Square driveshaft's (1 Viewer)

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my square shaft clunks and vibrates when it's not under load. Not really an issue except driving between trails. If I got out and unlocked the hubs it wouldn't bother me at all.

My nose cone spit out a couple of times now. It seems to be a problem with the rear shaft bottoming out and pushing the output shaft forward though. I cured that problem and haven't had an issue since.


I like my four-spline long travel shaft, but I'm beginning to run into u-joint angle issues even with a limiting strap, so I might have to go ahead and send Jesse some business. The next project for the pig is to raise the drivetrain up to flat bottom it. I'm sure the driveshaft angles will get worse from there.
 
bustanutley said:
I just retired my front square shaft, I won't miss it, but it was strong. If you are linking your truck why do you need a lot of slip? you should be able to get away with stock parts and have nice shafts that will spin as fast as you want.
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I don't need alot of slip. but when the local drivetrain store wants 550 beer tickets to modify my old shaft I am conidering other options.

Because I am lowering and moving my engine backwards, and I plan on buying a Klune-V underdrive (IF THE FREIKING OWNER EVER EMAILS ME BACK) my driveshafts will be modified dramatically in length.
 
Isotel said:
im running one in the front, and it works fine.. ;)

Once i can come up with a few Hundred dollars i will pull it and get a real one.. The Clanking and vibrations get old after a day on the trail.

don't over think it with ways to keep it sealed and balanced, If you want a cheep solution, this is it, but just grab 2 pieces of Tube (i think i used Trailer hitch stuff), weld them on as best as you can, and call it good :D
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o.k. KISS.
got you.:)
 
Shipwreck said:
Yep.

I hope to be able to get rid of my square shaft this year. One of the problems with a square shaft is that it does not spin smoothly if laid on a rock. I did this by climbing a ledge at Fordyce trail. The front shaft was just barely touching a rock ledge, but when I tried to move the truck the corners of the square shaft hit the rock as it spun and cracked the nose cone of the t-case.

This would not have happened if I had a regular shaft.

103-0323_img.jpg
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that is super nasty. I am going to be running a toyota L/C 4-speed. I hope I don't have these dramas. Although I have heard of people snapping the output shaft.:frown:
 
Gumby said:
my square shaft clunks and vibrates when it's not under load. Not really an issue except driving between trails. If I got out and unlocked the hubs it wouldn't bother me at all.

My nose cone spit out a couple of times now. It seems to be a problem with the rear shaft bottoming out and pushing the output shaft forward though. I cured that problem and haven't had an issue since.


I like my four-spline long travel shaft, but I'm beginning to run into u-joint angle issues even with a limiting strap, so I might have to go ahead and send Jesse some business. The next project for the pig is to raise the drivetrain up to flat bottom it. I'm sure the driveshaft angles will get worse from there.
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Have you considered using tom woods uni's?
 
Tom woods unis are only good for a 1310, 1350 and I believe 1410 units..

No toy stuff..
 
OpTimuS said:
I don't need alot of slip. but when the local drivetrain store wants 550 beer tickets to modify my old shaft I am conidering other options.

Because I am lowering and moving my engine backwards, and I plan on buying a Klune-V underdrive (IF THE FREIKING OWNER EVER EMAILS ME BACK) my driveshafts will be modified dramatically in length.
Click to expand...

Why don’t you just build your own? You are a machinist correct? 2.5” sch 40 is a damn near perfect fit for yota flanges. I just made one last week, 8ft length of pipe cost me all of $30.
 
OpTimuS said:
I don't need alot of slip.
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If its less that 4" or so (With Link Type Suspensions it should be!)

I agree with Nutly, just build your own out of Sch 40, the Square ones are only for people with Shackle Reversed SOA Rigs that require 5+" of travel..
 
i made a square slip in a round shaft using an adapter from ts and it works great will spin on rock and is farely balanced and can double in length strong and no noticeable vibration, adapter is about $50 had about $40 in tube and $10 balence job at local drive shaft joint. runs great i use a tom woods custom cv high ange in the front, had to change pinion flange thow. but my round with sqaure slip rear runs great maybe an option
 
dacicci said:
i made a square slip in a round shaft using an adapter from ts and it works great will spin on rock and is farely balanced and can double in length strong and no noticeable vibration, adapter is about $50 had about $40 in tube and $10 balence job at local drive shaft joint. runs great i use a tom woods custom cv high ange in the front, had to change pinion flange thow. but my round with sqaure slip rear runs great maybe an option
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Have any pics you could share?
 
Mace said:
Tom woods unis are only good for a 1310, 1350 and I believe 1410 units..

No toy stuff..
Click to expand...


thats bad news...... maybe will have to go with the TG uni's......
 
bustanutley said:
Why don’t you just build your own? You are a machinist correct? 2.5” sch 40 is a damn near perfect fit for yota flanges. I just made one last week, 8ft length of pipe cost me all of $30.
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Maybe even a thicker wall section so that I cn machine down 2 lips, one on either end of the spacer.......

That is a bloody beaut idea. :)
Standard double cardon's front and rear, with standard slider spline inners and custom length outers. :)
 
Custom length outers? You mean the tube of the shaft itself?
 
Mace said:
Custom length outers? You mean the tube of the shaft itself?
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Yeah Mace.

essentially I mean that (on the rear for example) I would have the standard double cardon joint bolted to the outputs shaft, the have the standard (early) L/C slip-joint inner. For the outer slip shaft I will shorten it. To shorten it (by say 4") cut a 6" length out of the shaft then machine a 1" shoulder inside of the shaft on both halves (and a 45deg chamfer on the outer edge/lip, and slide in a sleeve (2 1/8" long, 1" of sleeve in each half, with a 1/8" between the shaft to aid in weld penetration) into both halves of the shaft (interference fit), and weld the shaft together and to the sleeve. :) Does that explain more?

Does it make sense?
 
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