. I don’t know if you can charge the Goal Zero from a DC outlet in the LC/LX but others on here will know; might by too much power draw? Some power stations like the Bluetti can be purchased with solar panels which would mean indefinite use time for a mini.

Charge needs are more a function of how much draw you intend to have.

That said, all I use is the standard Goal Zero cigarette charger at 5A and I find that sufficient for my needs. There is no factory DC outlet in the trunk area, but it's easy enough to install. LX guys will have it even easier with the 3rd row power fold 20A circuit.

The 100W 120V AC outlet there unfortunately will not work to charge the Goal Zero as the 60W charger draws something like 120W which is over the 100W rating.

 

[ryanCA]

I’m looking into buying a mini and know the power requirements. The Goal Zero power station you linked to will run the mini for 3 days of dispersed camping if that’s all you plug into it. I don’t know if you can charge the Goal Zero from a DC outlet in the LC/LX but others on here will know; might by too much power draw? Some power stations like the Bluetti can be purchased with solar panels which would mean indefinite use time for a mini.

Yeah when I am dispersed I not plugging anything else into it so if you say 3 days is good, thats good enough for me

Question wouod be am I charging the goal zero in car in cigarette lighter while driving or am i charging it at home and bringing with me?

 

[TeCKis300]

Question wouod be am I charging the goal zero in car in cigarette lighter while driving or am i charging it at home and bringing with me?

Both. Start the trip with the GZ topped off. The cig charger will help maintain reserve.

The great thing about these portable batts is the real time display showing reserve, but also how much time left at current draw levels. That helps immensely in managing and planning reserves.

Add a folding portable 100W solar panel to your kit and that will also do wonders for days at camp to keeping the battery topped off.

 

[ryanCA]

Both. Start the trip with the GZ topped off. The cig charger will help maintain reserve.

The great thing about these portable batts is the real time display showing reserve, but also how much time left at current draw levels. That helps immensely in managing and planning reserves.

Add a folding portable 100W solar panel to your kit and that will also do wonders for days at camp to keeping the battery topped off.

excellent Paul, appreciate the info

ordered

 

[FrazzledHunter]

thank you

suction cups are perfect

I will go that route

when truck is off - how are you keeping it powered?

Well, you don't have to get the Goal Zero unit like I did. There's lots of competitors now that may be better.

But to answer your question as to longevity: the power consumption according to Starlink is 25-40W. So let's go with an average of 30W to use round numbers. The Yeti Goal Zero advertises itself as a 1500Wh unit, again in round numbers. You would only want to ever run these things down to 10% so that makes 90% of 1500, or 1350Wh. 30W divided into 1350Wh is 45 hours continuous use of your Starlink.

As for the car charging, yes you can charge from your car's cigarette lighter using their charger but you might be a bit disappointed with the wait. The math is (using somewhat rounded numbers) 13V at 10A or 130W*. Restoring that same 1350Wh at that rate is 130W divided into 1350Wh or approximately 10 hours.

Hopefully this is a simple guide to doing power estimates that will apply to whatever unit you may get. These are rough numbers useful for estimates. The best numbers come from real measurements at inputs and outputs to account for losses in charging and discharging.

If you don't use the Starlink continuously you might be able to be connected for a great many days. YMMV.

Perhaps others can chime in and tell me if I'm off base.

*EDIT. Uh oh I may have over-estimated the power to be supplied by the cigarette lighter charger. According to the website the output is 10A at 12V or 120W, not 130W.


Yeti 12V Car Charging Cable - https://goalzero.com/collections/yeti-accessories/products/yeti-12v-car-charging-cable

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Yeah when I am dispersed I not plugging anything else into it so if you say 3 days is good, thats good enough for me

Question wouod be am I charging the goal zero in car in cigarette lighter while driving or am i charging it at home and bringing with me?

Charge it at home and get the inexpensive cigarette charger to keep the Starlink charging while on the road. If the starlink is drawing 30W and you're supplying 130W the you're net +100W.

Next I bet you'll be adding a Dometic refrigerator/freezer.

 

[ryanCA]

Well, you don't have to get the Goal Zero unit like I did. There's lots of competitors now that may be better.

But to answer your question as to longevity: the power consumption according to Starlink is 25-40W. So let's go with an average of 30W to use round numbers. The Yeti Goal Zero advertises itself as a 1500Wh unit, again in round numbers. You would only want to ever run these things down to 10% so that makes 90% of 1500, or 1350Wh. 30W divided into 1350Wh is 45 hours continuous use of your Starlink.

As for the car charging, yes you can charge from your car's cigarette lighter using their charger but you might be a bit disappointed with the wait. The math is (using somewhat rounded numbers) 13V at 10A or 130W*. Restoring that same 1350Wh at that rate is 130W divided into 1350Wh or approximately 10 hours.

Hopefully this is a simple guide to doing power estimates that will apply to whatever unit you may get. These are rough numbers useful for estimates. The best numbers come from real measurements at inputs and outputs to account for losses in charging and discharging.

If you don't use the Starlink continuously you might be able to be connected for a great many days. YMMV.

Perhaps others can chime in and tell me if I'm off base.

*EDIT. Uh oh I may have over-estimated the power to be supplied by the cigarette lighter charger. According to the website the output is 10A at 12V or 120W, not 130W.


Yeti 12V Car Charging Cable - https://goalzero.com/collections/yeti-accessories/products/yeti-12v-car-charging-cable

Thank you very much. Been very helpful.

Usually when I am off grid 3-4 days or 6-8 days, no signal it is fine. Running business/family, sometimes a little connectivity is helpful. I think 1-2 hours a day for me starlink is good enough.

Appreciate you doing the math, that is helpful.

 

[ryanCA]

Charge it at home and get the inexpensive cigarette charger to keep the Starlink charging while on the road. If the starlink is drawing 30W and you're supplying 130W the you're net +100W.

Next I bet you'll be adding a Dometic refrigerator/freezer.

i dont have a fridge.

I do see all you guys with fridges/bumpers/drawers..fancy pants.

I don't have any of that.

I recently did a 6 day death valley/saline valley trip with 5 other friends. People had rooftop tents, AC, fridges, its like they were bringing their home with them. To each their own

 

[Sandroad]

Well, you don't have to get the Goal Zero unit like I did. There's lots of competitors now that may be better.

But to answer your question as to longevity: the power consumption according to Starlink is 25-40W. So let's go with an average of 30W to use round numbers. The Yeti Goal Zero advertises itself as a 1500Wh unit, again in round numbers. You would only want to ever run these things down to 10% so that makes 90% of 1500, or 1350Wh. 30W divided into 1350Wh is 45 hours continuous use of your Starlink.

As for the car charging, yes you can charge from your car's cigarette lighter using their charger but you might be a bit disappointed with the wait. The math is (using somewhat rounded numbers) 13V at 10A or 130W*. Restoring that same 1350Wh at that rate is 130W divided into 1350Wh or approximately 10 hours.

Hopefully this is a simple guide to doing power estimates that will apply to whatever unit you may get. These are rough numbers useful for estimates. The best numbers come from real measurements at inputs and outputs to account for losses in charging and discharging.

If you don't use the Starlink continuously you might be able to be connected for a great many days. YMMV.

Perhaps others can chime in and tell me if I'm off base.

*EDIT. Uh oh I may have over-estimated the power to be supplied by the cigarette lighter charger. According to the website the output is 10A at 12V or 120W, not 130W.


Yeti 12V Car Charging Cable - https://goalzero.com/collections/yeti-accessories/products/yeti-12v-car-charging-cable

Interesting point about continuous use of a mini. I never leave my existing standard Starlink on overnight at my cabin and I assumed I (and everyone else) would turn a mini off at night for several reasons. Do folks leave their Starlink setups on overnight?

 

[FrazzledHunter]

i dont have a fridge.

I do see all you guys with fridges/bumpers/drawers..fancy pants.

I don't have any of that.

I recently did a 6 day death valley/saline valley trip with 5 other friends. People had rooftop tents, AC, fridges, its like they were bringing their home with them. To each their own

Well with a power station you'll be able to have light, be able to run a small fan and charge your phone among other things. But of course only if that floats your boat, so to speak.

The prices of the electric refrigeration came down. But what finally did it for us to get a fridge/freezer was ice. We grew to hate constantly making time for ice runs. Plus, opening the cooler to find everything floating in ice water AND discovering that the containers of home-made potato salad and cole slaw had leaked.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Interesting point about continuous use of a mini. I never leave my existing standard Starlink on overnight at my cabin and I assumed I (and everyone else) would turn a mini off at night for several reasons. Do folks leave their Starlink setups on overnight?

Well now you have me thinkin'
Part of the reasoning for having it is to be passively notified of appointments, problems like the security system, etc... In other words if something happens one of our phones will go off on its own. That’s how we live at home and let's us forget about the internet.

But yeah, I guess we'll leave it on as long as we're in range of it's WiFi.

It all depends on power I suppose.

 

[Artie]

Do folks leave their Starlink setups on overnight?

Over night? No.

During the day we power up to do whatever then shut it down. Our work situations are such that my wife can leave work at work and my employment is stay at home Dad so I just gotta keep the crew from causing property damage or bodily injury.

The prices of the electric refrigeration came down. But what finally did it for us to get a fridge/freezer was ice. We grew to hate constantly making time for ice runs. Plus, opening the cooler to find everything floating in ice water AND discovering that the containers of home-made potato salad and cole slaw had leaked.

I still have nightmares of camping with coolers and your description is a little triggering.

We got a fridge and after the first trip out realized that we’re never going back.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

I wanted to show what I’ve done with mounting Starlink Mini in preparation for our upcoming trip. I’ve never owned one of these things before so I couldn’t make up my mind how I might use it, so I opted for the commercial mount that appeared to give me the most options and that was a Satgear SM3 - 5-in-1. Whatever the mount, it had to be secure from movement and theft but at the same time easy to remove. The handle looked like a convenient place to place a cable or chain. Securing it from theft also means easily removing it and placing it in the truck, if desired. I also wanted a mount that provided a wind faring or deflector for wind and debris. I also wanted to get a mount in white to match, more or less, the truck’s color. I could have ordered it unfinished and powder coated it to match the Blizzard Pearl but, alas, not this time.

It can be ordered with or without suction cups and magnets for mounting. I ordered it with both. Since obstructions can be an issue with Starlink, I wanted to be able to mount it to the roof on or near the sunroof, on the roof rack and with a tripod or stand if all else fails again, due to location or obstructions. I’m not interested in a permanent roof rack mount at this time, but the mount’s design is so flexible I can change my mind.

Overall, I’m really happy with the mount; it’s sturdy and well machined.
SATGEAR SM3 - 5-in-1 Starlink Mini Roof Rack Mount - https://satgear.com/products/satgear-sm3-starlink-mini-roof-rack-mount

With the magnets and suction cups shown below this thing DOES NOT MOVE: tested at 80 MPH.

Roof mount:

I was able to mount it 2 ways:​

​

Suction cups per the original purchase. Two cups fit nicely in the front of the sunroof and 2 on the glass. The suction cups are really strong and held for 2 days without losing suction. I probably could have stopped here. But nooooo…I don’t completely trust suction cups.​

​

Four 35lb magnets with 1/4-20 threaded base purchased separately and screwed to the mount in lieu of 2 of the suction cups. This required 1 3/4 inch 1/4-20 bolts (from Home Depot) to get the proper clearance with the suction cups on the sunroof.​

​

I’m not currently using the magnets that came with it although they would work fine on a completely flat roof, hood or trunk without the suction cups or extra magnets I bought. For now, they’re doing nothing.​

Roof rack mount:

I got RAM C ball mounts (that attach to the roof rack and to the mount’s 1/4-20 thread):​

• RAM Double U-Bolt Ball Base for 1" - 1.25" Rails - C Size Part#: RAM-235U
• RAM Double Socket Arm - C Size Long Part#: RAM-201U-D
• RAM Ball Adapter with Round Plate and 1/4"-20 Threaded Stud - C Size Part#: RAM-202AU

​

Tripod mount:

I usually take a lightweight camera tripod wherever we go so as most tripods come with a 1/4-20 bolt it was easy to attach it directly to the mount's threaded attachment point (same one used with the RAM C ball mount above) without mods:​

​

I’ll power it using DC with the cigarette lighter cable that came with the mount or the 120 AC plug that came with the Starlink antenna. Here it is with the 120V adapter plugged into my Goal Zero Yeti 1500X and showing the approximate 40W power draw: