Spill control valve - KZJ78 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Lenny33
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- Thread starter
- #2
Wow - sorry for the poor display of tech savvy there, in attaching so many pics!
So am I correct in saying that the rusted cap covers what I need to adjust (last pic with cap off) in order to adjust my spill control valve?
I just need to unscrew a turn and experiment with how much smoke I am getting and how much power I might lose?
(Failed emission test for reference)
Thanks in advance
So am I correct in saying that the rusted cap covers what I need to adjust (last pic with cap off) in order to adjust my spill control valve?
I just need to unscrew a turn and experiment with how much smoke I am getting and how much power I might lose?
(Failed emission test for reference)
Thanks in advance
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Got your PM, but will reply here. Yes, pry the cap off carefully and you'll find your spill control valve adjustment there. A turn is WAY too much. You'll want to only go 1/8th turn out or so. Take a picture of the screw before doing anything!
Before you mess with this, lets have some discussion though. What part of the emissions test is your KZJ78 failing? Is it at idle, or under load? The spill control valve effects smoke under load primarily. The resistors on the side of the pump have more effect on idle. They can also be changed to impact idle smoke.
The other things that changes idle smoke, is the throttle butterfly. Many of us with the 2LTE have removed it. It's primary purpose is to create vacuum at idle to allow EGR fumes to get sucked into the intake. Removing this valve gives the motor more air at idle and gives a cleaner idle.
Before you mess with this, lets have some discussion though. What part of the emissions test is your KZJ78 failing? Is it at idle, or under load? The spill control valve effects smoke under load primarily. The resistors on the side of the pump have more effect on idle. They can also be changed to impact idle smoke.
The other things that changes idle smoke, is the throttle butterfly. Many of us with the 2LTE have removed it. It's primary purpose is to create vacuum at idle to allow EGR fumes to get sucked into the intake. Removing this valve gives the motor more air at idle and gives a cleaner idle.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks for the response - it is really nice to be able to tap into this board’s knowledge!
The vehicle is fine at idle. It is failing in lug down tests. Opacity at speeds tested are as follows:
40mph - 50%
50mph - 36%
60mph - 38%
(Maximum opacity for this test is 30%)
I have already removed the cap and marked the top of the screw for reference. I was waiting for an answer and reading a little more before I did any adjustments.
If you passed idle, the spill control will probably help you out with your load tests. As @GTSSportCoupe said though, small movements. The adjustment range on these is extremely small. I have moved mine as little as 1/16th turn during tuning and even seat of the pants dyno, you can tell the difference.
As far as info on really understanding the pump and fuel system I definitely defer to Nick. He has far more experience then all of us dialing these engines in. I have a good background tweaking on mechanical diesels, but with the ECU controlled pump, I still go to Nick for the finer points of it.
Also, how much have you driven the truck since you got it? These trucks often need a good cleaning out after they get to the states. It needs to get good and hot for a while to blow the built up carbon and gunk out from a lot of slow driving before they got here. I am a fan of Amsoil fuel conditioners. Well, really I run Amsoil for most of my fluids. But, I have had outstanding luck with the Amsoil diesel fuel conditioners to clean up injectors and smooth pumps out. My LJ78 actually was a pretty rough running when I got it. I run that fuel cleaner every tank and it runs smooth now. I have had the same results in my Land Rover , and Powerstroke diesels.
As far as info on really understanding the pump and fuel system I definitely defer to Nick. He has far more experience then all of us dialing these engines in. I have a good background tweaking on mechanical diesels, but with the ECU controlled pump, I still go to Nick for the finer points of it.
Also, how much have you driven the truck since you got it? These trucks often need a good cleaning out after they get to the states. It needs to get good and hot for a while to blow the built up carbon and gunk out from a lot of slow driving before they got here. I am a fan of Amsoil fuel conditioners. Well, really I run Amsoil for most of my fluids. But, I have had outstanding luck with the Amsoil diesel fuel conditioners to clean up injectors and smooth pumps out. My LJ78 actually was a pretty rough running when I got it. I run that fuel cleaner every tank and it runs smooth now. I have had the same results in my Land Rover , and Powerstroke diesels.
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
You should have a read of this document if you can find the time: V 3 P5ZGR01.pdf
I actually have a newer version on my computer at work. It describes exactly how the 2LTE/1KZTE/3CTE etc. engines of that time work.
I also have a 1KZTE injection pump document that describes how they use the spill valve and resistors to fine tune the pump performance. I'll post it to this thread on Monday when I got back to work. It also gives a default start point measurement for the spill control valve screw.
In general, I think reducing the fuel a bit with that screw will probably get you through your test. You can turn it back to where it was once you've passed the test. And once you intercool and do some other mods, you can use that screw to make some serious power.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks guys - you really have no idea how much I appreciate your help and patience with a guy learning g a new truck!
I will definitely give the doc a read - I am fascinated with learning everything on this rig!
I will definitely give the doc a read - I am fascinated with learning everything on this rig!
- Thread starter
- #9
So I gave it a 1/8 counterclockwise turn with no apparent difference, then 1/4, then 1/2 - all with no apparent difference. This was all done loading the engine in a stationary position while braking.
I am at work on a 48 hour shift so I can actually drive the vehicle right now. I’ll drive it tomorrow morning and see how it acts
I am at work on a 48 hour shift so I can actually drive the vehicle right now. I’ll drive it tomorrow morning and see how it acts
- Thread starter
- #10
Fault code 32 is coming up. Ideas?
Best guess is you are starving it for fuel and if the EGR system is still hooked up, it is registering a lack of airflow. So, throwing an EGR fault code out. 1/2 turn is a HUGE movement in the amount of fuel your spill valve is flowing.
You honestly are going to get no discernible feedback not actually driving the truck. And, you are needlessly stressing the torque converter,clutch packs and brakes.
You honestly are going to get no discernible feedback not actually driving the truck. And, you are needlessly stressing the torque converter,clutch packs and brakes.
- Thread starter
- #12
I’m not sure if I am understanding you correctly - are you suggesting that my SCV adjustment is what created the 32 fault code?
The 32 fault code showed up prior to my adjustments.
(I’ll turn it back a 1/4 turn before driving tomorrow)
- Thread starter
- #13
And yes, my EGR is still hooked up - on my list to remove
I assumed it happened afterwards since you posted it after you described the adjustments you made. I had the chain of events wrong in my head.
So, it looks like fault 32 is correction resistors. My guess it would be related to the fuel control resistors. I have no doubt Nick will weigh in on that with more info than I have off the top of my head.
So, it looks like fault 32 is correction resistors. My guess it would be related to the fuel control resistors. I have no doubt Nick will weigh in on that with more info than I have off the top of my head.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
In my experience, the spill valve changes only show up when driving. Turning out that much should make quite a noticeable reduction in power.
Regarding that code, I'd just clear it and see if it comes back or not. If it comes back, you can start measuring at the resistors and at the ECU plug to make sure the resistor value is getting to the ECU ok. It's a fairly easy thing to check. Fortunately for you, the 1KZTE manual is available in English. Also, I believe the wiring manual for the whole KZJ78 is also available (in Japanese).
Regarding that code, I'd just clear it and see if it comes back or not. If it comes back, you can start measuring at the resistors and at the ECU plug to make sure the resistor value is getting to the ECU ok. It's a fairly easy thing to check. Fortunately for you, the 1KZTE manual is available in English. Also, I believe the wiring manual for the whole KZJ78 is also available (in Japanese).
- Thread starter
- #16
Yeah, no worries - thanks for weighing in. I was reading up on the code in the service manual, but it still didn’t make a lot of sense to me. I think I need to go to bed!
- Thread starter
- #17
As luck would have it, Beno just got me a service manual today!
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Here is the 1kzte manual. I believe you just insert a jumper in the diagnostic connector (t1 to e1 I believe?) and readout LED flashes from the check engine light. That's how all the other old Toyotas of that vintage work anyhow. Double check the manual first though. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=2ahUKEwiBwJPIlrTgAhXuGDQIHTfEAaUQFjADegQICRAC&url=http://etoymag.free.fr/manuels2/1KZ-TE.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3rqGP3n-39tcBjA8SwY3E_
