spring pack treatment.

[bad_religion_au]

got my 55 series springs out finally, what should i do before installing them on my 40 (pull em apart? paint? with what?)

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Slip Plate is a favorite here in the States. It's a graphite paint commonly used to lube farming and construction equipment. Works to reduce interleaf friction. You could also use strips of plastic (UHMW I believe) between the leaves to achieve the same result with slightly less mess.

HTH,
Nick Jennings

 

[72cruiser]

sup bud,

i just pulled apart some 55 springs over christmas break. i just cut the center pin, wire wheeled em, primed em, and painted em with rustoleum hardhat industrial gloss black. worked ok. haven't put em on yet or anything, but the paint has already been scraped a good bit, so i would say that i'm not that impressed with it... (just ridin in the back of my truck...)

there are anti-friction pads made out of teflon (i don't have a link or anything) but am gettin information on them. this is much 'cleaner' than the slip plate, which is just kinda like graphite slop on the springs....

not sure where to get the new center pins from....any ideas (dealer?)


malphrus

 

[Greg_B]

Slip Plate. Wire wheel, clean, and apply a thin coat to both sides, let cure. Apply a second very thick coat to the top of each leaf (cept the very top one of course), let cure, then put together.

gb

 

[fj40_rico]

wire wheel them really good. prime and paint and put them back together. I did all 4 in one afternoon. people kept asking if they were new springs .

- Rico.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

not sure where to get the new center pins from....any ideas (dealer?)

NAPA or the local spring shop should have new center pins. Or most of the Cruiser vendors...but a spring shop would be cheapest...

HTH,
Nick Jennings

 

[FLYINGLOW]

I put dry graphite on mine. Not sure if it made a difference though.
For a centering pin, the 45 spring leaves I used were already 3/8" so I used some grade 8 bolts with the allen key head. The 40 leaves that made up the rest of the pack were smaller than 3/8" so I drilled em. Had to sharpen the drill bit 1 or 2 times per hole, but I got er done.

 

[bad_religion_au]

i busted a spring clamp pulling them apart, and was quoted 175 dollars for a new clamp (yes that's australian funny money) so i was wondering, would it be harmful to use a bit of box section, with the top cut off (so in a U shape) with a bolt through the top, instead of the clamp (was going to open up the clamps for travel anyway.)

 

[FLYINGLOW]

i busted a spring clamp pulling them apart, and was quoted 175 dollars for a new clamp (yes that's australian funny money) so i was wondering, would it be harmful to use a bit of box section, with the top cut off (so in a U shape) with a bolt through the top, instead of the clamp (was going to open up the clamps for travel anyway.)

I don't see the diffenence, how many clamps do you have on there in total? That would be a good way to make your own. How will you attach it though? As long as you have one in front of the axle and one behind, I think you'll be OK as long as they are in a position to hold all the leaves alligned. You will increase the risk of breaking a spring or pinion from axle wrap though. Those clamps help prevent it. I like the ones that have a bolt through the top, they allow the pack to spread a little, but not too much. And you can take the bolt out if you want. A couple on my 45 springs had been welded on by a previous owner. Needless to say, I chucked that leaf.

 

[bad_religion_au]

my idea is, grind the head off the rivet holding it on, leaving the shank of the spring, this will leave it with the regular strength of the original mounting.

tap the shank of the rivet that is left on the spring, use a small bolt and washer to hold the U in place, as there are no downward loads, i.e. the bolt will only stop gravity from making the U fall off, nothing else puts force on it in this downward direction, it should be strong enough

 

[FLYINGLOW]

i.e. the bolt will only stop gravity from making the U fall off, nothing else puts force on it in this downward direction, it should be strong enough

Ya, gravity and rocks. It may come off if you drag your spring over a rock. Other than that it should work. Those rivets are countersunk on the top side, you may be able to find a countersunk bolt that will work.

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

I'll see about hammering the rivets in mine out and seeing what kind of countersunk bolt will work. I'll need to fabricate new clamps, so I'm not worried about saving the original stuff. I figured one on either side shall do. I'm not planning on having the original springs on w/ my add-a-leafs on for more than 3 years, just buying time until after I've moved to Indiana and bought a pole barn with a house. I'm just going to use standard lithium grease from CarQuest in between the leaves after I paint them. Nothing special, just functional.

Brian

 

[kvanoort]

Coolerman did a spring pack rebuild and documented the process on his Website. Here's a link: Spring Pack Restore

 

[Sputnik40]

Definitely use slip plate or a similar graphite paint - whether you repaint or no.

I'm not a fan of opening up the spring retaining clamps anymore - I had sick flex SOA but it is just too much for the main leaves.

Getting ready to put another set on this month - that coolerman link was nice, I usually do the exact same sans the de-rust - gotta get me one of those made up.