split case shifting woes (1 Viewer)

[stumpy]

just wrapped up a resto on a 40 with a 60 series drivetrain in it (2F-H55F-60 split case) and was driving it around and noticed i could not get the t-case out of low.

shifter moves through all 4 positions (2/4xH/L) and can feel it hit the detents, but clearly not coming out of low gear. cracked the case open to see what the deal was, cant find anything obvious. discussions with other cruiserheads suggest there should be a roll pin of some sort that fastens the H/L shifting actuator to the rod on which the shifting fork rides. when case was split open, i did not see a roll pin, nor did i see a hole for one.

with local guru(s) out of town on the expeditions 7 trip (bastards), i am looking for other snazzy ideas. i have a 62 series FSM to look at, but since it is vacuum shift, part of the diagram i would need isnt covered. i also did not see an obvious provision for a roll pin...

as a possibly relevant side note, it was difficult to shift from high to low and vice versa when the back of the case was off shifting the fork by hand...

any ideas?

TIA

 

[alaska60]

Look for a 19mm bolt on top of the case.... it just screws into the case. under it, is a spring and a ball. there are two of these on your case.
im up in park city where I have a shop. if you cant figure it out..let me know.

 

[2mbb]

Maybe this diagram will help.

Have you modified the shift gates or use twin stick to effectively get the "2-low" mod? I'm not sure this matters, but I'm just trying to understand your explanation.

The vacuum shift is only for 4wd/2wd. The H-N-L shifter is manual regardless whether it's an FJ60 or FJ62, I think.

 

[alaska60]

there we go....
and you are correct 2mbb.
the 60 and 62 case shifts the same way for low and high. however the 62 case has a long straight rod from the joystick to the hi low outer leverto acuate it, cuz the auto tranny is so long it has to reach so far back to the case.

 

[stumpy]

have the bolt with spring and ball, removed that just fine with a magnet. i had to remove that to get the back of the case off.

i was looking for a pin that would secure the high and low inner lever to the high and low shift fork shaft. looks like there isnt supposed to be one.... boooo. thanks for posting the diagram mbb, the 62 diagram was not apparent...

any ideas about the clutch between high and low? i am wondering if something isnt engaging on the clutch pack. but i guess the shifter wouldnt go between high and low positions if the fork wasnt moving, right?
and yes, shift gate removed to get 2L. doesnt affect internals at all.

i am guessing local cruiserheads were thinking the fork wasnt attached to the shaft seeing as thats the only place for a roll pin on that shaft.

 

[2mbb]

A common problem is that the high & low inner lever does not engage the high & low shift fork shaft. The inner lever sits inside a square cut out on the downward facing side of the shaft. The inner lever is held up tight against the shaft by the outer lever. If the inner lever is not pulled up high enough, or was never aligned in the cut out, then the inner lever won't move the shift shaft.

You can try loosening the outer lever and see if you can pull up and/or rotate the inner lever. Be careful not to drop the inner lever inside the case, or you will have to split the case open again.

Good luck

 

[stumpy]

i was thinking that might be the case. i thought it seemed a bit precarious to have the shift lever just 'floating' against a notch in the shaft. sounds like i should put it back together and see what i get. thanks for the help, i will return with more Qs if it dont work by monday!

 

[stumpy]

solved!

so after disassembling the t-case and inspecting everything i could find, i found nothing unusual and decided to reassemble the case in hopes that i would find something.

turns out that during the original rebuild, the red-circled washer was missing which allowed the high-low inner lever to drop into the case just enough as to not engage the high-low shift fork shaft. because i didnt have the FSM with me when i started taking it apart, i did not recognize the circled washer was missing. had i known this, i could have avoided many nights of blank stares underneath the 40. after much acrobatics in reassembly, a substitute washer was installed and the machine now shifts like a champion. at least i now know i can crack into a t-case and get out alive...

thanks for the help!

 

[boltonski]

Man, it's like you need EVERY part...