Springbar Tents (2 Viewers)

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Although I can't imagine why anyone would want to pull on a tent to remove the stakes from the ground.

Ever tried pulling tent stakes out of frozen ground, it is not an easy task. Also when you are setting a big canvas tent up to withstand major winds than it is wise to run the stakes as far into the ground as you can. This will leave you with very little stake to get a hold of. It is actually very common that the only way I can get a good enough grip or leverage on a stake to remove it is by grabbing the bottom part of the tent and using it to remove the stake.

Also the rope makes the tent stronger for withstanding wind.


On the subject of tent stakes I am going to recommend these stakes. These are what I use in loose soil conditions like sand.

Lot Of 12 New US Genuine Military Surplus Camping Tent Stakes WITH Stake bag !!! | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/393148763777

I also like these because they are nice and long so a lot of times I can leave enough stake exposed that I can use a pry bar, axe, or big screwdriver to get under the ear on the stake and pry it out of the ground nice and easy.

The biggest problem with MrBuddy heaters is that they introduce a ton of water into the air, which will form as condensation.

Not a problem in a canvas tent, canvas naturally breathes. Plus it is easy to leave a window and the door cracked for extra ventilation.

I have never had condensation build up in a canvas tent or double walled synthetic tent. But when using cheap single walled synthetic tents it has been an issue with or without a heater.

Also propane combustion is C3H8 + O2 = heat, CO2 & H20

So yes you are definitely correct. Burning propane will release H2O into the atmosphere. I am curious how other heaters avoid this byproduct of propane combustion.
 
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Ever tried pulling tent stakes out of frozen ground, it is not an easy task. Also when you are setting a big canvas tent up to withstand major winds than it is wise to run the stakes as far into the ground as you can. This will leave you with very little stake to get a hold of. It is actually very common that the only way I can get a good enough grip or leverage on a stake to remove it is by grabbing the bottom part of the tent and using it to remove the stake.

Also the rope makes the tent stronger for withstanding wind.

I can see the scenario you're describing, but honestly, I would still look for other ways of pulling pegs before I resorted to pulling on the tent itself, no matter how strong the tent is. You could leave a loop of rope around each peg before hammering it in, you could pry each peg with a large flathead screwdriver, you could use hex stakes and an impact gun, etc. Lots of options out there.

No argument to the strength improvement from that rope design; that's a good thing for sure.

Another great feature I recently discovered in (some?) Springbar tents that's lacking in the copies (like the Kodiak I ordered) is being able to zip-in a different panel for the triangular window. Springbar makes zip-in replacements with jacks for stoves and fire-retardant material; this lets you zip-in a stove-ready panel without having to modify the tent itself. Great feature IMO.

Not a problem in a canvas tent, canvas naturally breathes. Plus it is easy to leave a window and the door cracked for extra ventilation.

I previously owned two OZ Tent RV4 tents. They are made from an 8oz polycotton canvas, which is not quite the same as the duck canvas on Springbar and Kodiak tents, but pretty similar. Without a fly, in temperatures of just 5C, I woke up to rain (from condensation) dripping on my face. The interior walls of the tent were also wet to the touch. I've seen similar things happening with friends that used Mr.Buddy heaters in their various setups.

I'm sure that with enough breathability + ventilation it's possible to avoid the issue, but I'd rather not have that problem/risk to begin with. There will be times when a lot of heat is desired, but conditions don't allow for large openings in the windows. Probably somewhat rare, but no less rare than hard-to-remove stakes in frozen ground :).

I am curious how other heaters avoid this byproduct of propane combustion.

As I understand it, the combustion chamber is completely sealed, so Propex-type heaters direct all combustion byproducts outside. The NuWay stoves have a similar vent via the chimney.
 
Another great feature I recently discovered in (some?) Springbar tents that's lacking in the copies (like the Kodiak I ordered) is being able to zip-in a different panel for the triangular window. Springbar makes zip-in replacements with jacks for stoves and fire-retardant material;

Yep, this is how our leisure port in designed. We can zip in extra rooms, storage vestibules, or doors. This is the tent that we use for our wood burning stove. In the pictures I posted the blue part of the tent is a storage vestibule.

More pictures

20181203_183724.jpg


This was a camping trip for a bison hunt on the Henry mountains in January. Without the wood burning stove our 5 gallon water jugs would freeze solid overnight.
 
I found this while trying to decide on heaters. There is a reply from the poster of the video from a question about condensation that asserts condensation isn't a problem.
"Ive never had any issues with condensation.. It actually helps dry it out after it snows or rains."
REF:
Springbar tent in the snow with a buddy heater. Canvas makes a difference

But I love the idea of that Planar heater. It figures it costs an arm and a leg.
 
I like their Leisure Ports, I do not own one. I use 14" lag bolts for the stakes, I imagine the impact would pull them out of frozen ground. We do not have to much of that down here
 
FWIW I ended up with a Gazelle T4 Overland.

I do love the Springbars and if I was throwing budget to the wind I would definitely have purchased a Traveler. Just couldn't justify $1,250 CAD plus UPS shipping and duties for what is essentially a stopgap for a couple years until we get a small camper.
 
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This was a camping trip for a bison hunt on the Henry mountains in January
Off topic, but how long did it take to get a tag? And how did you do? We have driven around looking for the herd in the Fall, but did not see any.
Hijack over.
 
Off topic, but how long did it take to get a tag? And how did you do? We have driven around looking for the herd in the Fall, but did not see any.
Hijack over.
I think my dad had 24 points when he drew. We saw plenty of bison and he was able to get a shot at a bison one morning but he missed.

It turned out his scope rings had loosened up and his rifle was hitting about a foot high. All we can think is the extreme cold caused his scope rings to loosen up.

The hard thing about these OIL hunts is the fact that you usually don't draw them until your too old to really hunt them hard. My dad was 70 on this hunt and he was pretty limited on what he could do.

20181202_151250.jpg
 
Set up our new Traveller today in the garage. We took our time opening it up from the factory packing documenting as we went. It was ultimately really easy to set up and take down.

BTW, there's another Springbar tents thread called "springbar tents".
Perhaps it should be merged with this one.
REF:
springbar tents - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/springbar-tents.848619/
 
The only thing to be aware of with the Mr. Buddy is the fact that they won't run above 8'000ish feet. I think the sensor that prevents them from killing you won't let them run at higher elevations.

But personally when I am camping in cold weather where I need the heater I try to avoid those kinds of elevations.
I've been using the old Coleman Catalytic heaters that run on Coleman fuel in my Springbar, without issue.
I figure whatever emissions that do come with it can't do any more brain damage than an evening watching CNN
 

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