Spool VS Lock Right/Aussie

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not sure where the info came up,:hhmm: it was when the aussie first started being sold in Canada that this "information" came to light.
i had no reason to disbelive it at the time.:meh:
but
upon doing a search i found this::idea:

Thank you for your interest in the Aussie Locker.;

There are significant differences between the Aussie Locker and the Lock
Right. First the Aussie Locker is manufactured in our factory in Australia
and we have no association with Richmond Gear who manufactures the Lock
Right somewhere in the USA the last we heard.

A very significant difference in the V6 Toyota offered by Lock Right is that
their model only consists of a cam gear set (our terminology) forcing you to
use the OE axle gears that are in your diff at this time. The Aussie Locker
is a full cam and axle gear set. The steel used is different, the cam
design is different, the pin and spring slot is patent pending and
different, the heat treat process is different, the angle on the teeth are
different, etc.

Additionally, the Aussie Locker does not have limitations on the warranty
for large tire size and/or high horsepower.

so, i sit corrected...:whoops:

:beer:
 
Thanks you had me worried there for a second. :) I've only ran the 8" 4 cyl mini truck aussies but they are way the heck smoother than the lock rites I've used... Out of the box they do look nearly identical to the naked eye.
 
I am glad you asked otherwise i would be still misinformed.

they do look a lot alike.

i have run the lockrite on a couple cruisers and an aussie in the last one. the aussie did seem quieter and smoother, i thought i had to do with the upgraded pin springs ... duh.
 
I have decided to go with a rear aussie locker for now. I would like to add an elocker in the front down the road and I like the point about transfer case gears instead of regearing the axles.
 
Even if you make a lunchbox locker out of better steel they are still a bad design.


A very significant difference in the V6 Toyota offered by Lock Right is that
their model only consists of a cam gear set (our terminology) forcing you to
use the OE axle gears that are in your diff at this time. The Aussie Locker
is a full cam and axle gear set.
Click to expand...

I find this amusing. I have noticed that the aussies I have installed in v6 diffs do replace all the guts while a richmond based one only replaced the center parts and reuses the side gears.

I did not like that at all about the aussies.

After installing and running TONS of lunchbox lockers I found the only one that works well and last is the v6 locrites.

They actually work very well and do not POP, BANG ETC.

I figured it had something to do with the toyota side gears being angled and not flat/square like all the insert lockers.

I had one laying around so I put it in the rear of my buggy just to see if I can destroy it. I have ALWAYS ran a spool or welded diff (stopped running welded cuz the pins and carriers still break) in the rear.

I have been trying to destroy the v6 quicklok for 2 years now and everytime I have the rig on the lift I always spin a tire and pull the other tire and it instantly changes the other tires direction just like testing a detroit. No noise just locking and unlocking smoothly.

You cant do that with an aussie/locrite/richmond/lunchbox 4 cyl locker they have to have the tire jerked back and forth to get it to unlock with noise and violence and no predictable results.

I was really dissapointed to install the aussie v6 lockers just to find out they made them just like the 4cly ones that suck.

I have nothing bad to say at all about the cheap ($200-250) richmond made V6 lunchbox lockers.

I run 38x16 wide swamper bias tires and beat the shiit out of my rig at least once a month. I dont just wheel three times a year and drive like a girl. Trees hate me. I can kill parts on command if they suck. Just saying.
 
jsfgso said:
I have decided to go with a rear aussie locker for now. I would like to add an elocker in the front down the road and I like the point about transfer case gears instead of regearing the axles.
Click to expand...

Tcase gears suck when used alone. If they are one case of a dual case setup then they are OK.

I get guys all the time tell me they dont want to do dual cases and they can save a buck and just 4.7 their single case and be fine.

Not for me.

Stock toyota HiRange is WORTHLESS. Gut turd all the way.
Stock toyota LoRange is perfect for snow, mud, sand, trails etc.

4.7 suck in the snow, mud, trails, sand etc, but work well in the rocks and tough stuff.

With 4.7s in a single case you no longer have the option of your stock LoRange. Now you either go really slow or go really slow.

Dual cases give you low gears and stock gears all with options and a longer front shaft (which all toyotas can benefit from)

Dont be a trial slug stuck in super low on the easy stuff cuz its the only option you have.
 
I have no experience with the V6 lockrite or aussie, only the 4cyl, but I have a buddy that raves about the V6 lockrite and says they are basically in league with a full detroit when your done.

:beer:

As far as driving like a girl: It's funny you said that. My buddy that had a spartan locker and broke it was a girl... and I think it broke on about the third wheeling trip! If that says anything about the spartan. Hahaha
 
crushers said:
square tubing ... how come?
Click to expand...

It cost me ~25$, which is $225 cheaper than a shop quoted me for one with half the travel and unbalanced...

But its really because i'm a poor college student who did his truck on a budget- Kinda the same reason I run Aussie's f/r and military surplus tires...

Its not because I 'want' to do it... Its because if i want to enjoy my vehicle to my capabilites, i had to upgrade on a $7.50/hr part time budget...

Chopshop- We understand they, in your opinion, are a bad design...
You've said it alot. We get the point.

I have had NO issue with mine... With over 20k miles on them on and off pavement. I have wheeled the s*** out of them- mud, rock, trees, s***, lumber, grass, roots, snow, air.

If i had the oppurtunity to run a selectable, i would. in a heartbeat. but i bought 2 aussie's for less than one ARB and have had NO problem. if/when the grenade on me, I'll be sure to remember that they are a bad design.

Now, i will agree that the lockrite for the 14bolt GM are horrible. lockrite sent us 3, all of which did the same thing. stayed locked. We even paid someone else to do the same install we've done on numerous vehicles.

OP- I did tcase gears in a single case. Love them. You can put it in first and crawl or slam her in 3rd and move.
 
curious because a round tube costs about the same, not being judgemental at all. each to their own. when i got into Land Cruisers 30 years ago i was working a $8/hr job, 2 kids and a mortgage. i know what it is like to be on a budget and needing to get things done on the ... inexpensive.

i also know what the rate for a new driveshaft can run ... not cheap.

no offense was intended.
 
Sorry if my tone was off... Rough day. Having to DD my mini while the front diff on my tacoma gets rebuilt. DD'ing semi unbalanced 37's 30-70 miles a day, school work, and job makes me a little pissy.
 
cruiser88 said:
I use antifreeze in my tires
Click to expand...

I had them balanced, then ended up putting dyna tractorbeads in them and it got bearable... I put them up to 45 psi and they behave much better on the road, but ride like hell. I liked how 30 felt on the bumps, but not on the road... I would love to DD this if the tires were balanced! I have fallen back in love with the 22R.
 
I'm running 8 ounces of airsof beads in each of my 35's
 
hummm, must be nasty tires you are running.
i run 36" tractor tires at 50 mph and one finger steering.
i run 35" streets and it is one finger steering at 80 mph.

what exactly are you guys doing?
curious, how many of you get the bare rims tested for balance before installing the tires on them? i have come across MANY of brand new rims (factory and aftermarket) that are unbalanced. that makes a HUGE difference when running large rubber.
also, if a tire takes too much weight to balance i reject the tire and insist the tire supplier use a different tire.

of course i have also had some mean muds that can't be balanced at all. in that case i don't use them on a DD.

just a suggestion is all.
 
I'm running double beadlock rims with military 37 goodyears. They arent knarly, they wear like iron, and they are cheap to buy. When I DD'd the truck before i bought my taco, i had them pretty damn near perfect. Atleast perfect enough for one finger steering at ~75 mph.

Now that I've ran them with 2psi, used the rims as chainsaws, spun them until that pungent odor filled my nostrils, and done every other thing that i would do to a tire... they arent so perfect!
 
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