Sound Proofing Rig (1 Viewer)

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Feb 19, 2004
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I read few posts about people sound proofing their Rigs. Does it really make that much of a differences. I think about sound proofing my rig this weekend.
 
well, keep reading their posts. how many times do they need to tell you the same thing? not trying to harp, but if someone with dynacrap or whatever it's called says twice it's good, do you really need them to type the same thing a third time? :flipoff2:
 
There are a bunch of posts on the 60/62 forum on this topic. The 60 series gets a lot quieter w/a little noise abatement. The 80 is already pretty good.
 
Junk said:
well, keep reading their posts. how many times do they need to tell you the same thing?
7
Junk said:
not trying to harp, but if someone with dynacrap or whatever it's called says twice it's good, do you really need them to type the same thing a third time?
YES :flipoff2:
 
Dynacrap is good!

See..these pics were when i was starting. No finished shots, sorry. Basically ended up covering the entire front floorboards, center console, and on the sides where the front wheels were noisy, then got the rear wheel wells covered.
 
And your overall impression when you were done? That s***e's expensive to be covering all that floor space if it's not a BIG improvement. I've been told there's a commercial roofing material that is exactly the same as dynamat but like 1/4 the price 'cause it doesn't say "dynamat" on it. I'll have to look into it further.

Ary
 
Yes i did notice a big difference. I also got the TRXUS MTRs, so that was just adding to the road noise. THe best thing is everything feels rock solid now. It totally eleminates any squeeks or creeks that might have been. You are right it's expensive, i just ran into a little cash so i went with it. Actually i was cleaning the carpets and got WAY over-board, next thing i knew only the driver's seat was in there. So i thought while i had it like that i might as well do it right.
 
Crete,

Any improvement in heat coming from the center console? Mine seems to get superhot on long trips.
 
Ary,

If you find out the name/source of the cheaper version of Dynomat, can you please post it up?
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
I've been told there's a commercial roofing material that is exactly the same as dynamat but like 1/4 the price 'cause it doesn't say "dynamat" on it. I'll have to look into it further.

Ary


Being the un-official 80's tech cheap skate I have posted the name

Peel & Seal

In every thread related to this topic, I picked up a 6"x25' roll at Lowes for ~$12.50 comes in at right at $1/sq-foot, I have heard it can e found for $.50-$.85 /sq-foot

It is not identical to Dynomat but it is similar and a suitable substitute, I have no idea how much of a difference in deadening there is between between the two


I do have a question, can this stuff be as effective if applied to the back of an interior panel instead? I see a lot of installs where parts such as the door covered, makes going back in for maintenance more difficult,

Could you get the same effect by placing it on back the inner door skin? That way no change in access, same for the rear panels, I drove around with the right rear panel out for a wile the increase in exhaust noise was dramatic
 
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A guy in Lone Star LC club, did the "Peel and Seal" or comparible from the DIY Center. I asked him how he likes it and he said it's quieter but he's had problems with it sticking well. When it gets hot it starts to peel off. I don't know any details about how he did his, but I was considering doing this but now I've got to re-think this. You might want to add some good adhesive spray like the 3M stuff before applying this stuff. I'ld like to do my entire inside, floors, doors, and roof.
 
RavenTai said:
I do have a question, can this stuff be as effective if applied to the back of an interior panel instead? I see a lot of installs where parts such as the door covered, makes going back in for maintenance more difficult,

Could you get the same effect by placing it on back the inner door skin? That way no change in access, same for the rear panels, I drove around with the right rear panel out for a wile the increase in exhaust noise was dramatic


Havn't done the LC yet but I did dynomat the inside of the rear door of a Pathfinder I had back in college and the diff. was dramatic. Of course I also had 4 18" Kicker PRO's in that rig powered by 2 Rockford Fos 1000's :cool: so the need for dynomat was kinda critical.
 
Safado said:
Yeah to hold the POS together with all that beat. :flipoff2:


It helped somewhat but in the end I was constantly retightening every bolt, nut, and screw on the damn truck :mad: . Isn't it funny the money we will spend at different points in our lives cause thats what were into. Cause when I look back at it the money I had in that system could have gone a long way in my 80. :doh: Oh well that beat was sweet. :cool:
 
Bryan Enoch said:
A guy in Lone Star LC club, did the "Peel and Seal" or comparible from the DIY Center. I asked him how he likes it and he said it's quieter but he's had problems with it sticking well. When it gets hot it starts to peel off. I don't know any details about how he did his, but I was considering doing this but now I've got to re-think this. You might want to add some good adhesive spray like the 3M stuff before applying this stuff. I'ld like to do my entire inside, floors, doors, and roof.


hmm maybe the peel & Seal should only be used only on the floor and something else on verticle surfaces? I would not bother with the roof not much noise comes from there, not much of a result for your time & money also raises the CG, probably not enough to make any real diffrence but combined with other things might be bad

not sure that the adhesive spray would stick to the tar
 
montelawrence said:
I read few posts about people sound proofing their Rigs. Does it really make that much of a differences. I think about sound proofing my rig this weekend.

I basically did the same thing as ConcreteJungle, but used Peel & Seal...not quite as dense as Dynamat, but a LOT cheaper...$33 for a 33' x 1' roll at a local roofing supply! It made a pretty big difference...new muffler was so noisy, I couldn't even hear the new header. After stripping out the interior walls/seats and lining the walls, wheel wells, bed, tranny, and up to the lower dash, it's a lot quieter. I haven't had any problems w/ it peeling off in the heat (I live in Tucson, AZ).

Check out www.b-quiet.com for more info on soundproofing. Ideally, you want to use a damper (the Peel & Seal is like a poor man's b-quiet extreme), which is an alphalt/rubber laminated to aluminum, then an acoustic foam like the v-comp/l-comp composite (I didn't use that...was too cheap to spend that kind of $$).

--Jim
 
Now i'm wanting to do the doors. After/while i install new speakers, but, as i began to look at the doors i'm not sure where to put the dynomat or the cheaper stuff? Should i stick it onto the plastic just behind the panel? I was thinking if i put it behind the plastic it's going to get wet from the rain/snow/ice and it may either peal away or begin to mold/mildew from the moisture. Just a little stumped on how to line the whole door to make it worth it, not just around the speaker. I'll do a little more investigating tonight.

To answer the heat question, i have noticed a lower level of heat around the center console. :cheers:
 

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