Speedo Gear Problem

[Stickboy]

So I finally got the gear I needed for my t-case. I had a 4.11 gear in but need the 3.73 if I want an accurate reading. I ordered the 16 tooth gear from SOR to replace the 18 that was in there. Installed it and took for a drive and no movement of the needle. Hmmmm.....

After careful inspection the outside diameter of the 18 tooth gear is .825" (marked 6x18 on shaft) and the outside diameter of the 16 tooth gear is .728" (marked 6x16 on shaft).

The teeth aren't even engaging the output shaft on the t-case.

What do I do now? Do they make a 6x16 gear that is .825 OD?

-mike

 

[saint60]

i don't know the answer, but what are you going to do with that 4.11?

 

[Stickboy]

how does selling it you if I don't need it sound
one solution I've come across though will require the 4.11 gear and utilize a speedo correction box to turn down the rpm heading to the speedo.
I think sor has 18 tooth (4.11) gears for $10 too. That's where I got my 16 tooth.
-mike

 

[patride71]

might be a dumb question, but is the speedo connection box the "thingy" the speedometer screws into on the back of the drive train? i am assuming that is what your referring to.
i think mine is in need of replacement, since i just replaced my speedo cable and my needle wobbles a lot now.

 

[Stickboy]

Yes the spot coming out of the t-case where the speedo cable goes in. you loosen the half moon washer and pull the aluminum housing out with the speedo gear inside it. the speedo gear is a small nylon gear that interfaces with the output shaft of the t-case. very easy swap, no need to drain the t-case either.

don't know if a wabbling needle is caused from a worn gear but seems like it could be.

HTH's
-mike

 

[patride71]

my speedometer went out again today. it was doing fine lately, not too wobbly as of late.

i took the 60 out on the tollway for the first time in a while, and definately the first time since i replaced the speedo cable. well it stopped working at some point during my trip.

didn't have time to pull the instument panel, but i did crawl under it and the cable is still connected underneath, but i did not unscrew it to see if any issues. also looked up to where the cable come down along next to the exhaust and it was not touching the exhaust, so it wasn't fried.

IF it appears the cable is fine, then would the conclusion be to replace the speedometer gear that connects to the xfer case?

 

[Stickboy]

What i'd do would be pull the cable of the back of the speedo and pull the cable off the t-case. Get a buddy to turn either end while you watch the other just to verify the cable is intact. At that point if it's intact pull the speedo gear out of the t-case and see what's going on. If it's worn down then you've got a problem, but I have a gear for you if need be for a good price. Let me know....
-mike

 

[patride71]

thanks mike,
i'll try that first.
i'll let you know if i need the gear or not.


patrick

 

[patride71]

well i got to get a new speedo cable again. for some reason the new one broke in 1/2.
i went ahead and pulled out the gear for it to see how it looked. looked ok to me, but here are a few pics of it for anyone that has pulled theirs might let me know if this looks "normal". also, anyone have a suggestion of where to pick up a new speedo cable other than jt outfitters? i got mine from them and will see if there is some type of warranty, but if not, i might shop it. it cost me about 28 bucks w/shipping last time.

 

[patride71]

anyone?

 

[60wag]

SO the new cable snapped in half.... Is the housing routed correctly with no sharp bends? If the cable housing is ok, maybe the speedo head is bound up. The gear looks fine. You could try installing the new cable but leave the end in the truck out of the speedo head. Drive around or jack up the rear end to confirm the cable is spinning, then check out the gauge.

 

[patride71]

yeah it basically broke in half, but the housing was ok. it did have some bends in it due to trying to keep it away from the exhaust. non of the bends were that sharp though. the only thing i can figure is maybe i didn't coat the cable with enough lubricant so it would spin freely in the housing. i guess i will try a better way of routing it too this time with as few bends as possible, but it is difficult since it basically drops down next to the exhaust when it comes out from under the floor board. not real easy to zip tie it to anything until it drops well below the exhaust....