Anybody replace thier speaker wires when installing a new HU/speakers? Or is it thought that the stock wire is fine?
Speaker wires (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SR.GRINGO
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I think the stock wire is fine as long as you are just using the head unit as the amp (not high powered external amp). It works for me...although I did run additional wire to tweeters that aren't factory.
Well IMO any aftermarket deck should be backed up with an external amp. You don't need anything fancy or expensive. The improvement is 10 fold with an external amp. If you are going to spend the time to put a new headunit in, put an amp in and run all new speaker wires. You don't need a fancy brand for the wires either but rope wound wire is a good choice for audio use.
C6H12O6
SILVER Star
I have one of Alpine's higher-end head units that is supposed to have a pretty good internal amp. It sounded ok with just deck power and stock wiring plugged into Infinity Kappa speakers. I recently installed a 10-year-old Alpine V12 amp and new wiring ~ all Monster Cable "Better" grade stuff ~ and the improvement is amazing. I'm still itching for a sub, but the sound is so much crisper and the mid-range so much tighter, it is astounding.
FWIW, with most people stashing an amp in the back PS cargo hold (like I did), decent wires are a must. The power lead alone is something like 22 feet from the battery. I ran 4 ga. wire from the battery with a 4 ga. ground and I really don't think it was overkill at all if you are using a decent amp. Expensive, but not overkill. Even the RCAs end up being long. I ran a single 4 channel, 5 meter, Monster Cable Interlink 401 cable to the 4channel amp and ran a separate 2 channel set for the impending sub so I wouldn't have to pull everything apart again. If you do it right and tuck the wires away so you don't really know they're there, you only want to do that job once.
FWIW, with most people stashing an amp in the back PS cargo hold (like I did), decent wires are a must. The power lead alone is something like 22 feet from the battery. I ran 4 ga. wire from the battery with a 4 ga. ground and I really don't think it was overkill at all if you are using a decent amp. Expensive, but not overkill. Even the RCAs end up being long. I ran a single 4 channel, 5 meter, Monster Cable Interlink 401 cable to the 4channel amp and ran a separate 2 channel set for the impending sub so I wouldn't have to pull everything apart again. If you do it right and tuck the wires away so you don't really know they're there, you only want to do that job once.
- Thread starter
- #5
Well I have more or less blown my cruiser fund. But lets say I do go ahead with an amp. The deck has two rca outs(rear is non fading)--I assume I can use the front out to power the 4 speakers and the rear out to power my Infinity Basslink. Some of the Amps below have a RCA pass through--not sure what the best way is. As far as power cable goes I'm covered---installed a 2/0 Welding cable to the rear compartment to a spare fuse block. I would just need to purchase 1 more shielded RCA cable. So here are the amps that would fit the budget---either I'm going to do this now or not do it---I hate installing this stuff and I don't trust anybody else to do a good job. Of the following amps which one would you buy and why?
Alpine MRP-F240$155 DELIVERED 40x4
Sony XM-4060GTX $135 DELIVERED 60x4
Kicker KX350.44 $153 DELIVERED 60x4
PIONEER Premier GM-6150F $139 delivered 60x4
Pioneer 6100F $125 delivered 60x4
Alpine MRP-F240$155 DELIVERED 40x4
Sony XM-4060GTX $135 DELIVERED 60x4
Kicker KX350.44 $153 DELIVERED 60x4
PIONEER Premier GM-6150F $139 delivered 60x4
Pioneer 6100F $125 delivered 60x4
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C6H12O6 said:
Can you share the route you took your wires? I have installed an amp before to get the dreaded speaker wine. I am planning a custom sub install for the stock sub panel and also a amp back there some where out of the way.
To avoid the wine in the speakers is it true you should run the power lead and the speaker/rca's away from each other? Is you power lead shielded?
Just would like to know where you ran the wires...thanks!
- Thread starter
- #7
I stuffed a 2/0 cable along with my shielded RCA patch cable along the drivers side under the plastic guide/carpet--there is no more room. I plan on stuffing new cables the same way but under the passenger side Plastic guide. With enough patience you could probably do it down the middle under the carpet---you would need a stiff wire to pull the cables.
I think that pretty much everyone has agreed that the first thing you do with your cruiser is switch out the suspension, but I feel the same way about the stereo. Completely gut that thing. Every wire, connector, screw, speaker.... I mean... the stereo was clearly an afterthought in the FJ80.
RCA pass throughs are fine. The less cables you have running from the front to the back of your rig, the less chance you'll pick up some noise.
I have some sony amps that are 8 years old and still rockin' out. Dunno about those other brands. I've found that sony is good for sound and longevity but they don't make the most powerful stuff. Personally I use sony amps for mids/highs, but for subs I go Rockford Fosgate.
RCA pass throughs are fine. The less cables you have running from the front to the back of your rig, the less chance you'll pick up some noise.
I have some sony amps that are 8 years old and still rockin' out. Dunno about those other brands. I've found that sony is good for sound and longevity but they don't make the most powerful stuff. Personally I use sony amps for mids/highs, but for subs I go Rockford Fosgate.
I'm pushing my speakers with an external amp with about 100watts so I replaced the wires with 12 gauge in the front and 14gauge in the rear.
Im running 10ga to all of my speakers. I use Diamond Audio components front and rear with 175 watts pushing them. I slit a small hole in the rubber connector between the body and the door then taped the speaker wire to a coat hanger and used it to guide it through the door and into the truck. It was pretty easy to do.
C6H12O6
SILVER Star
When I ran the wires, I pulled the rear seats and the rear carpet -- made things much easier. You will run into more of an issue running the power wire near the RCAs than running either with the speaker wires.
I ran the RCAs down the PS under the plastic cable channel under the carpet. I pulled the plastic b-pillar panel and ran the wires behind the seatbelt and back under the carpet. Then over the rear tire hump and into the rear cargo hold. I used some foam around the sharp metal as a bit of protection for abrasion.
I ran the 4 ga. power wire down the DS channel to the rear, behind the seatbelt as on the PS, then at the base of the back of the 2nd row seat floorboard. I taped the power wire down right to the lowermost corner of the floor where it starts to raise up to the height of the back of the rig. When I got to the PS, I ran the power wire at the base of the rear wheel hump along the floor to the cargo hold. Again, use some sort of protection for the sharp metal edge.
I just wired the 4 ga. right into my 4 ch. amp, but I'll use a distribution block when I wire up a sub amp.
Sorry I don't have pics. I wasn't thinking about posting it when I did the install.
I ran the RCAs down the PS under the plastic cable channel under the carpet. I pulled the plastic b-pillar panel and ran the wires behind the seatbelt and back under the carpet. Then over the rear tire hump and into the rear cargo hold. I used some foam around the sharp metal as a bit of protection for abrasion.
I ran the 4 ga. power wire down the DS channel to the rear, behind the seatbelt as on the PS, then at the base of the back of the 2nd row seat floorboard. I taped the power wire down right to the lowermost corner of the floor where it starts to raise up to the height of the back of the rig. When I got to the PS, I ran the power wire at the base of the rear wheel hump along the floor to the cargo hold. Again, use some sort of protection for the sharp metal edge.
I just wired the 4 ga. right into my 4 ch. amp, but I'll use a distribution block when I wire up a sub amp.
Sorry I don't have pics. I wasn't thinking about posting it when I did the install.
- Thread starter
- #12
Bear80--Thanks for promoting the amp idea. I just orderded an Alpine V12 75x4( the speakers are rated at 30 rms/40 rms..just thought I would be prepared to upgrade to componets someday
) I won't get it for about 6 weeks due to where I live--can't wait. Will get my new grab bar/tank for the air horn at the same time......
) I won't get it for about 6 weeks due to where I live--can't wait. Will get my new grab bar/tank for the air horn at the same time......
Well, now I gotta add another thing to the list...I think if I upgrade any more speakers I'll just HAVE to get an external amp. Oh well. Let us know how the install goes Sr. G!
SR.GRINGO said:Bear80--Thanks for promoting the amp idea. I just orderded an Alpine V12 75x4( the speakers are rated at 30 rms/40 rms..just thought I would be prepared to upgrade to componets someday
That's a great amp. You wont be dissapointed. I just bought my first 80 and I manage a car audio shop. So I'll be sure to keep the board posted about the system I put in. What deck did you go with? Planning on a sub? IF not you difinetly should. It doesn't have to be bowel shaking bass. Just a little 8" or something for that low end kick.
- Thread starter
- #15
Erratic said:
The deck is nothing special it is a pioneer premier DEH-P470MP--main reason for choosing was that I can hard wire my ipod and it is simple to use. It does not have a sub out so I am running the 2 sets of RCA's to the back right cubby---from there I will use the pre out on the amp to run an Infinity Basslink I already have. In the past 3 years I have had 3 different high end alpine decks and all had problems--the latest had a built in amp 60x4 with a motorized face plate--was neat but..... Will be interested in seeing what you do--isn't much space for speakers in the doors ended up with elipse 6.5" up front and 5.25" in the rear doors. At any rate it is better than what I had.
